Got my cam ground by GR the other day, what a great guy!
Fitting it tomorrow, the cam retaining plate is slightly worn on the side it’s been running on and had by the witness marks been running on the other side at one point too. What is like to know is which was should it go or does it matter? Can or should I flip it over to the less worn side? What does the little hole in the plate do and which was should it go? No shims were previously fitted. Thanks.

_________________
1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

This has been discussed previously. See if this answers your question.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=96784

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Replace it. White metal one side and steel backing the other. Your in there, cheap part anyway!

_________________
1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

ditto, definitely replace that one...

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Sweet. Got engine plate on, cam in and gears on. Will set up cam timing with degree wheel then order cam plate and offset woodruff key of the right type. If I buy a new Cam plate then endfloat theoretically should be correct?

_________________
1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

How much was the reground Cam?

Mine was around $150 including the postage back to me from memory. I sent up a stock cam to be reground

_________________

Yep $150, I dropped it in to him though. $80 for followers reground.

_________________
1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

best to make sure the gears are aligned,,, don`t just whack a thrust plate in & tightene everything up,,, you should (at-least) straight-edge the gears to make sure they`re "in-line" with eachother

There are shims on the crank to pack-out the crank gear to suit the cam-gear position,,, add or reduce shims to aligne the gears

However,,, we prefer to trim the cam sproket to suit (in a lathe) ,,,--> both the abuttment to suit the alignment of the cam gears & then also the next shoulder to suit the thickness of the cam thrust , plus 3 or 4 thou for end-float.

this way there are no shims to break-up & fall out,,, sometimes people leave the shims on the crank when sending the crank for hardening & of course then the shims are way too brittle & can crack-up & fall out, leaving the front pulley loose & flog the key-way on the crank & pulley & you only find-out when the pulley comes out far enough to hit the cooling fan & by then it`s all too late, fan is busted, radiator may be smashed, front pulley ruined, crank-key-way stuffed & possibly the center main bearing shredded because the harmonics went hay-wire & ruined your main bearings too

if you`re not sure what to do here then please contact someone who knows what they`re doing to help you before you chew the side of the cam gears & stretch cam chains needlessly.
OK???

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks mate no probs, I'm a machinist so no problem there, thanks for the tip. This is my first mini rebuild so I'm learning new information all the time. Cheers

_________________
1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

Hey Guys,
I've got around to trying to time my cam, its a RE 266SS. He mentoined something about 106 lobe centres but I'm new to all this so it's a bit fuzzy. I set up TDC no1 with a dial indicator an put the poiner at zero on the degree wheel. Timing marks are lined up and head is on as per GR's instructions. All tappets set at 0.012", I rolled the engine round past TDC intake stroke and measured full lift and the degree wheel read 117 degrees after TDC. This cam is from the morris 1100 engine in my mini, GR mentioned something about when he ground the cam it was, for want of a better word, a bit retarded, don't know what the deal is there. So, am I doing it right? Do I just need an offset key to bring it back to 106 deg? Thanks

_________________
1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

I always take the degrees 5thou before (say 100) and then 5thou after (say 122) full lift and then split the difference (=111) to get an accurate measurement.
It might pay you to youtube cam timing to give you an idea as well, can be helpful seeing it.

_________________
1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Hi Ipal
The dial indicator should be on the valve cap not where you have it on the adjuster, if you have pollution gears it will be 6 to 8 deg retarded.
If your cam is that far retarded I would think you are a tooth out.
Graham russell

_________________
"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

Thanks Graham, I'll recheck everything again today. I remember you saying after you reground the cam that it seemed to be retarded a bit and may need an offset key.

Not sure if its a different profile cam being from the morris 1100 engine? Why would it be different?

If I was a tooth out, even though the marks seem lined up, how many degrees would that throw things out by?

Can you please confirm that I'm looking to get the cam on full lift 106 deg after TDC?

Thanks again

_________________
1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

HI hpal
Full lift is 106 atdc and one tooth is 18 deg.
Graham Russell

_________________
"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"