Thanks guys. I have checked the holes in the pushrod and they aren't too bad. I don't have any other pushrods and this one is all back together so it will have to do for now.

I have got everything tightened up this morning and attempted to bleed the system by myself. It still needs a proper bleed but it's looking OK. How much travel am I expected to get at the slave pushrod? There is no slop that I can see - as soon as the pedal is depressed there is movement at the slave

I had a quick spin around the block and it's working, apart from shifting down into second which is still a bit of a challenge.

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I reckon a bit less than an inch of travel to the top of the clutch lever is about right.

One that's worth checking (IMHO).... have someone floor the clutch pedal while you pull back the outer dust cover on the slave and make sure the slave piston is not reaching the C clip at the outer end of the slave....

Cheers, Ian

Help is still needed!

I’ve bled the system again this morning and no bubbles were coming through
The slave pushrod is moving from the first mm of the pedal travel
There is approx 20mm of movement at the slave
I am having a hard time selecting 2nd gear when down changing. 1-2 is ok, and using 3&4 is not a problem. No crunch into reverse. No drop to rpm when pushing the pedal down in neutral.

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20mm movement at the slave is as good as you can get. Everything from the pedal to the slave is working fine.

Thanks Brad.

My thoughts now are:
New clevis pin & new slave pushrod may have too much slop
2nd gear synchro has decided to die
Still air in the system?

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Have you pulled the Clutch arm and checked the wear on the ball end, the plunger hole, wear on the clevis pins, and oval shaped pivot holes?

I have not checked anything on the clutch arm yet but I will do.

What confuses me is that it all worked well prior to the pedal clevis pin falling out. Now that the clevis is back in, master and slave refurbished I thought it should at least be as good as it was before. That's why I was thinking its something to do with the parts I've replaced in the last week, but I may be entirely wrong!

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You are not wrong to suspect something to do with recent work...I wish more people would think that way instead of the old "but its just been completely done up, I even chromed the thingamebob!".

Sometimes, refurbishing can add problems if the parts used are wrong or a mistake has been made in the overhaul or reassembly...just saying, OK

Keep at it...

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"Show me the Mini!"

The fact that it goes into reverse without crunching kinda points to everything being OK, because it's usually the one that crunches first... 2nd gear does take a beating

Get someone to put their foot on the clutch and see if the big nuts in the middle of the clutch cover (the wok) are hard up against it - if there is any clearance then the clutch isn't going in as far as it can. If it's hard up against it, then the clutch pedal & hydraulics are doing everything they can and the issue is more sinister

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I’m trying to adjust my clutch too. I’ve replaced the slave cylinder & flexible pipe, bled the system, topped up the master, adjusted the big nuts to 1/8” gap, adjusted the stop to 20 thou. Now before I put the spring back on the clutch will disengage right at the bottom of the pedal travel but once the spring (& it’s the old one with limited tension!) on the clutch doesn’t disengage. Basically the same as it was with the original slave. Perhaps it’s time to replace the master. I presume it can’t be the clutch as surely it would be more inclined to slip if it was worn. I suppose it could be the release bearing but there’s no noise. Not sure where to go next!




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Basically the clutch slave cylinder can only push 20 mm; we have to set where this amount of movement starts and ends.
Starts:
First, the small 1/4"UNF screw is set to 20 thou (more or less isn't important - but must have some gap so the throw-out bearing isn't running in contact with the diaphragm).

Ends:
Screw the lock nut and stop-nut away from the clutch cover so they are out of the way.
Press the clutch pedal several times to allow it to adjust its range of travel. The pushrod should move about 20mm in and out if OK.
While the clutch pedal is down, screw the stopnut up to the clutch cover, release the pedal and turn stopnut 1 flat more.
Fit locknut.

It seems that when you've fitted the return spring it has added extra travel that the slave pushrod can't make up so doesn't quite disengage. Try making small adjustments of the 1/4" screw outwards - less clearance.
Then read 'simonw' comments.

Throw the big nuts away you don't need them !!!

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

New masters fitted including new Clevis pins and after a thorough bleed and another adjustments all is working fine thanks for advice - it feels like a different car!!


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Good to hear yours is working well now ARP1275


I had James and Phill have a look at my car and they both think there is still air in the system. We tried with and without the return spring but no difference. I measured the slave pushrod distance a bit more accurately and it's probably closer to 15mm than 20mm and the top of the pedal feels a bit spongy. I still have to check the first lot of suggestions and then I'll check the adjustment as suggested above. I discarded the lock nuts a few years ago as they came loose and wound their way in.

Unfortunately I left the 3/8" spanner on the slave cylinder bleeder and it may have fallen off driving down the highway

Getting to the clutch arm is a bit of a pain since I put the fresh air heater in

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Does you replacement slave cylinder have a seal spreader installed?