The original slave cylinder did have one and I reused it with the new seal kit

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An interesting afternoon..

I bled the slave again and no bubbles came through but it was still a bit spongy at the top of the travel.

I disconnected the slave from the flywheel housing, removed the rubber dust seal and pushrod to confirm the slave cylinder was moving as it should and it all looked ok.

I finally got up the courage to pull the heater out so that I could get to the clutch arm as it seemed a bit wobbly when wiggling from the top end with the slave disconnected.

The bottom clevis pin was worn enough to give a bit of slop. After much effort I removed the old one (you can still see the remains of the split pin in the clevis) and replaced it with a new one. It is super tight there now and there is no slop in the arm. The ball on the end of the clutch arm was a bit worn, but was the best looking one I had in the garage.


The pedal was is really good, better than it's ever been since I've had the car. By removing all the small amounts of wear in the system it's made a big difference overall. I also reinstalled some throw-out stop nuts

BUT 2nd gear still crunches when changing down

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can't tell you why it's started doing it now, but it sounds like it's time to learn to double-clutch...

clutch in, out of 3rd gear, clutch out and blip the throttle with the side of your foot, clutch back in, 2nd gear, clutch out, go

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

2nd gear had been been playing up very occasionally when trying to shift down too quickly. Perhaps the time I drove it finished off the synchro. It's been at least 25-30 years since this engine/gearbox went in the car so it's time may have been up

Now to learn how to double clutch!

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A constant mesh gearbox doesn't usually need double clutching. Just blip the throttle on down changes to give the synchro rings an easy time.

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

I had a problem with the clutch about 3 months ago everything was new , without going into great detail I made the slave cylinder push rod adjustable, fixed the problem best clutch ever, the length of the push rod was increased 14 mm.No other way to fix it.
Allen

Got to love the forum for knowledge, since I got my car the clutch was really low like pressing into the carpet low, have a search find this thread, first thing I check in the clevis thing and it had fallen out from the pedal. Now got a clutch that isn't in the carpet, it still feels a bit low so will have further investigation but so much better! Thanks Timmy and co!

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

Did you check the brake clevis while you were there?

The clutch system on a mini has many small wear points that can add up to make a big difference. Any wear on the lower clevis on the clutch arm & the ball on the end of the clutch arm especially so due to the leverage ratio.

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Yep double checked the brake one while I was there. Yes reading this thread it seems a few mm here and there certainly add up. Something to investigate later but nice to have a semi decent clutch pedal.

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I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

It easy to check whether a problem is being caused by a short push rod. Pull the slave rubber boot back so that you can see into the cylinder, have the magicians attractive assistant push the pedal to the floor. If the sleeve piston is now pressing on the Cclip at the outer end of the cylinder then lengthening the rod may help. Otherwise its not going to buy you anything.

It is possible that pushing the piston and seal further into the cylinder may help if the cylinder wall has localised pitting ..but probably not.

Cheers, Ian

I would like to overhaul my clutch slave cylinder.

Where can I buy the new internals? Namely the spring and black part with holes.

I have a NOS "black part with holes" but in translucent, and used ones as well, AFAIK you won't buy any new springs. Why not clean the one you have using a wire wheel?

The “seal spreader” was available from drmini a few years back, maybe he has some left

I reused the seal spreader and spring from the original slave

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Yes I do send me a PM.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is there any way to check if your clutch works with the engine out of the car? Tried to move rod by hand and it's a no go.