Is it a simple matter of removing the existing anti rattle device from the remote. Replace any worn/defective parts, add grease and screw the repaired one back in.
I’m assuming it is this simple.

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Yes. Too easy. But that's a minor spot that rattles.
The split top nylon bush above the gear lever must have daylight under it. Once it is touching the housing, the gear lever is loose and prone to rattle.
Mini Kingdom carries these bushes. Also the nylon one on bottom of lever.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have seen the spring under the nylon cup break as well, check that is ok too.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Thanks all.
We have replaced all the parts that hold the gearlever in place including the above mentioned parts. It was a massive improvement but we still had some noise so this is the next step.
Thanks for the advise.

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What i have done in the past is fit 2 O rings in the bottom where the plastic cup sits. It has worked for 2 cars now, a friend gave me the idea.
Rob D

Rob, are you saying to fit two O rings in with the spring under the cup ?
I fitted the new anti rattle device today and it is better.
We still get a vibration noise when you back off to change gears or when you rev the engine as the revs come back down. You can feel the gear lever go through a vibration period as it passes a particular rev band (no tachometer so I don’t know what revs).
Any other ideas ?

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Hi Phil
The 2 cars that i have done never had the springs fitted. I fitted a spring to a gt i owned and it still rattled so i removed the spring and fitted the o rings and it stopped the noise so i didn't it to the 2nd car and it worked for that as well. If you want im only in the Blue mountains and we can have a look at it if you want.
Rob D

The gear lever is a (big) tuning fork. With inherent power plant plant vibrations that get worse over time, anything resembling inherent frequency/s produced in the power plant will vibrate at that same frequency, or harmonics thereof.

Although not limited to the gear lever (other parts vibrating causing primary, secondary and tertiary harmonics), 'respondent' vibrating parts needs to be moved out of the 'calling' frequency range that cause these harmonics and subsequent frequency vibrations.

After doing all that has been suggested above with nylon C-washer and cup, try thick rubber sleeving on the gear lever. 3-5mm thick, and trial and error, length between 10-25mm. Move it to a point where the lever is no longer 'listening' to the frequency/s being produced.

You may also find that over time it needs to be moved up/down as vibrations and resultant frequency/s change. May not be aesthetically appealing, but it can work.

F

+ 1 for Hinesy1275 idea. Was going to suggest that the works rally minis often had a length of what looked like heater hose over the metal stick.
Also, the rear engine mount at the rear of the remote, when worn, can also allow extra movement as it receives a lot of engine movement. The quality of replacements is variable.

Thanks all. I might try the hose trick as it’s the simplest to fit.
If unsuccessful, I’ll try the O ring variant in place of the spring.

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Here's one I prepared earlier.... like about 20 years ago ... on the advice of an old and bold ex-BMC apprentice.

Its a Morris Minor front trunnion bush.

As mentioned by others... BMC added anti rattle rubber to the Works cars so you can bet "new" components didn't sort the problem...

The same trick works on a Quik-shift but you replace the bush with a custom length of heater hose...

Cheers, Ian