Hello All
Still got problems with the brakes everything is new or reconditioned. When you start the car the pedal is hard on, not me the pedal. I took the booster back and they said the piston in the booster was sticking they fixed it ,so I refitted the booster again same problem. I contacted them again and they said there was probably a line pressure valve in the master cylinder which should not be there .They send the master cylinder away to get reconditioned so they will fix it .I just have to take it out. FYI if you get the same problem ,Lucky the car is all sprayed with 2 pack no damage from brake fluid on firewall. Question my car has a spacer under the master cylinder about 1.6mm thick is that normal.
Allen

I feel your pain...I recently took a servo (booster) to two well respected shops only to be bitterly disappointed...reputations are fine, but businesses need to maintain a standard...

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"Show me the Mini!"

So you deal on reputation too

Ignoring the possible dig/personal attack...

Yes (in part), like any other "savvy" consumer (more like lamb to the slaughter in some cases), I ask around and take recommendations from people I respect (as opposed to some of the fake testimonials online) then draw a line of best fit...choose a business or individual...then cross fingers and hope for the best

Having said that, reputations are easily destroyed when the business or individual changes personnel, drops the ball or fails to deliver.

Problems can happen to the best of them but the good ones stick with it, sometimes rectifying the problem without additional payment "under warranty" whilst others do the blame game tap dance and try anything to get rid of you and "your" problem

Ya Dig

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"Show me the Mini!"

Have you tried it with the booster out of circuit, to prove the problem is in the booster? Just run a brake line from the master cylinder to the inlet to the T on the bulkhead. The brakes should work well, just a little more foot pressure on the pedal.

I doubt removing the spacer under the MC will make any difference. In my opinion the main function of this is to adjust the pedal height and stop the master cylinder rod bottoming out inside the bulk head where you fit the clevis pin.

I had a simular problem with brakes staying on and also fitted the spacer. Removed the spacer and problem went away. I just use a thin paper gasket these days. Cooper s master cylinder, vh44 brake booster, single circuit with 7.5 inch calipers is my set up

Hope this helps

Out of curiosity if it is on one wheel it is like a flexible brake hose fault

This Service Liaison Summary dated Aug 1969 mentions brake master cylinder spacers but doesn't seem to be applicable to your situation.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I am assuming you bled the brakes ok, or there would be no pedal at all. Starting the car will have NO impact on the master cylinder, only the vacuum on the booster. Disconnect the vacuum hose on the booster...... if no problems then it is your booster. Don't assume these morons know how to put it together. Probably made the same mistake the second time around

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Agree, booster only reduces pedal effort. Start off with basics, bleed brakes and make sure rears are adjusted and assembled correctly.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

an easy way to test if the booster is the issue is to start the car allow potential to pressurise the vacuum unit of the brake booster. if the pedal is hard then turn off car. then pull off the booster vacuum hose. if the brakes release then it's a booster problem. a bad diaphragm in the vac unit will hold pressure and not release. you need to make sure who is repairing it has a test jig to test operation. The company who i finally sent mine too to repair found the diaphragm was a couple mill thicker. my car also locked brakes. first problem. 2nd problem was staying on partially removed gasket under master cylinder no more problems.





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Good advice Kiwi...the other thing to look for with Servo's/Boosters is fluid pooling in the front cavity behind the Vac pipe entry (pinhole or tear in the diaphragm) and white exhaust smoke when the fluid is injected into the inlet manifold...

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"Show me the Mini!"

At the risk of getting yelled at, has it been hooked up the correct way, from master cylinder to back of booster cylinder body, out the front to wheel cylinders. Many many moons ago I applied for leading hands job at one of Better Brakes, was knocked back, was given to 'much more experienced person' was told to assist him on large lorry, watched as he hooked the booster up wrong way and got the result similar to you are talking about. When asked why I did not say anything, told them 'he was much more experienced'. Did not go down well, left shortly after of my own accord.

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1974 Leyland Clubman
Lots of good machines

Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.

This link may be of interest, care of the UK mk1 forum.
Covers the Lockheed booster as fitted to Mk1's, but the principles and fault finding would be similar for the PBR VH44 as fitted to the later Mk2's.

http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.u ... _servo.pdf

if you go to the how to section I posted a similar thing a while back on vh44 boosters.

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