Can anyone shed a bit of light on this addition to the gutter?
It has been spot welded in place then filled to blend in as part of the car.
Was it for extra mph or just a mod to say make the roof line nicer?

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71 MKII Cooper S

A drip rail is usually spot welded under the gutter along its length. Yours looks like a poor attempt at a replacement.



Be aware the UK drip rail is different in profile to the Oz version being almost flat but with a slight curve. Repro of the UK one is still available.

https://minikingdomonline.com.au/produc ... l-uk-mini/

In profile the OZ type has a pronounced kick-up then a flat outer edge which is folded under. I'm aware some people have tried to make the Oz type with various degrees of success. The problem is the very narrow edge that makes it difficult to fold in a standard metal folder.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

the people I've spoken to about it all say it wouldn't be doable with a folder, they can't bend that tight. You could bend the basic shape but would need a big press to get it all the way

It's likely that they were originally done using a roll-former. A long strip is pulled through a series of rollers that form the shape along its length then chop it off at the end

edit: I wonder whether the UK version can be modified to be closer to the Aus version using a bender to put that extra kick-up into it.

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I have one that is coming off my mini was going to just rip it off but sound like no one is making the Aus version is that correct.

correct - drill the spot welds out carefully.

michaelb says he's had success taking them off and putting them back on again. I took mine off last year and have them safely stashed for one day if I need to put them back on...

In an ideal world, I'd get the UK version, add the extra bend and then sikaflex them back on. I don't see any need to weld them on

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks for that sounds like that is the next job on my list wasn't to concerned about it as I saw them listed so thought I would just get new ones.

There is four welds on the upper side that appear to be doing nothing.
However there is a lot of spot welds running along the gutter holding the rail in place.
I will take some closer pics to check out the profile and post them
Thanks for the information
Cheers

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71 MKII Cooper S

Sounds like you have the original drip rail but someone felt it might fall off so has added welds.

Run your fingers under the edge of the drip rail. On the Oz one you will be able to feel the edge of the very narrow (a couple of mm's) turned over section along the length.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I have replaced the drip rails on my '66 mini due to excessive rust between it and gutters.
These were made at TAFE (when they let people do courses). I am not a trades person and have limited experience with panel work but it was not hard.
Use old strips for guidance: start with some flat strip;
-bend a 5mm return along one side - it will need to be dressed flat by reversing it in the blades of the brake (or by careful hammer but that leaves marks). This is the part some said was hard/ not possible but it was easy.

The "kickup" winabbey mentions is a shallow v-groove using a swaging jenny.
The full length is slightly bent to give the correct angle of the drip rail.
I made 2 shorter lengths of the same profile and used a "stretcher/shrinker" to get the turn-in at the front of the gutters and welded these to the long lengths for each side.
Rather than weld these to the underside of the gutter, I used auto glue to help stop water getting into the joint in future and give a nice seam filler.

Thx Bill B before I had the body blasted the drip edge and the roof seam were filled to give a seamless look
If I have a picture of it before blasting I will post it
Cheers

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71 MKII Cooper S

The strip of metal is a straight cut on the guillotine .Put the wide end under the folder clamping blade ,best to position center of clamping blade not ends ,make sure lifting blade is level or .5mm below blade rest. Fold to correct angle Easy JOB I have made 6 ,all fit like new .Sikaflex urethane is good to hold them on plus a tack of weld each end. My CS did not have them on from new and I have seen other minis the same. So I never fitted them on my CS. Material to use .5mm zinc coated steel use 240 grit to lightly sand the new strip where the urethane is going. The finished job will be sealed. Note they must be clamped in place as they need to curve to the shape of the turret .use spring clamps with some wooden dowels in the top channel ore double jaw VGs.
Allen

I would have thought a Mk2 S would have had the drip rail. My deluxe's had them and so have my clubmans.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Yes a bead roller is one tool I wish I had as it let me make just about all the panels that are needed to repair the rust and damage to a mini.

Scoop its a Mini ,the panel would have been left off in production and no one checked, the panel really doesn't do anything. I have seen other Minis without this panel. I could have easily put the strips on as I have done them before when rust is involved, but I decided not to fit them to my 1970 CS another way to recognize the car if it is stolen. A bead roller is a swaging machine or you can use a Jenny ,they fold up EASY in a good folder that can clamp correctly .8mm or .6 mm zinc coated steel.
Allen

Here is a couple of images of the drip edge. Yes it appears to be the same as the spec sheet above

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71 MKII Cooper S