No doubt this has been covered before, but would like to know if the 1.25" instruments (I like that word) can be re-bushed or is it just a case of new spindles? From my Youtube research, the fitting new spindles does not seem to fully cure air leakage due to wear to the aloominum (Yank video!) bodies. I also believe the teflon bushes are NLA.

Any help greatly appreciated.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Yes, you can rebush them. There is a guide here:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=87575

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I think off memory I got my rebuild kit from Sumidel here in Oz.

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TOO MANY MINIS AND NOT ENOUGH TIME

I can confirm that the SU Midel rebuild kits come with new bushes as well as new spindles. I haven't attempted a rebush, so I have the bushes left over somewhere...

Thanks for all the info guys & Mick especially for the "how to".
I'll try not to be such a lazy-arse next time and use the search facility

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Sometimes you can get away with not bushing the bodies as the shafts wear the most if your lucky.

SU Midel kit is CRK101 $149.90 for twin rebuild kit including new jets, which seems reasonable.

Hoping the dashpot chambers & pistons are OK. Only 50 years old so why am I worrying?

Cheers & beers.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Mick used a CRK101 from SU Midel.

The nice shiny rebuilt HS2’s are still on my shelf

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Luverly!

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Was stressing about re-bushing when I was about to maintain my carbies, but found some info online where one mini specialist advised that 99% of the time he just changed the shafts as they wear much faster than the body. Change the shafts only and the old ones were half worn through! Was able to tune the carbs and had them idling perfectly unlike when fitted with the badly worn shafts....

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

OK. May be a few weeks b4 I jump onto this. Plenty of wiring to sort out on the car first. The proverbial dog's breakfast.
I might experiment with the drilling for the bushes on some old carb bodies first to see how capable I am.

Thanks.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Most 1.25" Carbs I've rebuilt have not required bushes. In the 1.25" the bushing area where the throttle shaft runs through is generally the same cast material as the rest of the carb body as opposed to having a brass bush in there, so the shaft tends to wear before the "bushes". On the 1.5" and 1.75" carbs there is a brass bush in there that the throttle shaft runs on, brass on brass wears fairly evenly so if you have a worn shaft, you generally have worn bushes too. But quite often you can also get away with just replacing the shaft.

Cheers,

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-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

I'd be interested to come by and help ...or is that observe..I have feeling mine could do with a touch up.... so a little practice would be quite welcome.

Cheers, Ian

OK mate, how good are you with a drill press?

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - all painted up, ready for fit out.
1969 Cooper S Mk2 - claimed by 2nd. born
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Brand new or correctly sharpened drills so that lands are equal on both sides or a series of reamers...

Ensure item to be drilled/reamed is absolutely vertical in drill press or by hand...

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"Show me the Mini!"