Hi just finished replacing drum brakes on our 67 deluxe with disc brakes and the LH hand wheel is leaning out much more than the RH. Would anyone know why this may happen. Also can anyone tell me what is the standard ride height for the front and rear.

Drive the car round the block and then check it agaiin. Doesn't look like its settled after being jacked up.

I did a short run but nothing changed. I still need adjust the toe in before I go to far. The RH side front ride height is slightly higher than the left but it looks OK just the LH wheel is leaning. I have checked the donuts and trumpets and they seam to seated OK.

You didn't use metro hubs did you?

I bought a complete new set from our mechanic that specializes in minis. I am going to talk to him tomorrow. How can you tell the difference.

Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk

Ride height (vertical distance from hub centre to underside of front guard) is quoted as 336.54 +/- 6.4mm for standard minis;
312.7 +/- 6.4mm for 'S'.
You can run height wherever you please within limits, but both sides have to be the same and where you want it to be before measuring/comparing other alignment settings.

I don't think you have anything to be concerned about....

It's normal (standard) for them to have a little bit of positive camber, going by the angle of the lower control arm and driveshaft (nice colour by the way) it's sitting up quite high which makes for more positive camber

If the front wheels have toe in, when you go for a drive they try to push themselves together which makes the front sit higher.

The ideal suspension height is when the driveshafts are horizontal - measure your camber there

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Which one ?, there's another one hiding in there I see .

I meant the suspension arms, but yes, the blue car up the back is intriguing

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Hmm it appears to be hovering, I wonder what happens when it reaches 88mph

_________________
Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

not hovering, there's a bit of penrose steps action going on, ruler is actually huge

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Tried a few things but still no change with the left wheel having about about 3 time as much camber as the right. I Levelled the car as it was a bit all over the place, checked lower bushes, adjusted wheel alignment as it was towed out a fair bit but still the same. I still must have a bit of air in the brakes as I thought the disc brakes should be a lot better than the drum brake. Back brakes are adjusted up as far as I can go.

Unequal length suspension arms?
Brakes probably need new friction material on shoes...
Disk brakes a good idea on modern roads and driving "standards"...

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

As 9YaTaH suggested it is possible to have two different lengths of bottom arm as there are 1.5 negative bottom arms and one might have made it's way into your set, although that would cause negative camber (possibly on the other side?) rather than positive.

The other thought I had was that the castor bars or thier mounts on the subframe have been bent pulling the wheel forward and giving it more camber and castor.

Last option and hopefully not the case the subframe has been bent?

Oh disk brakes operate at higher pressure than drum brakes, so you will need to push the pedal harder without a booster this may lead to you feeling like there's less braking happening, have you sized the rear wheel cylinders appropriately? otherwise it'll lock the backs when you apply the brakes,I'd also check the brake master cylinder is appropriate. I you've done all these things then the search goes on...

_________________
---
Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Is there any way of telling the difference between the std and 1.5 degree negative camber control arms

Sent from my moto g(6) plus using Tapatalk