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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 4:29 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:36 pm
Posts: 608
Location: Bentleigh, Melbourne
" :lol: fark, glad you survived that one :shock: "

I think I got away with it because I was so scared sh%tless I didn't panic :lol:

Re adjustment,

I've ended up adjusting it so that the bonnet needs quite firm pressure to latch it and a fair bit of effort is needed to operate the release mechanism. The result is the bonnet is firmly shut (no rattle at all) but then again the spring is tightly compressed so it does "bounce" open when released. I really don't know if this is correct. One thing I do know, with airflow at speed, the safety lever on the RHS does nothing if the bonnet does unlatch..

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 6:27 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:04 pm
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Location: Melbourne, VIC
I wonder if fitting a stronger spring to the safety catch would be a worthwhile change?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:02 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 1146
deluxe67 wrote:
" :lol: fark, glad you survived that one :shock: "

I think I got away with it because I was so scared sh%tless I didn't panic :lol:

Re adjustment,

I've ended up adjusting it so that the bonnet needs quite firm pressure to latch it and a fair bit of effort is needed to operate the release mechanism. The result is the bonnet is firmly shut (no rattle at all) but then again the spring is tightly compressed so it does "bounce" open when released. I really don't know if this is correct. One thing I do know, with airflow at speed, the safety lever on the RHS does nothing if the bonnet does unlatch..


Something wrong with your safety latch. Some people bend them back so they don’t scratch the bonnet slam panel when you shut the lid....

The only way you ( as in what I’ve found) can adjust the safety catch is to bend the mount where it attaches to the bonnet. You shouldn’t be able to open the bonnet without sticking your finger in the push it out of the way. There’s way enough spring pressure to keep the hook under the slam panel when it’s adjusted properly.

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 7:00 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 12390
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
deluxe67 wrote:
The result is the bonnet is firmly shut (no rattle at all) but then again the spring is tightly compressed so it does "bounce" open when released. I really don't know if this is correct. One thing I do know, with airflow at speed, the safety lever on the RHS does nothing if the bonnet does unlatch..


The usually accepted way of opening a bonnet is to press the bonnet down, just above the badge, with the left hand and release the latch with your right...keep left hand on bonnet and gently allow it to pop up then gently push the secondary latch in before raising the bonnet.

Does your safety latch have a return spring on it?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
Posts: 15861
Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
1071 S wrote:
deluxe67 wrote:
" :lol: fark, glad you survived that one :shock: "

I think I got away with it because I was so scared sh%tless I didn't panic :lol:

Re adjustment,

I've ended up adjusting it so that the bonnet needs quite firm pressure to latch it and a fair bit of effort is needed to operate the release mechanism. The result is the bonnet is firmly shut (no rattle at all) but then again the spring is tightly compressed so it does "bounce" open when released. I really don't know if this is correct. One thing I do know, with airflow at speed, the safety lever on the RHS does nothing if the bonnet does unlatch..


Something wrong with your safety latch. Some people bend them back so they don’t scratch the bonnet slam panel when you shut the lid....

The only way you ( as in what I’ve found) can adjust the safety catch is to bend the mount where it attaches to the bonnet. You shouldn’t be able to open the bonnet without sticking your finger in the push it out of the way. There’s way enough spring pressure to keep the hook under the slam panel when it’s adjusted properly.

Cheers, Ian


I think he meant that when you're passing a truck at 140kph, if the bonnet pops up onto the safety catch then the safety catch isn't good enough to keep the bonnet from flying open... it might have even ripped the spot welds off the bonnet

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:08 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:36 pm
Posts: 608
Location: Bentleigh, Melbourne
"I think he meant that when you're passing a truck at 140kph, if the bonnet pops up onto the safety catch then the safety catch isn't good enough to keep the bonnet from flying open... it might have even ripped the spot welds off the bonnet"


Exactly.
If you are at speed or a on a bumpy road, the safety latch will not hold the bonnet. Airflow and bonnet movement will overcome the latch..

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 9:58 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 1146
"Exactly.
If you are at speed or a on a bumpy road, the safety latch will not hold the bonnet. Airflow and bonnet movement will overcome the latch...."

C$%p or, perhaps more politely, a very inaccurate statement.

While 50 years of neglect, collision damage, maladjustment ignorance can render the safety latch ineffective it will work perfectly if set up as God and Issi intended (a simple process). Provided the mount hasn't rusted, the spring is still effective (i.e. not seized solid so working as intended and pushing the stem of the latch onto the slam panel) then the hook in the end of the latch will not allow it to let go....

Collision damage may force it out of proper alignment (which is why race cars have straps) but wind or road surface irregularities won't.

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 12:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2016 12:43 pm
Posts: 330
Location: Brisbane north
Unless you are doing a concourse resto, I think they are a worthwhile addition. A mate of mine was chasing me down the Palmwoods range (Qld Sunshine coast hinterland) over 40 years ago in our Mk2 S's - he hit a pothole/bump and was driving blind with his bonnet obliterating his view. The catch didn't hold. Very scary for him on a twisty mountain road - managed to pull it up without hitting anything or going over the edge...... He fitted bonnet straps after that.
When I get to painting my current car, I wont be fitting them to the original bonnet. I will be running a louvered bonnet which I had on my original car and it has the holes already drilled for them.

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 3:38 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:36 pm
Posts: 608
Location: Bentleigh, Melbourne
"C$%p or, perhaps more politely, a very inaccurate statement."

Nice, whatever. You obviously know everything...

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..


Top
 Profile  
 
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