Hi All,

Looking for and tips/ideas on how to approach this??







As you can see, the rust is pretty bad along this side, and you can see there is a lot of rust between the drip rail and the roof lip by the non-straight underside of the drip rail.
The drivers side is good so I'd like to keep/replace the drip rail if possible.

Thanks

Someone with more body repair knowledge than me can comment on the rust removal and patching but be aware the Australian style drip rail is no longer available. You can get the UK style from the usual parts suppliers but it doesn't have the same profile as the Oz one. If you are not too fussed about originality the UK one will do and won't look out of place to the uninitiated.

https://minikingdomonline.com.au/produc ... l-uk-mini/

Edit: By drip rail I mean the long section that is welded under the channel, not the channel itself.

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Hi,

Yep thanks, I had done a search and found another thread about it, and how the Aus version is not available.
I'd be tempted to try making it myself just so it matches the other side, will definitely be an experiment though!

The rust repair on the actual roof channel is what I am more concerned about, I cant leave the car out in the rain without a puddle on the passenger floor at the moment!

Hi with the drip rail you can just remove them with no on going dramers i have 2 cars with them removed. Me being a welder the best thing to do is find a car that you can cut that section out and weld it in as you be hard pressed to find a nos panels.

The top and bottom drip rails will need to be replaced, the lower drip rail is easy to fold on a 6 ft folder, the roof section is also easy to fold, make sure the new top section tucks under the roof panel where you cut it off. I have done at lest 6 of this type of repair. All the rust must be removed to prevent further corrosion.
Note both drip rails can be made from 0.8mm steel ,easy to fold. You can probably replace just the area that has rusted and you may only need a vise or angle iron to bend it.
Allen

Allen I was of the impression there was a slight curve in them that needed to be done ???

Hi the panel that goes around the back quarter window where it is rusted from the top of the window to the drip rail......you may be in luck I was at mini kingdom last week and john has one genuine old stock one for the passenger side hanging on the wall in the shop and it's the last one so you may be in luck there
Regards shaun

yep Bill they are curved you just curve them as you fit them , or you can curve them using your hands and slightly bend them with one end on the ground. The best way to fit them is with body adhesive ,and the panel is held with vise grips and some small wooden packers on top of the drip rail. A tack with MIG each end is also advised. Small sections are easy to replace.
Allen

Have you looked at this thread for drip rails?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=98158&p=1042742&hilit=drip+rails#p1042742

If it's any help, I have a spare length of drip rail I made at TAFE. It is about 50mm short of the full length but will serve for repair sections.

Hi Bill,

Thanks yes I have seen that thread.
I'll keep in mind the section you have.
I'll remove the drip rail when I get a chance and see how bad it looks underneath and how much is salvage-able

I reckon that roof is a lot worse than just a drip rail... I'd be thinking about a finding replacement turret

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

"Just a flesh wound...."

Gutter repair sections could be made easily. Need access to welding gear and skills, though.
A turret replacement is a bit serious for the minor rust here.

Convertible?

Hi All,

I am close to in a position to actually start some of the repairs to this rust. I will try to make repair sections to the gutter myself.
The roof skin is ok all around.

I am just wondering if anyone knows what the cross section of this area looks like?
It looks like the gutter is actually part of the side panel and the roof skin sits on top?
Kinda like this:

Can anyone confirm or correct?

Thanks

That sketch is correct. The drip rail attaches under the gutter. It has a 10 mm return at the end to stiffen it and give a neat finish. There is also a swage to give a neat seam where the gutter and drip rail touch.