Hi All, having issues trying to remove the flywheel off a 998 A+ (Verto). The previous owner looks to have snapped a bolt in one of the three holes to attach the puller to on the flywheel.
Is there any other way to remove the flywheel apart from attempting to drill and use a bolt extractor?
I have an original Coxhead puller that worked well on my 850 engine.

see if you can move the bolt with a centrepunch?

I have removed flywheels by hitting the back of them through the starter motor hole...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

No-one seems to have much luck with screw extractors.
One method is to place a nut over the broken bolt and weld in the centre of the nut to the remnants of the bolt.
But you may not have much room around that broken one to fit a nut without damaging the springs.

If you can't get it out, you'll need to break two more off in the other holes, the balance must be completely stuffed like that.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

I would try bumping it off as Simon said. If that doesn't work I would undo all the bolts, remove what you can then light the oxy up. I had to do this once to cut an early flywheel hub off a 998 which had broken a rod, jammed the crank and friction welded the flywheel hub.
I saved the crank...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

meant to add - I did hold a block of wood against the flywheel and hit that with BFH

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

A big lump of copper or brass bar works better... it gives it a short sharp shock and is soft enough not to bruise the flywheel.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just a suggestion as I haven't pulled a Verto clutch apart.
Can't you just unbolt and separate the clutch spring/pressure plate assembly from the flywheel to give better access to the broken bolt?
Just thinking?????

Miniron

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

Do the tapped holes go right through? Can you just put a blunt drill behind the stud and have it unscrew itself out the back?

Thanks for the help and suggestions everyone, much appreciated. I'll tackle this tomorrow night and see how I go. I haven't read great things with screw/bolt extractors.
Thinking as the holes on the flywheel aren't that deep that I'll take the pressure plate off to give me a bit more room and attempt with a screwdriver/force/ to hopefully remove the broken bolt - I'm hoping it will budge.

Once you remove the clutch assembly to give a bit more room you may be able to grip the broken bolt with multigrips to loosen it.
Some WD40 on the broken bolt may help.
If WD40 doesn't work there is a Wurth product called "Rost Off Ice" which is a WD40 type penetrating oil product with a refrigerant which freezes the rusted parts and when they warm up again the penetrating oil is drawn into the rusted parts.

RonR

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

Update: removed bolt with little trouble. But having difficulties removing the flywheel. I've read that the verto's are more challenging than pre verto. This thing is not budging.

Hi 850, I removed & replaced the clutch in my 95 rover mini 1275 late last year to replace a leaking primary seal. Before you attempt to pull the clutch it is imperative that the crankshaft slot is set in the horizontal position . If you don`t the C washer can fall out internally and you will be in a world of pain. That being said the clutch almost welds itself to the crankshaft and takes a fair bit of force on the puller to remove. I removed mine (with the engine in the car) by tightening up the puller with a long breaker bar and leaving it overnight then in the morning releasing and tightening it several times until it finally broke loose. They break loose like a shotgun going off so don`t have your hands close by.

Another thing to watch on reassembly , make sure you torque the pressure plate to hub internal bolts to at least 50 ft lbs as no value is given in most workshop manuals.
Good luck ,it will come off . Cheers Phil.

the C-lock is retained in the recess in the back of the flywheel, it cant fall out until the flywheel has come off

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Yeah maybe . but I followed the instructions in a genuine UK Rover workshop manual and it worked well for me.