Just wondering what people think. The old 998 is rooted hardcore... the smoke doesnt subside even once its warmed up and instead of getting that rebuilt, i will be buying either one that is rebuilt already.
The legal issues about the 1275 worry me, as i wont be getting discs for a while; still running on the drums.
This is why i am leaning towards the 1100.

Will i notice much of an increase in power with the 1100?
Is running a 1275 really *that* risky?
I've heard the 1100s dont like to rev much. What does this mean, really?

What do you think.

Will.

1. Yes you will notice the difference, 1098 has more torque all the way up.

2. Risky only if they catch you... A MiniMatic I bought last year had a 1275 auto in it with a 99H engine number on..
PO ( a bushie mate of mine) did it so he wouldn't need to fit discs... but it survived being driven often at 90MPH+ without hitting anything. He had 12" wheels on front and 10s at the back.
As Bnicho said, there were some Mokes made with a 1275 and drums...

3. A 1098 will rev if you let it breathe. The stock single HS2 carb and peashooter exhaust system doesn't help.
Let's face it, MK2 and 2A 1098cc Sprites went pretty hard, and revved OK.
Put 2 HS2s on, a decent cam, LCB, and port the head- 7000 rpm is no problem.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah. The one i was looking at is bored 40tho (about 1150?) and has extractors. I might be using my HS4 if it needs new needles ill get them.
The exhaust system he said i can take with it as its pretty good and suited for the car.
The cam is ground mildly and is the original one, just ground.
He said its been rebuilt less than a year ago by himself and he can show me the reciepts if i want to see them. (i will).

I know its nothing compared to a 1275, but heck, a 1100 40 thou with mild cam and all that crap is gonna be so much better than my 998 with free smoke!
Oh and are there any signs i should look for while he's still got it in the donor car. Like smoke (if there is any i wont get it)
or any noises during the revs.
Im going there on friday (mini tech) to have a look at it and probably put down a deposit if it all goes good.

i dont want to sound like an old man bogun, but the reason you can't register a 1275 with drums comes down to power vs weight sort of thing. A worked 1098 could produce the same power as a 1275, therefore would in theory need discs for the same reason a 1275 would.....

On another note, doesn't Mr Vizard say the 998 revs the hardest of mini motors? why not work a 998?

40tho oversize is 1132cc.
if i were you i'd go the 1100, the one i have goes just about as good as a 1275, and costs a lot less if anything was to be replaced.

because and i quote
"nothing beats cubic centimetres"
so simple, yet so true



i drive an 1100 with extractors, a hs4 and a ported head and the front section of my car is 80% lighter than a standard morry/clubby. its fine for daily driving, but when saturday night comes around and i put my foot down and touch the floor, it just ain't a 1275. And that my friend sucks bullwinkle.

For what it's worth, Mr Hammill says a 1275 revs stronger than a 998 (which should not be taken over 7200 if you want it to last) and KC says a 1098 is better than a 998. So, you pays yer money and makes yer choice.

IMO, on the road, there is no substitute for cubic inches. A 1275 is better than a 1098 is better than a 998 is better than an 848... etc

And I've had 'em all over the last 40 years...

<edit> but a well prepped and bored 1098 is the next best thing to a 1275.. by that, I mean get better carbs than the stock HS4, and complement it with head, cam and exhaust work...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

geezus Kev, look at how many posts you have!! I never noticed that.

I'll take your word on the subject...old man.... 40 years experience.....

If I had the bux I would have a 1275 with Cooper S discs. I have no money so I have a 998 with drums....

can u get discs that are slotted and ventilated? that'd do wonders for cooling. sorry to go off the topic

Mine used to be a 998 with drums, before the 1310S transplant.. It was auto too. I know what you mean...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Dr Mini has forgotten more about minis than most of us know about them!

I've seen someone in Sydney selling reconditioned 1098's with around 70bhp outputs. They sell them as is with gear box and everything. Can't remember who but boy, sounds pretty good to me, 70bhp is better than 45bhp (not at the wheels of course).

I sounds like more economical than buying 1275 as they are getting rare and expensive by the looks of it...

I'm running a 40 thou over 1098 with 295 head, cam etc in the van. It keeps up with or beats a lot of near stock 1275s! I have driven another 1098 van with a 940 head etc and it killed Cooper S in a straight line.

Don't forget not all 1275s are equal. A stock Mini K 1098 puts out 50hp at the flywheel. A stock 1275LS puts out 55hp at the flywheel. Enuf said!

I chose to build an 1100 for several reasons:
- I had a few suitable for rebuilding laying around and no 1275s.
- I did not have the money to build a motor AND buy disks at the same time.
- I like the torque of a 1098 for daily driving.
- At Hay there are lots of cars in the 998 and 1275 classes, but comparatively few in the 1100cc class.

Having said all this, my Moke will be 1275 A+ Auto and my Traveller will be 1275 manual.

OT: On the engine number issue. It is easier to get a Cooper S motor passed without disks than other 1275cc, as they start with a 9. (9FSAY for Mk1, 9FXEY for Mk11) So most RWC inspectors think it is a 998cc....

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

I've got an 1132 (1098 +040") in the Clubbie, with a VERY ported 202 head- 31mm intakes and 27 exhausts. Chambers are 295 shape...
It's getting a 40DHLA carb once it's registered.

When I pocket the block and put a 12G1316 (with unleaded seats) on it in a few months time, this 202 head will probably be for sale....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ooo ooo!!! SHOTGUN!!

i want it when ur finished with it kev!...please?

hey i;m probably wrong, but arent drums able to stop better than discs (with race compond hoes, braided hoses etc) anyway? i know that discs stop straight and stop better once the drums start to fade, but i thought that drums could stop better in a single go......get me?

hey Big Kev, whats the lead replacement you use again and where did ya get it??

I have decided to keep my stocko 998 and drive it (lead gas guzzler) and build another engine (lead free).