Hi All,

I took the mini in last week for a pink slip check and it was knocked back due to "excessive play in steering rack".
So looks like I have the pleasure of replacing that.

Other points noted were worn CV joints, upper control arm bushes, wheel bearings.

I was just wondering if there are any other things worth doing while I have the front end apart?

I am planning on doing steering rack, wheel bearings, CVs, and the control arm bushes.
I did want to upgrade to discs on the front in the future but unfortunately dont have the funds for it right now...

Another question: I can't seem to find much mention of 'upper control arm'. Does it go by another name? What bushes do I need to get for this?

Thanks

Upper control arm has needle bearings not bushes. Seldom wear loose.
It holds the top ball joint, perhaps they mean that's loose?
If it is the top arm bearings, you can buy a repair kit from Karcraft, Minisport or elsewhere. It includes a new shaft, bearings and rubber seal rings.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

With all that (quite normal with time) wear its a wonder that the lower arm bushes are not included - along with the front tie rod bushes ....(unless recently replaced).

With them not being listed ... and being bushes unlike the top arm... I wonder if the inspector just had a minor mind f%^t .. or its typo on the report???

Worth checking before pulling the top arm apart...

Cheers, Ian

And check, adjust or replace the ball joints as required.

Hi All, Finally got around to stripping the front end today.

Plan is to replace wheel bearings, ball joints, lower arm bushes and tie rod bushes and the hub CV joint.
A few questions:

When I tried to pull the drive shaft out, the inner joint on the transmission (not sure what its called, inner CV?, pictured) fell apart with metal ball bearings falling out. Can this go back together or does it need replacing?





Second, what size socket/spanner do I need to undo the ball joints? I don't have anything large enough.

3rd - Any suggestions as to what to do with this?? Other than carefully drilling out?



4. I can only guess that when they said top bushes were split they mean the hydro boots? How can these be replaced? Do I need special equipment? I thought I had rubber cone suspension until today...



Thanks

"....When I tried to pull the drive shaft out, the inner joint on the transmission (not sure what its called, inner CV?, pictured) fell apart with metal ball bearings falling out. Can this go back together or does it need replacing?.."

This usually happens when you pull the joint apart... Clean all the bits, stick the balls back in with blobs of grease and slide it back together. If the balls are a bit loose you can wrap the inner section in a single sheet of kitchen wrap to hold it all together. The plastic will get chewed up and disappear in use...

"...Second, what size socket/spanner do I need to undo the ball joints? I don't have anything large enough..."

3/4" (I think)

"......3rd - Any suggestions as to what to do with this?? Other than carefully drilling out?.."

Its only a small retaining screw.... I have a "reverse" drill bit .. something like an "easy out" .... that makes short work of such jobs. You could look for one at a local tool shop....

"......4. I can only guess that when they said top bushes were split they mean the hydro boots? How can these be replaced? Do I need special equipment? I thought I had rubber cone suspension until today... "

Yes you can replace them... But they're only a dust excluder ... I would go back with a manual to show the inspector and hope you can convince him that they don't need replacing. Maybe give them a spray with tyre dressing to make them look a little less tacky??

If you can't then you will need to de-pressurise the hydro system, remove the upper arm and hydro strut, remove the ball joint... and THEN its a simple job of slipping off the boot and replacing it.

Cheer, Ian

Ball joint nuts are 11/16" AF spanner size.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

A deep socket might be a good investment. Fairly readily available and allows you to use a torque wrench when installing.

https://minisport.com.au/1-1a2-impact-socket-1a2-drive

https://minikingdomonline.com.au/produc ... heel-bolt/

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks for the replies.
I was thinking the same about getting a deep socket. From the links it seems the size I am after is the 1 1/2 inch to remove the ball joints from the hub.
Glad I can put the inner driveshaft joint back together!

Re my post above, to avoid confusion-
The actual ball joint body needs a 1-1/2" deep socket.
The nut holding the arm on is 11/16".

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeh thanks for that. I had the 11/16 for the top nut.
Cheers

Be careful with urethane bushes if you are spray painting .The brand new ones on my front tie rods are disintegrated and in pieces on the garage floor.

Hi All,

Just wondering if the drive flange should be a press fit into the front wheel bearings? Seems very tight going back in with new bearings.

Thanks

Often when removed, one bearing is jammed on the drive flange. It's a good idea to use a strip of 220 paper to polish any burrs or high spots off. The bearings should slide on easily.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks, I ended up getting the bearing race off and cleaned up the drive flange.

Now everything is back together and the steering feels all nice and tight and smooth.

I've aligned the wheels as best as I can according to the method in the repair manual (measuring distances between the wheels front and back) but will take it down to get it professionally done.

I took the car for a drive and there it a squealing sound coming from the front somewhere, sounds like the fan belt but its not.
I notice it especially when braking, but its there always. Also going over a painted bit of road like a speed bump its really noticeable.

I am hoping its just alignment as it does kind of sound like when you turn the wheels on a polished concrete surface.

Any ideas though?

I have greased all the new joints and bearings.

Thanks for all the help so far!