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 Post subject: clutch adustment cs 1970
PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:30 pm 
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998cc
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Hello All
I have about half a pedal clutch freeplay, is this ok I have an adjustable slave cylinder rod and when I extend the rod there seems to be no difference in the pedal. I have the other settings as per the workshop manual .I checked the how to do section and there is no info. Any ideas ? The clutch has done about 4000 kms
Allen


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 9:05 pm 
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extending the rod doesn't do anything - look for wear in any of the pins, MC and slave pushrods and the clutch pedal

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 10:33 pm 
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998cc
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all new pins ,minimal wear on components


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 11:46 pm 
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848cc
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Does the freeplay movement at the pedal move the slave cylinder?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 11:09 am 
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1275cc
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Has something suddenly changed since you got the car going?
Does the clutch work? Can you still select 1st & Reverse with engine running?
With a new clutch plate, full disengagement and take-up is very close to the floor so that most of the pedal travel seems unnecessary, which I think "Tim I" is getting at.

My recent rebuild has disengagement and take-up very close to the floor - removed a packing washer under the clutch m/c to gain move travel. I am expecting that the take-up position will gradually move away from the floor as the clutch plate wears.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 4:04 pm 
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998cc
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Thanks Bill
I can still drive the car ok I have to have the pedal all the way down to select 1st and reverse, I will check the packing washer
Allen


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2019 10:36 pm 
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And does it still have the return spring on the slave? I find they work better without it, and leaving it off also generally lifts the disengagement/engagement position up off the floor a little as it lets it be self adjusting... like a modern clutch :-)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 9:09 am 
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Is your clutch MC a 0.70 bore, or 0.75?
The 0.70 never did move enough fluid for a decent clutch feel. These were the big plastic tank ones...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 5:23 pm 
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998cc
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TY Doc I will check


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 7:55 am 
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Doc do you mean this clutch MC is the 0.70 bore one?

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 5:34 pm 
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998cc
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can you buy the 0.75


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 10:36 pm 
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Morbo28 wrote:
Doc do you mean this clutch MC is the 0.70 bore one?

Image

Yes.
Could be either a 0.70 or 0.75 MC in this style. Clutch and brake ones same inside except for the restrictor valve in top of brake ones. Toss that and it's a clutch MC.
Some 0.7 ones have .7 on the body.

Can't buy these new, but it's easy to get an old one sleeved with SS or brass.
Matt Read has new plastic tanks and caps.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:10 pm 
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Well bugger me, maybe that is the reason I had to make sure I have zero wear in my clutch linkages to get decent clutch feel (also the bearing wasn't completely standing off the plate)

Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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