Try uploading your images to the Ausmini server instead of PB. Plenty of space and no fees.

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=96873

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Just wanted to post an update in case anyone has a similar problem and comes across this post.

As I needed some other work doing, I ended up getting the car trailered to Minispares1275 who looked after her and got her legal for registration here in VIC. After some new spark plugs and a bit of a tune up, she kicked in to life and ran very well (apart from a little lack of fuel in the tank at one point!!). After getting her registered at VicRoads, I had a reoccurrence of failing to start in the carpark... Long story short, it looks like the carb is getting close to needing a rebuild at some point. Between that and the sticking choke cable, she was dropping too much fuel in and it was not having a good effect on the spark plugs. A clean of the plugs and being conscious of the choke has given me some good local runs in between lockdowns.

Now I just have to figure out why the oil light has started coming on despite being full of oil....

Is the oil light coming on at idle, or also when driving or reving?

I drove her to our new house a little while back and everything was fine until I pulled on to the driveway when suddenly the light came on, so once I got her in to the storage space I killed the engine.

I've since been back to see if I can figure it out or if there is anything obvious (like a loose wire). All looks fine and the dipstick says there is plenty of oil in there - though I am unsure how trustworthy this may be - so I tried firing her up again and the light went out as expected. However, after idling for a couple of minutes the light came back on so I killed the engine again.

Notes: I replaced the oil sensor last year with one from minisport as the connector had broken off on the old one.

Could be a faulty switch these days like most hydraulic brake light switches are.
I would fit another, or screw a cheap pressure gauge in there to test pressure.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do you know someone that would whip out there known working sender? if so you can drop it in yours and that should tell the story.

Unfortunately I don’t but I will put the feelers out to see if I can find anyone local.

The sensors aren’t expensive but I’d hate to buy another only for it to fail as quick as this one! A permanent gauge would be good too but I would still need a sensor and the light for roadworthys I presume!?

Are there any horror stories about the reliability of the 850 dipstick or anything? It’s just a metal stick with no rubber grommet or anything.

Dipstick should be fine.
Re: gauges, I always prefer the mechanical ones rather than the electronic ones, so no need for an extra sensor, and keep the original sensor for your dash light. You can pick up cheap ones from about $40 from SCA etc. Or duck down to your local auto wreckers and see if they've got 2nd hand one.

For what it's worth, I wouldn't be without a temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge in the mini.

Just another thought. Do you still have the old one with the broken tab? You could solder on a wire and then just setup a connection somehow, or even just someone to hold the terminal on the sender for you.

No, not required for roadworthy. Roadworthies are about safety, not about reliability



Put up a picture so we can see if anything is missing, but if it's the original then its been fine for 60 years, it'll be fine for years to come. They did change the design to make them seal better

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I was considering adding some gauges before this issue so now I think an oil pressure gauge has just become a necessity for peace of mind.


Unfortunately that went in the bin with the tab being broken.Thought I had fixed the issue with the new sensor... spoke too soon, perhaps!?

Here are some freshly taken snaps.

Over the weekend, I poured in the last of my spare oil (wasn’t much) and took her for a short run down the road and back. She ran well but the oil light still flickered on when I had the clutch down.

So, fresh oil, filter and new pressure sensor ordered. Plan is to drain the current oil to see how much is in, fill up with some fresh oil to eliminate low oil as a cause. Back up will be the new sensor and crossing my fingers that it’s nothing worse!

Had a similar issue with a newly rebuilt motor - car was fitted with a mechanical gauge - good pressure while running but almost no pressure when hot at idle.
Removed the oil pressure relief valve from the engine and found a big bit of shrapnel wedged between the valve and its seat. If the valve cannot seat properly there will be oil leaking back to the sump especially at idle and not going to the engine galleries, showing up as low oil pressure on the light.
Might be worth checking.
It is not likely that low oil level is causing the warning light to only come on at idle.



The pressure relief valve is the 15/16 inch nut where the screwdriver is pointing.
Under the nut is a spring and a bullet-shaped valve. Debris between the valve and its seat in the block can stop the valve from sealing off properly at low oil pressures, like at idle.

This sounds just like what I have been experiencing!! I'll give it a check this weekend before I go dumping any of the low km oil from the car for a fresh set.

Thanks for the advice Bill B