My Mini does not start and I realized the distributor was loose and probably turned a bit. I set the timing mark on the flywheel and took out the cap and it was pointing to no 4. I took out spark plug number 1 and turned over the engine for the rotor to point to approx 1 o’clock and there was no mark on the flywheel at this position the no 1 piston was at tdc. Did i put in the distributor the wrong way? Can I fix this so the mark on the flywheel would line up and the rotor would be at the correct position? I also installed a breakerless ignition can i still use a test light to set the static timing? How? The lught was always on when i connected it the conventional way with a points ignition. Need help please thanks

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1973 Clubman GT - YG2S8 1637

G'day
The manual shows this very well
Also have a look here
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=85848
You need to be certain that No1 is on its compression stroke not its exhaust stroke.
Cheers

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Cheers Dave.

Take off the rocker cover and rotate until cyl 4 (flywheel end) rockers are “on the rock” (meaning on the overlap. Exhaust closing, inlet opening; both arms moving simultaneously ) you are then quite close to tdc compression stroke on cyl #1. You should be able to see your timing marks on the flywheel.

Set the flywheel to tdc (indicated with 1|4 on older flywheels). Then install your distributor pointed at cyl 1 Post. If you can’t then the distributor drive needs to be aligned so it does. (A long 5/16?[cant remember exactly] bolt is good for this; there is a thread in the centre of the drive. Screw the bolt into this reasonably tight by hand. THEN remove the retaining boss and rotate the drive out (anti clockwise?) DO NOT DROP!!!!!!! If you drop it into the block you’re going to be pulling the motor out this is why you leave the boss in until you’re 100% ready to remove the drive. A+ doesn’t have the boss from memory.

You want it aligned in a / (diagonal) direction roughly pointed towards 2 o’clock remembering that the gear is helix so you will have to start it just past the 12 o’clock mark (roughly). The slot is offset from centre. If memory serves you want the offset towards the bottom. Once you’re happy install the boss, THEN remove the bolt from the centre of the drive. This will stop the drive coming out and causing you untold misery. You can’t really get it wrong but be sure to install it in the same angle the distributor tube runs. It won’t engage the gear unless it is square to the tube.

Then set the flywheel at your desired idle timing I.e. 8-10 degrees. You then align the points/ignition trigger (by rotating the distributor) to trigger at that exact point. Easier to see with a points distributor.

This is how to static time your distributor. You can then start it and set with a timing light (should be pretty close)

Note, distributor rotates anti clockwise (moving the distributor body clockwise will advance timing and vice versa) 1-3-4-2 firing order. Cyl 1 post should be the post to the right top (towards cyl 1 around the 1 - 2 o’clock position roughly when looking at it from in front of the car) if you have a vacuum advance on the distributor it should also point roughly to 2 o’clock.

If anything is incorrect can someone please point it out and I will amend this post. Don’t want to give misleading information.

Thank you so much, How do I static set the timing with a test light with a breaker less ignition (no points)

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1973 Clubman GT - YG2S8 1637

I’ve never worried about setting it static, just get it running and set the idle timing and check the total timing at +4000rpm

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Timmy’s right ...just set max advance at around 28deg at 4K+

Or... use the method I suggested in the 850 timing post to get it right at idle.

Both methods depend on having the correct advance curve built into the dizzie ...

One method I have used to set the static timing with an electronic ignition (a Piranha IR trigger) is to set your transistor radio (if you’re old enough to remember what that is beside the dizzie and tune is off station..so that you get an even static sound (allegedly the background radiation from the Big Bang;). Now twist the dizzie as you would with points; as the ignition trigger fires you will get a sharp burst of louder static....

Cheers, Ian

Still have not done this and get my car to at least start. Static timing on the GT is supposed to be at 8 or 4 degrees on the flywheel mark?

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1973 Clubman GT - YG2S8 1637

You don't need to be too precise to get them to startup. 0 - 10 deg BTDC static is ok to get it to fire up. I usually just get the engine at TDC No1 then point the rotor at the No1 lead and turn the dizzy a little bit clockwise.

A standard GT dizzy has a 15 deg mechanical advance which gives 30 deg at the crankshaft. A static timing of 5 deg BTDC will give you a max 35 deg BTDC at 7000rpm. It will probably start to ping around the 40 deg BTDC mark.

The 29D4 GT dizzy has a curve something like this - "These are Eng Rpms" and the 2 deg variance is probably freeplay in the dizzy.

650 rpm 0 - 2 deg,
830 rpm 4 - 8 deg,
1000 rpm 8 - 12 deg,
4000 rpm 18 - 22 deg,
7000 rpm 28 - 32 deg.

This is from the BMC drawing for the 29D4. Not the best quality but hopefully that values can be read.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43