I found this problem on a VH40 brake booster...original imperial would leak in the "metric" thread form the new stock comes with...fluid squirted out under pressure...

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"Show me the Mini!"

'slacko' is the Mini brake pipe guru.
If he says to check something I would double check it.

Slacko is correct

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Okie doke, so I’m getting the gmc227 m/c and fam7821 limiter valve and associate piping. Next question is with this combo what rear wheel cylinders should I have? The front brakes are 8.4” discs and spaced drums on the rear. I think it currently has 3/4” rear cylinders.

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

I've got the 3/4" rear cylinders and don't have any locking up issues.

Not sure about the fronts, I have 7.5" discs.

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67 Van, 1275cc

Nice, maybe I’ll be ok then, time will tell.

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

Hey mate, just seeing if you can remember or had any tips for how to wire in the brake test light. I’m going to have it come on as a test when the engine is cranking. I’m just not sure what type of switch it is ie N/O or N/C

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

Mine only comes on when the fluid level is low or if you take the cap off. Don't have it "test" when cranking/ignition on.

Can't remember the wiring off the top of my head but I can check over the weekend and let you know. I think it is normally open, and when the fluid level drops it closes the circuit triggering the light.

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67 Van, 1275cc

Thanks for that, I've nearly completed my wiring roughly, I may tidy it all up once the car is running and I've worked the bugs out, The brake fluid light is one of the last things electrically to do.

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

Hi Mark,
I've ordered all the necessary bits to convert to dual circuit, including a metric nut which I plan on putting on the rear brake pipe which will screw into the FAM7821 valve. Only problem is I'll have to cut the flare off to get the old nut off and new one on, I wonder how I can do that in the car? Not keen on taking the pipe out as it's caked in underbody deadener.

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1972 Mk3 Mini 1000, 1150cc supercharged.
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=95872

OK had a look today, and this looks like what I did.

Master cylinder cap has 2 wires - one of those goes to earth (mine had a brown and white wire, the brown goes to earth). The white then goes to one of the wires on the warning light, and the other wire from the warning light goes to the ignition/power source (mine is powered so it will light up only when the ignition is on).

This is the warning light i used - https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-mini-chro ... d/p/SL2644. Bright enough so you will notice it.

Once it is all wired up, you can just take the cap of the M/C with the ignition on and it should light up, and then go out once you screw it back in.

Any questions just shout out.

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67 Van, 1275cc