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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:45 pm 
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848cc
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Gee I feel like I am watching my own build again... deja vu right there.
Looks like my frame pics have really helped you. Good to see.
One thing I would probably do a little different if I did it again is make the rear cross brace go up and over the exhaust. Easier removal of the exhaust and also means the car can be lowered another inch or so and still achieve the required 100mm clearance.

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1988 Rover mini
Restored as a 97 Sport pack
Engine - Honda B16A (WIP)
ECU - Autronic SM4
Exhaust - Custom, TBA
Dash - Carbon fibre wrapped


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 6:28 pm 
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So today I was kicked off the hoist I was borrowing temporarily ( I’m not complaining) so I installed the subframe and put in the donuts and hilos and went to installed the hubs that I have so I could bolt the wheels on.. unfortunately either because the donuts are updated and new or because I made the lower sections of the subframe too high it was impossible to installed the hubs due to lack of clearance.. I temporarily got around it by unbolting the tie rod.. maybe when the engine is in it will provide enough clearance ? Otherwise I need to remake the lower arms further down to allow for lower arm sag

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:31 pm 
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If you have mounted the front tie rods in the original position then they will foul on the engine and the subframe. Some people have modified the sump to get the clearance from the engine but it will still hit the subframe arm unless the arm is lower. My tie rods have been mounted out further than original to clear the engine and assist with the sag clearance.
I then had to shorten my tie rods to fit accordingly and also made larger bump stops for the top arm to reduce the sag when the car goes over a bump or is in the air.

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Website: http://www.dutchysmini.com/
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1988 Rover mini
Restored as a 97 Sport pack
Engine - Honda B16A (WIP)
ECU - Autronic SM4
Exhaust - Custom, TBA
Dash - Carbon fibre wrapped


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:37 pm 
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Dutchy1978 wrote:
If you have mounted the front tie rods in the original position then they will foul on the engine and the subframe. Some people have modified the sump to get the clearance from the engine but it will still hit the subframe arm unless the arm is lower. My tie rods have been mounted out further than original to clear the engine and assist with the sag clearance.
I then had to shorten my tie rods to fit accordingly and also made larger bump stops for the top arm to reduce the sag when the car goes over a bump or is in the air.


Hmm ok.. how did you shorten them? I have adjustable ones and length doesn’t seem to be the issue.. I have put them in roughly even distances from the original position

Did you need a spring compressor to compress the donuts so you could get the hubs in? Or did you lower the bottom “arms” of the subframe ?

I’m considering remaking the lower arms of the subframe more like yours.. I made mine in about 3 prices but I notice yours were 4.. which also allows for it to be less vertical and become more horizontal as not to see the subframe as much from the outside of the vehicle


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:53 pm 
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I cut them and tapped them so they remained adjustable.
If they are the original length then you may struggle to get the caster settings right. We try to aim for positive caster. Mine is about 3 degrees. The longer tie rods would give you negative caster which is not ideal for handling.
I put the springs and top arm in first then put in the larger bump stop to fit the hub, lower arm and tie rod. There's a bit of a sequence to it.
Yes my lower arms are made of 4 pieces to keep it more out of site from the front view.

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Website: http://www.dutchysmini.com/
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/OLDSchoolMini/

1988 Rover mini
Restored as a 97 Sport pack
Engine - Honda B16A (WIP)
ECU - Autronic SM4
Exhaust - Custom, TBA
Dash - Carbon fibre wrapped


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 8:42 pm 
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I think the best way to fix you lower suspension setup from where it is would be to get the car in the air with the engine on it and lower bumpstops fittedto the upper arms, remove the lower frame rails and build new ones in there with the lower suspension arms in place. The distance between the balljoint mounts sould be setup to be about a half inch longer than the end to end measurements of the balljoints on the hub. Some allthreat should so the job nicely here.

Once thats all setup you should adjust the front tie bar mount if neccessary first - you want it to be in as far to the original location as possible, but still with a good half inch clearance between tie bar and sump.

Once that's in, you can fabricate your new lower arms to go around and under everything with suitable clearance.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 2:58 pm 
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Off topic but what is the car behind yours...with bonnet up?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 2:59 pm 
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Tonz wrote:
Off topic but what is the car behind yours...with bonnet up?


Thanks an MG magnette


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:31 pm 
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Its been a few months- have you got that frame sorted out yet?
Any progress?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:59 pm 
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I have decided to purchase an allspeed frame as my motivation in completing the current frame has disappeared, however, I may look at modifying it based on measurements from the allspeed frame.

On top of this I have been overseas for work for the last 4 months I do t see any major work happening for until late August

However I have received approval from my engineer to install a steel flip from on my mini, so that is exciting :)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 8:20 am 
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If you're that worried about finishing your frame then best to just order the allspeed one then. At least it'll be here by August so you can get the engine in your cat really quick.

Make sure you think through the flip front though. Thats heaps harder than doing the subframe.
If you dont have the time to make your own frame then doing a front end might not be a time saver you would otherwise think it is. That said, they are a handy feature worth the effort.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 2:47 pm 
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Harley wrote:
If you're that worried about finishing your frame then best to just order the allspeed one then. At least it'll be here by August so you can get the engine in your cat really quick.

Make sure you think through the flip front though. Thats heaps harder than doing the subframe.
If you dont have the time to make your own frame then doing a front end might not be a time saver you would otherwise think it is. That said, they are a handy feature worth the effort.


yeah the front end wont be easy but they look cool and are way easier for maintenance :)

i plan to use Audi80 boot hinges for it, and im looking into BMW bonnet catches.. need to check that out when i get back to adelaide


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 7:44 am 
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not much of an update since i havnt actually done any work.. and cant take any pics..

but my bonnet hinges and gas struts have arrived, i also bought an Alternator Bracket from minitec in the united states which arrived too

and this week i shall place my order for the Allspeed Frame, and should hopefully see that around the begining of July


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 8:11 am 
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_666_ wrote:
i also bought an Alternator Bracket from minitec in the united states which arrived too


There you go, something to cut and weld in the meantime till the frame turns up.
Once that frame arrives it'll all pick up then. :D


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