Ausmini
It is currently Sun Dec 08, 2019 9:11 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 324 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 18, 19, 20, 21, 22
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 5:24 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
Posts: 10586
Location: SE Melbourne
How do you get the speedo to work accurately when its cable driven?
Do you get the gauges re-calibrated or alter the drive pinion?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 6:31 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1405
Location: Armidale, NSW
Harley wrote:
How do you get the speedo to work accurately when its cable driven?
Do you get the gauges re-calibrated or alter the drive pinion?


I was able to get my gauges recalibrated, I'm not sure what they did but I suspect they are able to change gear set in the back or similar.

_________________
---
Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 12:35 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 11665
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
fuzzy-hair-man wrote:
I was able to get my gauges recalibrated, I'm not sure what they did but I suspect they are able to change gear set in the back or similar.


Look for a small gearbox between the speedo head and the drive cable...or down on the gearbox :idea:

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 1:29 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1405
Location: Armidale, NSW
9YaTaH wrote:
Look for a small gearbox between the speedo head and the drive cable...or down on the gearbox :idea:

It wasn't insanely expensive, but I can appreciate the diy aspect.

On the micra there is no small gearbox etc, the instrument place only had the gauges to work with but I suspect there may be small gears in the back of the cluster, there is a magnetic type wheel thing that works in there as well so perhaps they can adjust the air gap on that?
There's also the speedo drive gear that engages the diff, changing that will effect speedo output but there's probably a pretty limited range it would still engage and you'd have to find the gears.
But like I said I don't know.

_________________
---
Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 11:18 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 882
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
The real fun has started with me dealing with the Toyota Starlet wiring loom. I pulled all the loom tube and tape off everything and using the detailed wiring document that I made years ago, I marked each connector with electrical tape - green to keep; red to remove.
Image

Instead of just installing the entire loom in the Mini and leaving unused wiring in place, I wanted to remove everything that I won't need - Electronic suspension, fog lights, all Air-conditioning components/sensors/relays, rear demister, rear wiper/washer, power mirrors, power windows etc. Starting at each connector, I traced each wire back to it's source, making sure it wasn't used by something else and this is what I stripped out (roll of electrical tape included for size reference :) )
Image

Any wires that needed to be rejoined were done with the proper crimps
Image

...and using a cheap eBay de-pin tool, I also removed all the terminal pins from the connectors
Image

Just be aware that most connectors have a locking mechanism which has to be levered out before any pins can be removed
Image

After approx 12 hours of work, all the redundant wiring was removed from the cabin & engine bay looms in the Mini. I quickly found that there was not enough room in the engine bay to comfortably fit the main fuse box so I have decided that this will be relocated somewhere behind the dash and as such, a lot of re-routing of wiring will have to be done and plenty more hours work in store...
Image

I will also be adding wiring back into the loom for some gauges/sensors, dash lighting, stereo, central locking, power windows... and shortening/extending wiring for the modified positions of the alternator, battery, radiator, instrument cluster, ignition barrel.

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 12:14 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 882
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
Here's a small update for everyone ...

With the instrument cluster fitted in centre of the dash, I had to make a new cover for it as the cover on the factory item was just too bulky to fit in the Mini dash.
Image
I trimmed the black surround piece and sanded it down on my linisher to form a (relatively) flat surface instead of the curve in the above photo
Image
After a few MDF prototypes, I created a CAD (DXF) file for a local plastics company, I had them laser cut a piece of 2mm acrylic (perspex) laser cut to use as the replacement protective cover. I glued on some small acrylic tabs to this piece so that the cover could then screw onto to the the main cluster. The grommet in the acrylic piece is for the odometer reset pin - which I had to shorten to fit the new cover.
Image
With the cluster bolted into place, I marked and cut a small hole in the firewall for the speedo cable. The factory Toyota Starlet speedo cable was too long to fit in the Mini so I made a mockup and got a new one made. This new one was FAR more flexible than the old one - which had gone hard and near enough petrified into a fixed shaped curve!
Image
Thanks to the contour of the typical oval-shaped indent in the upper firewall/bulkhead, I couldn't use a standard grommet for the speedo cable. I instead machined up a tube that was welded in place
Image
...which could then use a standard grommet to seal it.
Image

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:55 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 882
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
One of the issues I'm sure we all face with our builds is having to repeat things. I've lost count the number of times I've had to scrap and remake something because of clearance issues, designing something better or just simply changed my mind. Here are two small things I've redone recently...

My original plan for the upper radiator hose was to include a coupler with a sensor adapter in it for a coolant temperature sensor in an aftermarket display. This meant that I needed three random pieces of radiator hose to hold it all together. Despite the hobbled together look once 6 hose clamps were fitted, it did the job.
Image
I've since found that one of the sensors in the thermostat housing area was used for the Toyota Starlet HVAC system (which has been removed). I decided to use this spare port for the aftermarket display sensor (so had no use for the coupler with a sensor adapter in it) and then had to remake the upper radiator hose. This was a simple task of getting some stainless steel tube with the same 22mm ID as the coolant engine outlet.

Some 1" OD tube was good but because it was thin wall, I had to make come collars to bump up the OD size to match the 28mm hose ID. As you can see, I also machined in some beads while I was there :)
Image
The collars were slipped on the ends of the tube, welded on and cleaned up
Image
Image

I luckily found a single radiator hose that I cut up to get the two bends I needed
Image
Image

Another change was to the horn. I wasn't happy with the tone of the single horn that came with my Starlet front cut so I got a pair of Hella discs horns and mounted them against the bulkhead at the back of the engine bay. The ground will be via the body mounted bracket and 12V connected into the wiring loom.
Image
Image

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Last edited by Mearcat on Tue Dec 03, 2019 10:23 am, edited 2 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 6:59 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 5497
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Fantastic fabrication work. It's a real credit to you. With those skills you belong in an automotive design and manufacturing organisation, or a major race team. :)

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 11:13 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2004 10:28 am
Posts: 2448
Location: Wollongong
very talented, looking forward to more updates!

_________________
Mini K, 993cc Turbo12v
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=31234

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 324 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 18, 19, 20, 21, 22

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.