Ausmini
It is currently Tue Nov 24, 2020 9:49 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 356 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 10:30 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:15 pm
Posts: 672
Location: Melbourne
Nice work there Mearcat. Great attention to detail as always, this is going to look great when finished.

Cheers
Madmorrie


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 2:07 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:01 am
Posts: 42
Location: Santiago, Chile
Mearcat wrote:
I completed the support bracket for the equalising driveshaft / layshaft today. The bracket pieces were laser cut from 10mm steel and their minimum charge, I got 3 sets cut - both of the spare sets have been pre-sold to Joe (blue_deluxe) and a local guy here in Perth - both doing the 4EFTE conversion!

The design was based on the one made by Slinkey (thanks! :D ). The two main pieces bolt onto the shaft itself; and rear of the engine block (where the alternator used to be).
Image

Image

Image


The top part of the larger piece was bent to clear the centre bolt hole in the smaller piece. My arc welder was cranked right up for the 10mm steel and it was all welded up with a couple of gussets for bracing.
Image

Next step - replace my front valance panel (current one is bashed up and bent to sh!t) and complete the subframe design.




Hi Mearcat, sorry to bother you, which car did you get the equalising layshaft?

thanks and cheers from Chile

Axel

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 11:12 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 907
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
clubman S wrote:
Hi Mearcat, sorry to bother you, which car did you get the equalising layshaft?
thanks and cheers from Chile
Axel

The equaliser shaft/layshafts are from a AE101 or AE111 Corolla/Levin with 4AGE engine. Of course, I have no idea how accessible those cars/parts are in Chile but good luck.

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 4:31 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:01 am
Posts: 42
Location: Santiago, Chile
Mearcat wrote:
clubman S wrote:
Hi Mearcat, sorry to bother you, which car did you get the equalising layshaft?
thanks and cheers from Chile
Axel

The equaliser shaft/layshafts are from a AE101 or AE111 Corolla/Levin with 4AGE engine. Of course, I have no idea how accessible those cars/parts are in Chile but good luck.

thanks!!!


brgds
AJ

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:39 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 907
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
Once again, here are a few updates form the last few months...

My focus is now on the interior of the Mini and I wanted to make a centre console to hide the gear shifter. Before that, I had to move the handbrake rearward as it was too close to the gear shifter assembly.
Image
I cut off the factory bent-steel mount and made a beefier one (with captive nuts) that won't eventually crack like a lot of mounts I've seen.
Image
This was stitch welded back on 50mm further back
Image

At 150mm wide, I purposely made the centre console as narrow as possible to maximise legroom. It was a basic design made from MDF and covered in a few layers of fibreglass to make the surface more resistant to knocks/dents.
Image
Image
For mounting the gear shifter boot, I made a frame that screws to the inside of the centre console. The boot will eventually screw into this frame
Image
In the console, I have a voltmeter, power window switches and a small plastic storage tray (from a Toyota Tacoma)
Image
The original plan was to have a cigarette lighter and USB outlets in the console but I didn't end up with enough room so I mounted them either side of the stereo.
Image

...and speaking of power windows, I bought a SPAL power window kit years ago and it was now time to install the motors. With one end of the motor mechanism attached to the window winder, the other end would fit nicely in the door skin opening and not interfere with the window glass or mechanism as the motor would sit directly below the 1/4 window in the door.
Image
I had to make a custom spacer to stop the handle adapter cog thing from moving back/forth on the winder shaft
Image
Image
Like most power window kits, they come with those triangular / cheese wedge brackets but I wanted something neater than self tapping screws into the door so some more custom brackets were made
Image
Mounted like this (screwed into rivnuts in the door) , apart from the winder handle that sticks out about 40mm, the rest of the power window mechanism only sits at most 5-6mm proud of the door skin and and no cutting of the door required.
Image

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Last edited by Mearcat on Fri Oct 02, 2020 9:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 1:38 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 907
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
This is a really short update but it's (another?) unique bit of work that I had to share as it turned out well. One of the issues with any engine conversion is dealing with potential differences in fuel tank level and the fuel level gauge. With the Mini fuel level sender providing a resistance range of 30 Ohms (full) and 290 Ohms (empty) it was nowhere near the same as the Toyota instrument that used a range of 4-114 Ohms. There are kits available like the Gauge Wizard from https://www.spiyda.com/ but a friend of mine told me about a solution he had successfully used in his Mini engine conversion years ago - replacing the rheostat in the fuel level sender with a custom circuit board and I considered this idea for my project.

Making the custom fuel sender circuit board was a relatively easy process - pull apart the factory sender rheostat, make some measurements
Image

Using a free PCB maker program called Circuitmaker, I copied the layout of the factory rheostat. The small custom board (37mm x 33mm) was designed to have twenty four 4.7 Ohm SMD resistors wired in series to get a ~5-113Ohm resistance range. It was a great way to solve the problem of mismatching ranges between the Mini and Toyota Starlet. I had a bare PCB milled and the board and realised that I'd screwed up the sweep angles so had to do it over again! Once the design was corrected and new boards milled, it was then screwed back onto the sender assembly
Image

Soldering the tiny 0805 size SMD resistors (2.0mm x 1.3mm each) to the circuit board was fiddly but once done, the board was screwed onto the sender assembly.
Image
Image

Testing showed that the range was pretty dang close to the Toyota instrument. I actually made two sender PCBs so I've got a spare.
Image
Image

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Last edited by Mearcat on Wed Jul 15, 2020 8:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 2:47 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 3698
Location: Wollongong, NSW
Nice doo-hickey thing there! Always like seeing how you solve problems like these

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 7:38 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 12128
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Nice work! 8)

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 9:47 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 907
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
It's time for some more inspiring interior work :)

For the door cards, I wanted to improve on the basic clip-in door cards and have some decent sized speakers (6.5") and an armrest and since I have removed the old rusty door bins I had more room to play with. One thing I didn't realise was that the door profile is not completely flat... so I cut a piece of 3mm melamine to the shape of the door card and nailed it to some plywood and glued some small wedges to the plywood to create this profile
Image

and marked the position of everything on the door
Image

I glued a MDF frame together for everything and covered it in spandex. The reason for the large area around the speaker enclosure is to hide the window winder shaft and power window mechanism.
Image

I used spandex as it tends to stretch better than fleece
Image

A layer of fibrelgass cloth was laid on the outside and inside (once the MDF frame was removed) and then a layer of resin and phenolic microballoons combo was put over everything and sanded back
Image

For the armrest, I made a plug and mold for it so that a plywood piece would be used as the armrest insert.
Image

With everything fibreglassed together and a coat of primer to get rid of the optical illusions caused by the spandex pattern, I got a better idea of the end result and the next step is to figure out how to mount the door card and to add some interior handles.
Image

If you thought a Project Binky bracket takes a long time to make, try doing all this fiddly cutting work, then fibreglassing in the middle of winter and having to wait for it to cure overnight every time you do any tiny piece of fibreglassing.

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2020 11:40 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 907
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
The custom doors are now finished...

The plywood armrest is held in place with insert nuts (normally used in furniture) in the arm rest piece - bolted from the underside / through the door card.
Image

To mount the door card onto the door, I used M4 rivnuts evenly spaced around the perimeter of the door. For the bottom area of the door I bent up multiple L-shaped brackets and with rivnuts already fitted, bolted them to a steel bar to keep everything aligned whilst they were welded on.
Image
Image

The height of the raised section of door card was made specifically to accommodate the factory Mini door opener handle w/ mounting bracket (without the plastic trim) so all I had to do was cut a correctly sized hole in the card.
Image

and a thin piece of rubber will be fitted behind the handle trim to stop any squeaking after it's final fitment.
Image

The last task was to add a grab handle insert but I needed to upholster the arm rest to know it's final height. I carved out a matching hole in the armrest plywood, covered it with some foam and charcoal coloured suede, using quality spray adhesive (3M Super 77) and staples to hold it in place. Having not done upholstery before, this unsurprisingly took me a couple of attempts with the foam & material wrapping to get it looking good.
Image
Image

The mounting bracket for the grab handle insert was copied from one of my other (late-model) cars
Image

So after all that, I had to repeat everything on the second door! Fibreglassing during the cold of winter slows things down so after about 2 1/2 months or work, the doors are done. Some fixes to pinholes and sanding still has to be done but not yet.
Image

This is a milestone, as it actually completes all the major custom interior work.

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2020 9:57 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 907
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
A lot of small items have been taking my time before I move onto the in-cabin wiring. So I'll run through the list :

Power antenna fitted in the passenger wheel arch
Image

Custom mount for high-mount LED brake light. This was from a bulky Narva unit which I pulled out the LED strip and installed in my own mount
Image

Image

Welded up all the non-necessary holes in the boot lid
Image

Installed new licence plate light and reverse camera
Image

Since I relocated the ignition barrel to the lower dash area, I made a blanking plate for the hole left in the steering column surround (which will be painted)
Image

Image

I always felt the Mini needs a proper dedicated reverse light instead of just the dual-filament globes in the indicators so I sourced a low profile, 80mm diameter LED lamp and made a custom steel mount for it in the boot lid
Image

Image

A boot light switch was added as I will be adding an extension wire off the interior dome/light power circuit to the boot so I can have an courtesy light illuminate when I open the boot
Image

While on the subject of lights, I ordered 2 new interior lights so the Mini will have a light on BOTH B-pillars in an attempt to provide 2 candles worth of light instead of one :P
Image

Rivnuts for side mirrors (from Rover Mini) were added to the doors and old hole welded up
Image

Image

Lastly, because I no longer have room for the fresh air duct for the cabin heater/fan, I made a cap to go over the hole up in the drivers side wheel arch. A simple steel cap with some neoprene foam on the inside it will seal the opening (held in place with small screw)
Image

Image

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 356 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 20, 21, 22, 23, 24

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 7 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.