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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2022 9:25 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
In regards to specifically engine conversions, I'm interested in what modifications you have done (or wish you had done) to make future repairs or parts replacement easier?

Personally I can see an issue with the upper suspension arm with most swaps. If it ever needs removing, the whole engine would have to come out to be able to remove the pivot shaft, as the engine / gearbox is in the way on both sides. This could potentially be solved by modifying the subframe to allow the pivot shaft to be removed rearward with some strategically placed access holes in the body.

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2022 8:14 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1488
Location: Armidale, NSW
The biggest issue I've seen in conversions would be don't build the engine supports from the suspension towers out then down to the castor bar / tie rod mounts at the front, the original frame takes its load at the bottom using metal in front and behind the driveshaft holes. Which brings my 2nd don't cut the front off the driveshaft holes, I realise these might not obviously make life easier indeed they could make it harder in the short term but in the long term it's going to be easier if the front doesn't fall off your mini. I've a couple of reports of conversion frames cracking them tearing the front bodywork away. I think / feel the benefits in handling are worth the weight and effort
At least put brace bars underneath the engine.

More inline with intent of the question, I didn't design it this way but after the subframe is out I can remove a tie bar and slide the engine off the transmission so I can work on the clutch or engine from the gearbox without removing the driveshafts and dropping the gearbox oil.

I decided that there was no way a clutch or anything else much involved was going to get done with the engine in the car so making the subframe easy to remove helps. I've remade my exhaust manifold to include a flange before the 2 into 1 merge that makes it much easier to remove the engine.
If fit the bolt through engine mounts rather than the current landrover mounts as they are much easier to align for fabrication.

Next frame I'd use round tube for some weight savings (hopefully) and perhaps better clearance particularly around my extractors, I used square as I wanted a sumpguard and square tube seemed to make this easier to mount, it didn't work out as nessicary in the end.

I ended up with fewer large strong bars when making my frame rather than more small bars I think this makes the engine easier to access and work on.

All I can think of for now.
Nissan Cg13de conversion BTW.

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A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss


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