Is it a reasonable assumption that if I get the gti motor, and a mini subframe, l (removed from the vehicle) I could line up the position of the cv's to be in same position as the mini's, then tilt the motor as it sits in the gti... then make the mounts to suit? all the bar work and mounts? Will it fit straight in? Very simplistic I know...
Or do I just remove the mini motor, sit the gti motor in cut stuff bend stuff till it fits? Friggin around alot.
I have noticed on a few subframes that the tie rods (or castor rods?)mounts are hard to see. do they remove them and add them last or something?

hmmmmm, sorry to say but this is going to be a little hard to line the suzi motor up, because of, the motor will not fit in. the gearbox will foul like crazy on the pass side of the subby, bottem rail part.. and the crank/sump will fould on the d side..

you will have to get the grinder out.. find the 2 towers, get some chalk, mark 1" toward the front of the subby, and go all out and cut the whole lot off!!!

its the ooooonly way..

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GTi Turbo'd mini, abused daily

ok.
so making the engine fit by using the cvs as the center point is the way to go?
tilting the motor also?

Motor essentialy has to sit max one inch to the right of the drivers side inner engine bay wing. Get it forward enough so that the water pump puller does not foul the suspension tower and that's about the only place it should go........You will find once you get it all in there it can really only go in one way.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Yeah not much different with the 4EFTE. Cut the front of the subframe off from the towers forward and then work from there. As for the tie rod mounts etc. You may want to think about making a jig, alot of effort but it will mean that everything remains positioned correctly relative to the rear frame even though you cut bits off everywhere. Just my 2c's...

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

I'd say ministar is on the money...

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Baracade
Relationships! The only time you get to sleep with the enemy!
1972 US Export Moke in Bundaberg QLD

Would be a real PITA to do this without a jig I think. Something really critical is keeping the tie rod mounts in the same position as stock. Even after getting everything tacked up in the jig I would still be going over the whole subframe with a tape measure and making sure it's still straight as per specs. Then prolly brace it all up so it doesn't warp during welding.

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Metal to burn, sparks to fly...

the main reason that I ask is that I want to get the motor delivered to my place of work,
We have a fab shed and it has an overhead crane. The idea is that the mini will be at home, I buy another subframe and make it all fit at work. Being a fab shop it has all the goodies for the install. a inch thick bench, more off cuts then I can poke a stick at. If I use your guidelines it sounds like I may need to tack it all together at work, bring the motor home remove the mini motor and trial fit with fingers crossed. Then remove it all again and fully weld it up at work.
Sounds like a plan to me

When fitting my 4EFTE I fitted the engine to the suframe out of the car lined up drive shafts as best as I could and took lots of measurements to make sure it will fit.
As minster said make a jig to hold tie bar mounts, I didn't but would have been soooo much easier if I had.

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Don't get me wrong I have never done this conversion, but I have done enough car modifications & fabrication work to know that it wont be as straight forward as that. I think you really need the vehicle, subframe & engine in the same place, simply because once you have the subframe done there will be pleny of "little things" that you will have to change, re-fabricate, move slightly etc etc etc.

I would be REALLY suprised if someone that has already done it can't back me up on this.

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Metal to burn, sparks to fly...

Metalfab, back in the mists of Ausmini there is a post by me whinging about how my subframe wouldn't go into the car (it was close but the mounting studs on the tower wouldn't got through the holes in the bulkhead. And this was with a jig. This was a dry subbie off another car and mine had wet. I fully agree. And as Brad said about mass produced ones they're all SUPPOSED to be interchangeable but Morris/BMC/Leyland tolerances are obviously bigger than mine.

I ended up cutting out the cross brace and rewelding with the subframe bolted in the car!

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Mano,

You are in Bris right? I have a roundnose front cut you can use if you like?

JC

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

JC, i'm keen to take you up on that offer. Just need to know exactly what I need for it i.e will just engine block and 'box suffice? Or should I work for something more complete? I'll catch you on msn no doubt.

thank you for the offer.. but I am in Newcastle.
will update profile

Basically what other people have said is the go, if you have not got a substantial jig
don't even think about trying to build a subframe.
The welding process tends to pull things out of shape & with a Mini where the tower bolts go up into the body this allinement is critical, even an 1/8in out & it won't fit back in the car, the front body mounts must also line up.

NOTICE TO ALL I WILL NOT BE BUILDING ANY MORE SUBFRAMES UNTIL MY OWN CAR IS FINNISHED & ON THE ROAD HOPEFULLY EARLY JAN 2006

Also a front cut is not suitable as a welding jig

BLUE

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Keep shiny side up