you could work out the mounts later, its just that I like to have as much clutter around me when I do this so that I know it will work. I hate doing jobs twice. Realistically it aint going to happen the first time, but fingers crossed.

Assuming you use that shell you have the m/c's you have will suffice. I do not believe the twin line is entirely necessary. Your engineer would shed some light.

I got a LINK ecu.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Why are the GTi mounts not ideal???

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Metal to burn, sparks to fly...

AFAIK they are expensive to replace. The front engine mount doesn't fit well in a Roundnose shell. I think that the rear gearbox mounts foul on the subframe crossmember and also the mount under the front of the gearbox (mk1) is pretty much useless IMO. BUT I am yet to install. That is what I can see from my motor and making measurements. Those listing of mounts are ones which I know work well. Thats not to say that you can't make the GTi ones work.

Well, I'm still collecting parts.. So far I have an engine, ecu and wiring loom... I intend to make a subframe myself, sort of a cross between all the different ways i've now seen people use.

I want to try to make my conversion easily reversable, so if I want to go back to an a series (i'm not sure why.. ) i always can..

My thoughts on the engine mounts is to utilise some of the tapped holes at the front and back of the block and mount it similar to the way there mounted in a vitara.. Then rig up something similar to the stabiliser bar in a mini, off the swift head or high up on the block to stop the engine rocking back and forth.. haven't thought of the gearbox mounts yet, any ideas?

Andrew

what is everyone doing for there ecu just standard
i dont even think i have one atm havent really had a good look at what i have down there

but i think that will be one of the last things i need to worry about im thinking about once i get it all running and in taking it to a suzuki specialist for tune and chip maybe or aftermarket ecu

still a little undecided about the gearbox but i think with a set of 12s the ratio shouldnty be too unbearable on the open road i mean i am used to a 998 four speed ffs

here are some pics of the mounts that i was told to use (they are cheap)

they look ok

do you guys know if there is a limit as to what size brakes you will need i mean is an engineer going to be looking for at least the 8.4inch discs for the gti convertion if so this throws 10inch wheels out the window though so too does the drive ratio with the suzuki box hmmm

how bad do 13inch wheels drive honestly i hear mixed replys

my 13inch wheeled mini keeps up with 10inch wheeled minis in the corners at wakefield park easy. It is alot more bumpier then running the 10's on the street. Lot less tyre roll due to smaller side wall helps, but some LOW minis do need alittle cutting on front guards.

My engineer said any naturally aspirated conversion, 7.5inch discs are fine, anything turbo will need ventialted discs.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

ok excellent thanks i still cant decide i dont mind cutting the arches if need be
i have allways thought 10s and 13s for round noses look best


bumpier mnnmnm i dont really mind i would rather go bigger wheels then change the gbox to a barina i think sounds like a little trouble

I know for a fact that the RTA says that I should have for my conversion....
A cat.. bceause its unleaded, and a restrictor type filler neck for the tank...
(but some engineers don't worry as you can't buy leaded petrol anymore)
Brakes need to be of the same design (solid, vented or drums) as the donor vehicle.
So if the gti had vented discs then you are supposed to have vented discs.
If the donor vehcile that the brakes come from (assume you use a camira/honda/METRO) then if they were boosted in operation, then the should also be boosted in operation for your vehcie.
But being engineers these are guidelines.
thats why engineers will ask that you do a brake test (where they heat them up and do repeated stops) so they can compare it to the origional brakes for the vehicle (the gti)
Doing it this way means that they may not need boosting or solid rotors are ok even though they were origionally vented (in some cases)
As for no cat, I think they get around this because the gti motors are very good for the day (say mk1 86) for smog control (without cat fitted) so they should pass.
It should be noted that some engineers do not bend the rules (My engineer will bend some but not others) so they are all subjective to what they feel comfortable with.

I am pretty sure that a dual circuit master cylinder is a requirement for a gti transplant in all cases.

thanks for that mate very helpfull

i am thinking vented 8.4s with dual circut and decent pad for the brakes

how tough are engineers as towards suspension i read somewhere that adjustable suspension was illegal so hi los are out which will be a pain

Animal in Toowoomba has had Honda accord disks blue plated. There are pics on here somewhere. I think he was using 12 or 13s on that vehicle. Disks were vented and about 9" diameter from memory.

This is what i'd be going with.

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Metal to burn, sparks to fly...

........until it's registered. I've never heard of adjustabubble suspension being a problem with the fuzz.

JC

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Pffft. If you can get a hold of him.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.