AAAARRRRGGG
Not good MM you must be devo, but set backs set the
stage for comebacks, take a deep breath and put the thinking cap on.
I would'nt mind a dollar for every spanner chucking, bucket mouthed
hissy fit i've chucked over my build
chin up
Cheers Hallsey

I wouldnt like to trust those little bolts with what is effectively all braking done on the front wheels. Which would be fairly considerable, esp with a safety margin.

I know youve said you dont like spacers, but what about a spacer between the disc and the other bit on the tarox discs?

_________________
Simplify and add lightness

I'd screw a spacer to either the rotor or the wheel. Then technically (in the eyes of many), it ain't a spacer..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Bugger!

I'd look at screwing a spacer like the doc said either between the alloy bell and rotor or on the outside facing surface between the drive flange and alloy bell or into the drive flange if that's easier?

What offset are your wheels? i'm surprised there is an issue with the 15" watanabes?

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

The caliper was fouling on the edge of the drive flange (much larger diameter than the Mini) and because the caliper body extends out past the flange itself it was going to hit the wheel centre. Note drawn in red drive flange.



Thanks for your help guys but I just don't like the idea of any kind of spacer. If I space the disc away from the drive flange, it runs off the machined bit which centralises it, and if I space it on the other side I am applying extra twisting force to those small screws (I was surprised how small they are too). As much as I like the brakes, I decided to look at other options. I initally thought I'd try a new disk with the Tarox caliper, but then figured I may as well try any caliper that would work and keep this kit complete to sell on. Anyone want a sexy set of brakes. Hardly used...

Back at that drawing board again, I tried to come up with a brake setup that required the minimum of machining, used stock parts, would work with the standard master cylinder and not have a limited pad selection. Opened it up to any caliper type, not just exotic ones, will be mainly day to day car so reliability and low maintenance probably rates over outright performance here. Oh, it also had to fit and not hit anything.

Soooo, after many hours of intesive web searching, DBA catalog reading and wrecking yard spannering.

Here is my solution. I hope it works.

1989 Hyundai Sonata discs (257mm) and 1991 Honda Civic calipers (49mm piston). Hopefully just need to machine down the 1100 drive flange to 140.7mm which will locate the disc (I had a go at this tonight on my lathe but these things are made of really hard stuff - will have to farm this out) and make up a hefty bracket to hold the caliper. This will add 10mm to the track but hopefully I can get away with it.

Some pics.







And Hallsey, I certainly know what you mean.
At least when I am done I will know that everything on this car is done the right way, because I did it the wrong way first!

Madmorrie

How do those calipers not hit on a mini wheel?
Or is the drive flange a lot shorter on yours?

_________________
Simplify and add lightness

Mini drive flange is much smaller diameter. I think they have been designed to occupy the space behind the spokes, where there us usually more room. My wheels have more room there too, just an inch further out from the centre.

Maybe we can ask TAROX for a larger diameter disc to suit? use the same alloy bell, and redo the caliper adapting bracket? This would push the caliper further out, clear the flange and sit in the part where the wheel has more room behind the spokes?

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Hey mate

Just a couple of questions.

With your rims did they just bolt on to the drive flange. I was wondering if the 1100 drive flange was of a standard stud patter for after market rims or if it was a specialty size.

Also would the Metro Turbo rotors and calipers bolt up to the 1100 swivel hubs or is there some sort of restriction.

Just trying to get some ideas together for the future.

Thanks alot
Matthew

_________________
You don't buy an Austin....You invest in one!!!!

Proud Owner of a 1971 Austin 1300 GT

Metro turbo just used 8.4" vented discs. So no real gain except a lot of unsprung rotating mass.

_________________
Simplify and add lightness

Hi,

I have sent an email to Tarox re the larger diameter rotors, but not holding my breath. I am having an 1100 drive flange machined down in diameter to fit my Sonata rotor over it, once this is done I will be able to mock it up to see if it will work.

The 1100 drive flange PCD is 114.3 (4.5 inches) and it is shared by quite a few other cars. Suzuki swift and Hyundai Excel, Lantra and Sonata, early FWD Mazda 323 and Lasers come to mind, I'm sure there are others. The trick is finding a wheel with the right FWD offset. Old Corollas and a bunch of Nissans will also fit but their rear-drive offset means the wheels hang out way to far.

As a last resort I will try metro turbo vented discs, they should bolt on, but they are only 10mm larger in diameter and finding calipers to fit will be tricky. The caliper bolt spacing is 82.55mm (3.25 inch) which is not shared by much, and you can't even space out the standard caliper, to clear a turned down metro discs, cause of the design.

I think if you are going to the trouble of finding new calipers you may as well fit a larger disc in there at the same time. I'm hoping to run the final setup unboosted for simplicity, but the engineer may require it in the end.

Cheers
Madmorrie

PS where are the pics of your GT?

Righto, time for a brake update. Been in contact with then engineer and he seemed to this that remaking the brake adapter was the best way out. He also offered to find a reasonable quote for me too. I worked out if I made the disc adapter the right depth it means the caliper adapter can be a flat piece, which makes one bit easier at least.

So I've finally found some time to mock them up the check my measurements. Went thru my dads piles of crap and turned up 4 13mm spacers which were pretty much on the money. So it seems 12.5mm is the magic number, this sits the disc centrally in the caliper.

Here are some pics of the setup bolted onto the car for the first time since they arrived.



[img]https://counterfeit.net.au/images/BrakeMockup_1[01]_LO.jpg[/img]

[img]https://counterfeit.net.au/images/BrakeMockup_1[02]_LO.jpg[/img]

Think I may need to upgrade the material specs for the caliper adapter, maybe redgum would be tougher...

So there you go, incremental progress, but progress nonetheless.

Madmorrie

Good news madmorrie
we'll be going for cruise's in no time

cheers Hallsey

Yep, nice looking brakes.

Yeah, redgum would probably be better, it will burn slower!

Can't wait for a 4efte vic cruise! I only hope my isn't worn out before then. I've been busy trying to drive the wheels off!

_________________
-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

OK, this thread is not entirely dead. I've been messing around making the caliper adapter mounts. The ones in the Tarox kit wouldn't work cause the 1100 has different caliper bolt spacing. I knew this when i bought it, but I was hoping everything else would fit. Well it hasn't, but with these made I can now get the other bit done and finally move on.


I designed it in illustrator, printed it out (checking the measurements) then with careful centre punching to get the holes in the right spots removed all the bits I didn't need. Did this 3 times with chopping board to refine the design then moved to 16mm alloy plate.

I'll let the pics do the talking...























They are done now, so I can get the main disc adapters made (not going to trust them to me feeble maching skills and 100 year old lathe).

Got a quote to get new axles made up, $350 each. He said just measure from the seal on the gearbox to the seal on the hub and he'll make them up. Sounds easy...
I made a fake shaft up to test for length, and they work out the same length so I'm glad some bits have worked out right first time.

Madmorrie