Quick Update:
Seems I am making a habit of putting a few hours on the weekends into The Cat, which of course is a very good thing.
With the boot space almost finished, I decided to move forward to the cabin and keep the electrical stuff happening as there is still a lot of it to do. But something kept ticking over in the back of my mind like I had forgotten something!! I ended up dragging out the box that all my WMI stuff was stored in and sure enough there it was - the water flow on/off solenoid!!
This valve opens when the pump starts and closes when the pump is off to maintain a) a positive head in the lines, and b) to ensure that there is no leak-back to the pump. Even though the solenoid is quite small by itself, it still has to be solidly mounted somewhere and not floating around to get damaged or kink the hard nylon water lines. I decided to make up a plate to mount the pump and the solenoid on, and then mount that plate to the existing mounting bosses welded onto the tank. This should allow me to orientate the pump and solenoid so they both fit and the hose runs are nice and unstressed.
First off was to cut a piece of 3mm alloy plate for the task, drill the holes for the solenoid and the pump. I ended up making a 90-degree angle bracket for the solenoid, and pop-riveting it to the base plate, as I didnt want to drag out the TIG for two tack welds, and this bracket was under no stress whatsoever. This is what it looked like when done:
Then simply a matter of mounting it to the tank with some 6mm bolts. I had to make another connection for the solenoid too. Because it actuates when the pump is on, and closes when the pump is off, it can have the same switching as the pump itself - so I just paralleled up the pump connnection and put a 2-pin connector on it, and then on the solenoid too so it was all finished.
While I was fluffing about in this area, I decided to fit off the tank outlet as well. Because the pump and solenoids use 1/4 click connectors, and the tank oulet is a barb fitting, I had to use some 8mm silicon hose and a brass barb to 1/4 connector to make the transition - but it should work just fine. Time will tell if the industrial grade silicon hose is methanol resistant.
Also in the WMI box of bits is the flow sensor - basically a turbine wheel in a housing that spins when the water flows through it and it triggers a hall sensor. The WMI controller I am using is a learning-type, constantly monitoring flow rates, MAP and boost levels to adjust the amount of water that is being sprayed into the manifold. It needs an array of sensors to do this, and one of those is the flow sensor. It has to be located close to the meter so I decided to instal it in the engine bay directly before the Y-connector in the water line. The wires will be run through the firewall in the same space as all the other specialist wiring goes through (boost solenoid, Digidash wiring etc)
Moving on from the WMI stuff, now essentially complete sans the new pump, I moved forward from the boot, into the cab. The rear bins is where the batteries are located - one for starting and running the car, and another for the ICE - isolated when the ignition is off, joined when the car is running so the batteries are charged - that way the starting battery will never get flattened by the amps etc. I needed to make up some ground leads for the negative side of both batteries, and join them to the body somehow - so I made up some 12" leads with lugs for this purpose (no pics).
Next on the agenda was the battery isolators that are located in each bin - one for each battery. For obvious reasons these cant be floating around in the bin area unsecured, so I decided to make up some brackets for these isolator swicthes. Out with the 3mm alloy again and after some drilling and bendind, these are what I had:
They simply screw down to the bottom flange of the bins, and the isolators get mounted to them with some 5mm socket head bolts. By this time it was getting late and the battery drill was flat, so I will mount them next time and take some more pics to show you what it looks like.
Cheers,
Tricky