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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:29 pm 
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998cc
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Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
Gordo wrote:
How much if you dont mind me asking?

I know you can get a Perma-Cool kit (includes bypass fitting, filter mount, hose, fittings, clamps) for around $150. One of my mates got a Speco relocation kit from Autobahn a few years ago for $100.

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject: relocation kit
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:23 pm
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
unfortunately the earls gear aint real cheap! You can get cheaper - cast - earls bits. Mine cost about 150 bucks, with no fittings.. Fittings and hoses are gonna be about the same amount again..

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:14 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
Im all about it looking good and working as it should! Earls gear has a great name

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:49 am 
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Location: Wyndham Green, Vic!
Yeah, I got an earls kit with lines (not braided) and all fittings and I think it was around the $250 mark delivered to Kalgoorlie, WA a few years ago.

Not cheap, but everything fit together perfectly and I haven't had any issues at all after almost 17 months on the road so far. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:00 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
What earls lines do people use?
Im thinking of doing cooling, oil and fuel in the prolite 350 from earls. Just got to check with the engineer when i see him.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:15 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
I'll be using the black "super stock" hose. I f'n hate the braided lines - way too much rice! The guys i'm getting my gear from either use super stock or braided.

I wouldn't imagine any issues with compliance, but i'm having a visit from my engineer soon and can run it past him.

As for the fittings (which commonly come in shite blue and red), there are also available MIL spec "ano tuff" black anodised fittings which look reasonable. The guys i've bought from also said that if you want to get rid of the anodising colour to just drop the fittings in draino..

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:18 pm 
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Thats crazy, someone else who hates the ricy bling of steel braided hose and the gay bright red and blue.

I like the prolite because its a black hose (a bit like the hose from the subframe to the brakes on a standard mini) and its still resistant to oil and fuel.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 11:31 am 
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blue_deluxe wrote:
Thats crazy, someone else who hates the ricy bling of steel braided hose and the I'm a closet homosexual bright red and blue.

I'll second that Joe! I'm specifically not getting Earls gear BECAUSE it's only available in blue & red. I was going to head to Enzed or similar for standard brass fittings.

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 8:43 am 
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998cc
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Location: Wyndham Green, Vic!
I have the super stock black rubber hoses, but as said red / blue fittings.

Image

[I actually like the look of the ano fittings against the machined alloy components & black hose, they match my rice blue silicone intercooler hoses! :oops: ]

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:19 pm 
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
I certainly didn't mean to offend anyone with my opinion! Cos that's all it is - an opinion.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:18 am 
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998cc
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Don't worry about offending anyone here.

Any jap conversion is going to be more ricey than an A Series whatever colour your fittings. 8) It's not necessarily a bad thing unless you fit a 5" exhaust tip, bad body kit and drift wing. :roll:
I say embrace the good side of JDM tuning, like big turbos, deep dish wheels and ghetto style track weapons:

Image


I don't think you said anything anyone would find offensive anyway! :wink:

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 Post subject: Rear right quarter
PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:33 pm 
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Finally after about 20 hours of work i've managed to fix the big rust hole in my rear right quarter... Unfortunately it's not the last of the rust, but i'ts progress all the same. Still gotta do some clean up as there are weld beads that are going to foul some bits and pieces. Thankfully most of this will actually be hidden by my flares at the end of it all anyway...

Here are a few pics, now it's on the replacing the beaver panel and fixing a few other cancerous areas!

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Image

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:44 am 
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Nice job, well done!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 9:46 pm 
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Hey all.... it's been a while.

Yet another few questions. Does anyone know how much flare is going to be required to cover a 6" wide wheel with +12 offset?

Secondly, my engineer suggested that a late '70's clubman S (circa 78) had a smaller steering wheel. Can anyone confirm this? If so, any ideas on what diameter it was?

Cheers!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 1:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 11:47 am
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Location: Perth, WA
i have 12x6 mambas with a fairly positive offset.

the tyres hang out 2.5" - 3" and im using group 6 (group 2 wide) arches from huddersfield minispares. they cover the tyres perfectly.

i measured the track with vented disks today with the car at its lowest point and got 1340mm.. i think if i were to raise the car the track wouldnt be so wide.

im not sure if all this will help you out at all but extra info is always handy.


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