man, you just gotta do whatever posible to fit those wheels under.
They are awesome
I'm keen as to see pics once they are fitted.
SSR make awesome wheels

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

wow. i just looked up on SSR's website to see if they make any wheels in 10" and look what i found
they come in either 6 or 6.5" wide


http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/fl2.asp

Sorry for hijacking your thread , i just thought i'd spread around the SSR love.

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

Nice one... yeah there isn't much chance of me not using the SSR wheels - I love em.... They remind me of the Simmons wheels i was in love with as a teenager!

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So here is the dash for those interested... Smiths Gauges, Burr walnut dash from minispares and a bit of laser cut brushed stainless... I'm still yet to glue the stainless plate in place - any suggestions on what to use? I've got some sikaflex but haven't had a lot of luck with that in the past...

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SO... I had to go fish out this thread as its been a while since i've posted. So long, i can't remember what i've done since last posting...

So here is the finished roll cage anyway..



I'm pretty sure i've achieved more than this, but I can't remember what!!

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actually ordered a set for my triumph spitfire. just love the period look they bring to the car when everyone else has minilites (triumph people are fairly unimaginitive..)

Did a bit of flare work in the past few days. This is how the rear looks (a bit ridiculous with the old wheels!). Anyone that has put these on before, how do you prevent the gap from the body work at the front? I've installed these with as little residual stress as possible, i.e. they basically fall on.



Is this gap meant to exist?

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the guard should have a gap in it that fits over the seam so you shouldn't have that gap.

looks to me like the flare needs to twist under. so either the top against the body needs to come out, or the bottom needs to have some taken off it so that it will roll in and sit flush against the body at the bottom .
If that makes sense

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850

hmmm... bugger. All 4 of them have done it varying in degree from the one pictured to a slight gap. Probably cos they're made for the Rover (I'm guessing?).

Not sure what to do. Looks and fits sweet everywhere except for where it joins back to the bottom seam.

I don't really want to stress them as i think this will only make the paint crack once they're painted. Maybe i have no choice and need to put an additional bolt through this point....

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Amos,

Just sikaflex them in place, with clamps to hold them there every couple of inches.
They will conform to the shape of the car!!!

Something like this:




You can just see the black sikaflex oozing out the top and bottom of the arches. It's not hard to do, just test fit first, mark them off on the body work, and when you are happy with them, glue them on!

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Fibreglass can be a frustrating thing to work with because it can twist & warp over time if not held in a rigid form, which for flares & body kit pieces is a common thing (there is quite often some work involved in getting them fitted right). Sikaflex 291 is a godsend.

On a bigger scale, I've seen a one piece FRP car body warp so much that they had to cut and re-glass sections up to 15-20mm in some body areas, but that's a whole car body.

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

Hi Amos
I had to manipulate (file) my ones ,especially the front ones
being a clubman

On all four i also put a screw underneath to hold it in place and if i'm
not mistaken there is a impression on the arch where to drill

Heres some pics of mine hope this helps







Cheers Hallsey

I was thinking i would make it so they would bolt on after the body work was complete, but there really is not any need to get them off again - so maybe it will be a sikaflex job!

Cheers.

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sort your panel work out before you trial fit your flares anyway. if you get them right now and then have to bog up the rear 1/4s or something youl be in trouble when you fit the car back together. as said above just cut the little groove out so that it fits over the seam properly. sikaflex is good for sticking stuff on but god help you if you damage a flare and want to remove it without ruining the paint on the gaurd. also arent they bolted from the factory? theres a car in the members mini gallery which is the "1275 ls conversion project" have a look how he fitted his flares. theyre bolted on, and look mint.

cheers

sean