Yep talking about turbo manifolds thin walled stainless ones seem to last for a reasonable amount of time but mild steel ones don't. There is too much heat the manifolds glow red hot very quickly and the constant heating and cooling cracks them doesn't matter if the weight of the turbo is on them or not.

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Any reasons why the stainless ones don't do it? Just don't understand from a materials perspective why the SS would outlast the MS ones.

Because i can make the manifold for SFA (cost of a few bends and a couple of laser cut flanges) i'll probably give the 1.6 a go. A good mate of mine made one for a datto out of 1.6 and hasn't had any issues.

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Answer the Question....
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I thought stainless exhausts were more likely to crack and break, than mild ones??

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If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746

Poor welding is the major cause of cracking.
Most stainless is TIG welded, with a decent degree of competency.
Stainless steel also has a higher temperature rating before it loses mechanical strength - note that of the common grades 304L withstands heat better than 316L and is usually a little bit cheaper.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Ah well i'll give it a go anyway, here's the updated EM

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Got some more parts this week.... Hopefully get some time next week to start getting them in their places.

Turbo dump pipe flange





Exhaust flanges for the model above



Left engine mount and bracket to be welded to the tower

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Can someone tell me if it's ok to simply undo the pipe clamp that holds the turbo halves together and twist one with respect to the other?
I want to get the exhaust inlet/outlet in a different position with respect to the feed inlet/outlet.

By the looks of this pic, it shouln't be a problem:

http://scoobytuner.com/Images/SEMA05-7.JPG

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This shouldn't be a problem at all. Remove the wastegate actuator and the clamp, and it will allow you to remove the exhaust housing. Most turbos have a locating dowell/pin in the housing which will need to be filed off (or a new dowell relief drilled) to allow the housing to be rotated. I recall there is a thread on AuStarlet forums about this. Will look and see if I can find it ...

You will of course need to make a new wastegate actuator mount too.

Edit : http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1802 This is for a TD04L but the CT9 will be very similar, if not the same.

-Alan

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

Cheers for that Alan. Got to the last step, couldn't get the two apart and didn't want to give it too much! I'll take it to the exhaust place down the road and get them to heat it up and get it apart - i don't have an oxy.

Got a bit more done again tonight - nothing that can really be seen though!

Got another question: Does anyone see any issues with mounting turbo in the orientation shown in the following photo's?

The only issue i can see is that the waste-gate is actually being forced open due to gravity, but probably not an issue.. What about oil? I guess that wont be prob if it has decent pressure?





Also took a quick chance to check the TMIC clearance tonight too:

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Turbo's can't be mounted like that the oil will not drain out and will smoke badly.
Hope you checked whether you can reposition the turbo, from an engineers and transport SA point of view they might not like it. Mine had to stay in the original position.

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Thanks 92, i've had little experience with turbos - so don't know the norms and the do's and don'ts.

So i assume the turbine axis must be horizontal?

I'll suss out the engineering part of it too.

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92 you are dead right... unfortunately the ADR's state that you must use the original exhaust parts if you don't want to have to go through emissions testing - shizer!

So i got out to the shed again tonight and started to suss out putting in the original EM and Turbo inlet clean air lines. It seems that i wont be too much trouble to fit the original gear. In fact it turns out better as i'm planning on using the TMIC so less custom bits!

I'm told that my 3rd engine mount fabricated part will arrive tomorrow - which will hopefully lock the engine in place.

When that's done i guess the car needs to go off to get some drive shafts. Does anyone have any good techniques for measuring drive shaft lengths requried? I was just going to take it to an engineering shop and get them to make them to fit - but it might be easier to have measured lengths.

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Ok... finally got a bit more work done. Finished the LH engine mount (tacked, but not fully welded)

The parts before i started - Rear engine mount and flanges to complete the LH engine mount


LH engine mount

3 x M10 bolts to hold the LH engine mount bar, so I can still get the engine out the top...



Rear engine mount under the car



Passenger floor before putting in the rear engine mount:


Cutout


Through the floor


The start of the box mount

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Looking very, very nice!

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

I cut down one of those telescopic broom/mop handles so I could get the length right and play around with it. When its about the correct length, twist to lock it to that length and measure. Make sure you do the long one 1st. You also want to make sure its got enough clearance in the end of the CVs through the entire suspension movement without binding or coming too far out of the spline.

Remember your suspension geometry will change how long the shafts have to be (eg lots of neg camber = longer shafts) so fit any new susp stuff and try to get the angles close before you measure.

As long as you think about what you are doing and do the old "measure 3 times cut once" story, you won't have an issue.

Oh yeah.....and have fun!

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!