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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:35 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
JC wrote:
What sort of clearance do you have around the steering column with the lay shaft?

The rear part of the bracket (around the shaft) is ~70mm forward of the rear part of the gearbox (as indicated in this pic) so I see no reason why it would interfere with the steering rack or column.
Image

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 11:38 pm 
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998cc
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Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
I got the rebuild kits fitted to the rear radius arms so have repacked the (Timken) bearings and built up the brakes as well. Everything had already been sandblasted and painted so it was all just a case of bolting everything together. New 5/8" cylinders (due to front disc upgrade), shoes, springs, rubber boots.
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The body repairs have started as well. I'll be leaving the major rust repairs and panel welding to someone else when I drop it off this weekend but I've cut some pieces from my front cut to repair some of the smaller items in the good shell. I have also welded up the bumper holes in the front valance since I'll be going for the smoothie look all round.
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I have drilled out all the spot welds in the old front valance and sills.
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After sandblasting, there was hardly any rust in the sill exterior so I was initially thinking I'll just repair the rusty sections, but after shining a torch down the sills from the holes in the front wheel arches, I saw HEAPS of sandblasting media and some indication of surface rust inside. New sills are cheap as so it was worth the effort to remove them and I'll rust proof/paint what I can inside. I ended up sweeping up over 1kg on sandblasting media from each sill! It literally poured out of the spot weld holes when I bumped the shell!
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I drop the shell off this Saturday to get the new boot, front valance, floorpans and sills welded in; and new steel welded in to replace various rust holes. The shell will also be desemed (both pillars & rear bumper).

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject: Sandblasting
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:30 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:23 pm
Posts: 191
Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Hey Alan,

What did you pay for all the sandblasting if you don't mind me asking? Oh.. and thanks for the layshaft bracket reminder - i'd totally forgotten about that bracket!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:06 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
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Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
The blasting (& paint in 2pak etch primer) cost me $1250. It was done by a guy who is also a well-known member of a local Mini club (and has been blasting for years). For that price he does everything inside and out (except for the roof) and both doors/boot/bonnet but requests that ALL seam sealer is removed prior. I had to do the roof by hand (quick job with Josco Strip-it discs) anyway because it had heaps of bog in it.

It was a good thorough job too.

He's apparently supposed to be retiring but I don't think the local Mini & Hot Rod clubs will let him :D

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 12:00 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
I received word that my shell repairs & deseaming will take a further ~4 weeks to complete so I've taken the opportunity to work a bit on the Starlet engine...

The company I imported the front cut through said that the engine was in excellent condition so I removed the valve cover to get an idea of whether there was any sludge or carbon build up to be dealt with. I was pleasantly surprised to see it was clean as. Second pic is a shot of another Starlet engine with similar kms to show what it could have looked like! It seems like my engine has certainly been well maintained.

Image
Image

I spent today stripping all the Starlet engine down to ready it for cleaning (degreasing), light sandblast and a fresh lick of paint. Removed from the engine is all oil, coolant, fuel & air/vacuum lines, brackets; as well as the turbo assembly, exhaust manifold, inlet manifold, water pump, fuel rail, injectors, starter motor, gearbox and clutch.

All sensors, open pipes etc have been VERY well taped up with electrical tape so they are sealed and protected when everything gets blasted. To seal the intake/exhaust & water pump ports, I made up some blanking plates with 9mm MDF sheet (as seen in the pics below) and will be sealed with gasket maker. My mate who will be doing the blasting has give me a tip to insert foam earplugs in any bolt threads so that the threads are not damaged during the blasting. Once a light blasting is complete, I will mask everything up and paint it in high temperature engine enamel.

Engine stripped (fuel rail & injectors still attached at rear) with gearbox still on :
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Gearbox removed & clutch removed. I made up a simple wood stand for the engine to sit on too and some rag have been stuffed into the holes where then injectors normally are. One question that I'd need answered : How do I remove the flywheel bolts since the crank turns when I try and loosen the bolts. Is there a trick to holding the flywheel in place to undo the bolts? I was thinking of getting some steel tube/plate and bolting it to flywheel and creating a kind of chock (against the ground)?
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Heaps of build up of crud in the bell housing (easily cleaned up)
Image

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Last edited by Mearcat on Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 7:23 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 1:41 pm
Posts: 12310
Location: Rockingham - Collie WA
Mearcat wrote:
How do I remove the flywheel bolts since the crank turns when I try and loosen the bolts.


Rattle gun.

I use a cheap 1/2" drive air impact gun.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 10:39 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
I don't have a rattle gun so improvised (I have a feeling that this is how most people get the flywheel off!)

I jammed a large screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear and against a bolt to stop the flywheel from moving. My wife (on the odd occasion that I need her help) used a breaker bar to then undo the nuts. I also did the same to get the crankshaft pulley bolt undone.

Image

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 12:27 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
I got the crankshaft pulley off tonight so everything is apart and ready for cleaning. Yay :D

I managed to drop the crankshaft pulley and break a piece off. Bugger :cry:

Image

Should I look at replacing the crankshaft pulley because of this??

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 12:52 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 2:34 pm
Posts: 2002
Location: Brisbane
I dropped mine as well, they do chip quite easily. Not as big as yours though.
If youve got a mate spare with a lathe you could get him to see if its still true.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 11:17 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
I found out today that the 4E-FE crank pulley is a standard pulley but the 4E-FTE has a harmonic balancer integrated in the pulley. The 4E-FE pulley does fit the turbo engine of course, but the question is should I ... :? Probably not.

I'll have to see if this one can still be used. Off to an engineering shop I go...

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 6:58 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 2:56 pm
Posts: 3981
Location: Brisbane
Bloke on austarlet club called fearlesss (josh) would have a million of them lying around. He is INCREDIBLY generous and a great guy too so he'll look after you. Prolly work out cheaper then machining it.

I have his number or just send him as pm via austarletclub.

In addition my project manager is commutting from perth atm so can cut down post if she flies it over in her luggage.

JC

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 12:00 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
I posted a wanted ad on the austarlet forums this afternoon and within 2 hours, already got a response from a guy here in Perth who has one! Amazing. I love the interweb :lol: :lol:

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject: Brake boosters
PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 11:07 am 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
I need to decide what I am going to use for a brake booster. I have the choice between a VH44 (from eg Hydroboost) or a Cooper S one like this (http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=38542)

Is either of these two better than the other, or more the case, which is better suited to the 4 pot Metro brakes I will be using. They are about the same price to source.

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject: Re: Brake boosters
PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 11:23 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
Posts: 15861
Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
Mearcat wrote:
I have the choice between a VH44


use the VH44 - will be cheaper, and any brake shop can get reco parts for them if necessary.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 11:41 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 946
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
Quick update ... I have picked my engine, gearbox & a few other parts from my mate after he's given everything a light blast and it's all come up much better than expected. I will be spending some time over the next week masking and painting with VHT engine enamel (exhaust manifold will be painted with the VHT Flameproof paint). Then everything will be cured properly - baking it at 93degC for 1 hour - which will done in my hooded BBQ :D Well everything except the engine & gearbox which won't fit in the BBQ :lol:

Condition after blasting :
Image

Image

Image

For a further engine refresh, I have purchased a genuine Toyota 4EFE full engine gasket kit to replace every seal & gasket in the whole engine (bought it as NOS off eBay for $50!! new price is ~$300). Also have new timing belt kit, bearing shells for big ends and crank, and new bolts for conrod & crank. I just have to wait for the crankshaft cap bolts to arrive on backorder from Toyota Japan in ~3 weeks.

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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