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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
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Location: SE Melbourne
How do you get the speedo to work accurately when its cable driven?
Do you get the gauges re-calibrated or alter the drive pinion?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 6:31 pm 
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Harley wrote:
How do you get the speedo to work accurately when its cable driven?
Do you get the gauges re-calibrated or alter the drive pinion?


I was able to get my gauges recalibrated, I'm not sure what they did but I suspect they are able to change gear set in the back or similar.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 12:35 pm 
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fuzzy-hair-man wrote:
I was able to get my gauges recalibrated, I'm not sure what they did but I suspect they are able to change gear set in the back or similar.


Look for a small gearbox between the speedo head and the drive cable...or down on the gearbox :idea:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 1:29 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
Look for a small gearbox between the speedo head and the drive cable...or down on the gearbox :idea:

It wasn't insanely expensive, but I can appreciate the diy aspect.

On the micra there is no small gearbox etc, the instrument place only had the gauges to work with but I suspect there may be small gears in the back of the cluster, there is a magnetic type wheel thing that works in there as well so perhaps they can adjust the air gap on that?
There's also the speedo drive gear that engages the diff, changing that will effect speedo output but there's probably a pretty limited range it would still engage and you'd have to find the gears.
But like I said I don't know.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 11:18 am 
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The real fun has started with me dealing with the Toyota Starlet wiring loom. I pulled all the loom tube and tape off everything and using the detailed wiring document that I made years ago, I marked each connector with electrical tape - green to keep; red to remove.
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Instead of just installing the entire loom in the Mini and leaving unused wiring in place, I wanted to remove everything that I won't need - Electronic suspension, fog lights, all Air-conditioning components/sensors/relays, rear demister, rear wiper/washer, power mirrors, power windows etc. Starting at each connector, I traced each wire back to it's source, making sure it wasn't used by something else and this is what I stripped out (roll of electrical tape included for size reference :) )
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Any wires that needed to be rejoined were done with the proper crimps
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...and using a cheap eBay de-pin tool, I also removed all the terminal pins from the connectors
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Just be aware that most connectors have a locking mechanism which has to be levered out before any pins can be removed
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After approx 12 hours of work, all the redundant wiring was removed from the cabin & engine bay looms in the Mini. I quickly found that there was not enough room in the engine bay to comfortably fit the main fuse box so I have decided that this will be relocated somewhere behind the dash and as such, a lot of re-routing of wiring will have to be done and plenty more hours work in store...
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I will also be adding wiring back into the loom for some gauges/sensors, dash lighting, stereo, central locking, power windows... and shortening/extending wiring for the modified positions of the alternator, battery, radiator, instrument cluster, ignition barrel.

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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