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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 10:30 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:15 pm
Posts: 671
Location: Melbourne
Nice work there Mearcat. Great attention to detail as always, this is going to look great when finished.

Cheers
Madmorrie


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 2:07 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:01 am
Posts: 42
Location: Santiago, Chile
Mearcat wrote:
I completed the support bracket for the equalising driveshaft / layshaft today. The bracket pieces were laser cut from 10mm steel and their minimum charge, I got 3 sets cut - both of the spare sets have been pre-sold to Joe (blue_deluxe) and a local guy here in Perth - both doing the 4EFTE conversion!

The design was based on the one made by Slinkey (thanks! :D ). The two main pieces bolt onto the shaft itself; and rear of the engine block (where the alternator used to be).
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The top part of the larger piece was bent to clear the centre bolt hole in the smaller piece. My arc welder was cranked right up for the 10mm steel and it was all welded up with a couple of gussets for bracing.
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Next step - replace my front valance panel (current one is bashed up and bent to sh!t) and complete the subframe design.




Hi Mearcat, sorry to bother you, which car did you get the equalising layshaft?

thanks and cheers from Chile

Axel

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2020 11:12 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 901
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
clubman S wrote:
Hi Mearcat, sorry to bother you, which car did you get the equalising layshaft?
thanks and cheers from Chile
Axel

The equaliser shaft/layshafts are from a AE101 or AE111 Corolla/Levin with 4AGE engine. Of course, I have no idea how accessible those cars/parts are in Chile but good luck.

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 4:31 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:01 am
Posts: 42
Location: Santiago, Chile
Mearcat wrote:
clubman S wrote:
Hi Mearcat, sorry to bother you, which car did you get the equalising layshaft?
thanks and cheers from Chile
Axel

The equaliser shaft/layshafts are from a AE101 or AE111 Corolla/Levin with 4AGE engine. Of course, I have no idea how accessible those cars/parts are in Chile but good luck.

thanks!!!


brgds
AJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:39 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 901
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
Once again, here are a few updates form the last few months...

My focus is now on the interior of the Mini and I wanted to make a centre console to hide the gear shifter. Before that, I had to move the handbrake rearward as it was too close to the gear shifter assembly.
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I cut off the factory bent-steel mount and made a beefier one (with captive nuts) that won't eventually crack like a lot of mounts I've seen.
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This was stitch welded back on 50mm further back
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At 150mm wide, I purposely made the centre console as narrow as possible to maximise legroom. It was a basic design made from MDF and covered in a few layers of fibreglass to make the surface more resistant to knocks/dents.
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For mounting the gear shifter boot, I made a frame that screws to the inside of the centre console. The boot will eventually screw into this frame
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In the console, I have a voltmeter, power window switches and a small plastic storage tray (from a Toyota Tacoma)
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The original plan was to have a cigarette lighter and USB outlets in the console but I didn't end up with enough room so I mounted them either side of the stereo.
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...and speaking of power windows, I bought a SPAL power window kit years ago and it was now time to install the motors. With one end of the motor mechanism attached to the window winder, the other end would fit nicely in the door skin opening and not interfere with the window glass or mechanism as the motor would sit directly below the 1/4 window in the door.
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I had to make a custom spacer to stop the handle adapter cog thing from moving back/forth on the winder shaft
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Like most power window kits, they some with those triangular / cheese wedge brackets but I wanted something neater than self tapping screws into the door so some more custom brackets were made
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Mounted like this (screwed into rivnuts in the door) , apart from the winder handle that sticks out about 40mm, the rest of the power window mechanism only sits at most 5-6mm proud of the door skin and and no cutting of the door required.
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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 1:38 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:17 pm
Posts: 901
Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
This is a really short update but it's (another?) unique bit of work that I had to share as it turned out well. One of the issues with any engine conversion is dealing with potential differences in fuel tank level and the fuel level gauge. With the Mini fuel level sender providing a resistance range of 30 Ohms (full) and 290 Ohms (empty) it was nowhere near the same as the Toyota instrument that used a range of 4-114 Ohms. There are kits available like the Gauge Wizard from https://www.spiyda.com/ but a friend of mine told me about a solution he had successfully used in his Mini engine conversion years ago - replacing the rheostat in the fuel level sender with a custom circuit board and I considered this idea for my project.

Making the custom fuel sender circuit board was a relatively easy process - pull apart the factory sender rheostat, make some measurements
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Using a free PCB maker program called Circuitmaker, I copied the layout of the factory rheostat. The small custom board (37mm x 33mm) was designed to have twenty four 4.7 Ohm SMD resistors wired in series to get a ~5-113Ohm resistance range. It was a great way to solve the problem of mismatching ranges between the Mini and Toyota Starlet. I had a bare PCB milled and the board and realised that I'd screwed up the sweep angles so had to do it over again! Once the design was corrected and new boards milled, it was then screwed back onto the sender assembly
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Soldering the tiny 0805 size SMD resistors (2.0mm x 1.3mm each) to the circuit board was fiddly but once done, the board was screwed onto the sender assembly.
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Testing showed that the range was pretty dang close to the Toyota instrument. I actually made two sender PCBs so I've got a spare.
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_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


Last edited by Mearcat on Wed Jul 15, 2020 8:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 2:47 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 3598
Location: Wollongong, NSW
Nice doo-hickey thing there! Always like seeing how you solve problems like these

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2020 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Nice work! 8)

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