had a tiny bubble on the bottom of my door but knew the horrors that would be on the inside and i was right

Look on the bright side, at least you can get new door skins.............

Should be here tomorrow

wish we could get new skins for aussie doors

Why can't you?

No one makes them, only English ones available

didnt know they were different
got my alloy ones fitted
one door rust free

got my parts from minispares so will be flat out over the next few weeks

fixed the scuttle today as didnt have much time with it today
before

after

well i never took a picture of the last door frame it was much worse then this and a pain in the bollox to fix


sorted

well have both doors skinned now and blocked out!!! mad to think there is this many low spots in a new skin (wtf:


bonnet hinges sorted
front arb done

Is that ARB bracket welded straight onto the lower control arm? could there be an issue with strength/snapping the control arm...

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I like low cost builds but that's a real no-no. Better to clamp a bracket to the arm than risk it failing due to the heat affected weld are.

M

It’s more than that front lower arm that worry me.
I’m not normally one to pick on people builds because quite often the stuff we see here is just mock up stuff, not the finished product, but if I see something I think could be a safety concern I feel it should be noted, not only for the owner of the car to make their own decision on fixing it but to stop any ‘copy-cat’ behaviour from backyarder people building the same who don’t see the finished product.

I’ll skip over the subframe design and the materials used in it and the construction method, I’ll just say there’s room for improvement.

Brakes: the linkage running across the dash from the pedal to the booster is not secured to the car chassis in any suitable way at all. We can see one 5/16 nut holding the drivers end down and the shaft retained with another at the other end. If somone hits the anchors hard enough the drivers side one will strip and then its no more brakes. If the one at the other end wears and breaks, same result. I’m sure this isn’t going to be the finished product, but just pointing this out incase.

Alternator bracket: the tags holding the alternator up are very thin. Watch for cracking.

Rear subframe: the cut down rear frame is still rubber mounted. It has no torsional rigidity left without closing the open ‘c’ section up and ditching the rubber mounts.
The vertical control arms that have been shown shortened have clearly been done without doing a full penetration butt-weld. What’s there is at higher risk of cracking.

The gold JS racing thing: if it’s a stabiliser it’ll rip clean out of the firewall, and you can see this has happened before.

Driveshafts: the short shaft has a very small diameter section in the middle. Could probably do with another layer of weld around there unless it’s intended to be a shear point.

i get what you are saying with the front arb bracket but i welded it in stages not to put too much heat though it at once.
the brake bracket is welded in and 2 nylon bushes in each end so the weight is on the bar not the treaded bold so unless you snap the bar you wont lose brakes
the rear subframe isnt rubber mounted its fixed by 10 m12 bolts with solid spacers the orgininal mounts were left in place to make it easy to mount straight
the drop links are just for mock up will be replaced with rose joined drop links
shafts they were made by a shaft specialist so i trust them

That makes me feel better then - still not sure about the lower control arms. Are they cast or forged?

I thought they were forged, but I could be wrong.

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.