Ausmini
It is currently Fri Mar 29, 2024 7:39 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 105 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 6:03 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
I think its time for an update!!

We left off with the lower front subframe mounts completed, and the original Mini mounting holes tapped to take 8mm bolts.

As I was doing the rear bulkheads, I did notice that Leonidas had taken a bit of a shunt in the passenger side rear corner. Not a huge shunt but enough to bend the floor. The PO must have tried to belt it out at one stage and all he succeeded in doing was to fold the floor over on itself. I am going to leave this for now as we have a new rear valence coming, and once that is fitted up I can get a good idea of how far out of shape this section is. It will however, take some punding to undo the mess that is there, and me just be easier to cut it out and weld in a new section.
Image

Image

As I mentioned before, Justin was keen to have the whole shell deseamed, and I agreed with his sentiment as I like the look of a deseamed Mini. I started on the back, as it was partly done when we welded up the seam underneath the bulkhead. After wire-wheeling the seam, I welded it fully from top to bottom, ensuring that there was good penetration to both sides on the fold.

Passenger side:
Image

Close up showing good coverage:
Image

The secret to getting good coverage and penetration is to make sure that the seam is scrupulously clean. Any crap in the fold will contaminate the weld and porosity will result. I dont recommend deseaming for those that are half-hearted about it - it involves a lot of work, and a lot of time.

Drivers side:
Image

Penetration through to the outside:
Image

Image

Once the seams are fully welded from the inside, the flange can be cut off with the grinder, and then the seam are ground flush with a flap disc, taking care not to warp the panels with too much heat. Be aware though that there is a 50mm section at the very top of the seam that cant be welded from the inside, that will have to be done from the outside. I leave this bit until I am ready to do the roof section:
Image

Image

Image

This is what a nice smooth Mini bum should look like:
Image

Image

Image

Next, I decided to do the roof. This is a fairly hard part of the car to deseam, as it all has to be done from the outside. For now, I will leave the A-piller/roof junction for when I am doing the A-pillers themselves. First, start off with removing the seam reinforcing that is spot welded to the underside of the joining flange. A good spot-weld cutter or drill bit will help here - there are about 30 spot welds each side!!! I use a cobalt spot-weld drll bit, as it is so much easier to use than a spot-weld cutter! Once all the welds are drilled out, take a hammer and cold chisel to the rail and they should pop straight off.

These are the reinforcing strips we need to get rid of:
Image

And discarded:
Image

The roof cannot be welded from the inside, like the rear seams. This means that you have to cut the flange off first, then weld the seams together. Care has to be taken in not cutting off too much of the flange, and leaving a gaping hole that is too wide to weld. The secret is to cut of about 75mm-100mm at a tme, leaving some of the flange slightly proud, then hammering the metal over and welding it together. Then, once it has been fully welded and ground back slightly, to the peen the weld so it is just below the two adjoining surfaces so filler can level the joint and make it look totally flush.
I started Leonidas' roof about 50mm from the passenger side A-piller/roof junction, and then worked rearward:
Image

When you hit the C-pillar/roof junction at the rear corner, you have to be careful when cutting away the flanges as this will create a hole where the three body pressings meet (passenger side, roof and rear) - like this:
Image

With a bit of skill and determination and simply taking your time, you can weld it up just fine, and then carry on around to the rear:
Image

Image

Until you hit the other corner, and then the same procedure applies:
Image

Moving onto the front A-piller seams - these are much harder as part of them are welded from the inside, like the rear seams, but most of it has to be welded from the outside, like the roof seams. Basically, treat them the same as the roof seam and it will work out just fine - cut a section, weld, cut a section, weld!! The part inside the front guards can be welded from the inside, which is where I start. I then work my way up the guard and A-pillar:
Image

Image

Passenger side completed:
Image

The junction of the A-pillar/roof creates the same problem as at the rear - just take your time and dont cut too much flange off. From there, you can move around to the front of the roof:
Image

Once you have welded and ground back all the seams, this is the end result, a nice, smooth deseamed shell:
Image

Image

Also, while I am in this area, I weld up the front guard to scuttle seam. It saves any chance of rust developing here and just enhances the smooth body look that the deseaming portrays. There will be no seams evident on Leonidas when we are finished:
Image

So, there you go, a deseamed Mini. Like I have said previously, doing this is not for the faint-hearted, as it is a lot of work and takes a good amount of time. However, I believe that the look is truly worth the effort. Its a case of each to their own though, as I know that there are Mini afficianado's out there that think a deseamed shell is an affront to God and all things holy!! :shock:

Cheers,
Tricky

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 7:17 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2004 3:12 pm
Posts: 1461
Location: Brisbane
I do like he look of a de-seamed mini

_________________
If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 12:19 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:15 pm
Posts: 678
Location: Melbourne
Looking brilliant Tricky, a definite credit to you.

And speaking of each to their own, what are your thoughts on the sectioned minis? When I win the lotto I'll get you to build me a RWD mini sprint...

Cheers
Madmorrie


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 12:03 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 1:37 pm
Posts: 2495
Location: Vegus, Brisvegus
Tricky, now is the perfect time to take a mould off that shell. With no seams and no paint it is just right to make a mould for any future fibreglass or carbon parts (or whole outers) you may want to do later.

Especially if you progress towards space framed and carbon bodies race minis! I'd like one of those please when they're ready.

M


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 3:03 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Well thank you all gentlemen for the kind words...

MM - I would gladly do a sectioned Mini, as long as it wasnt too radical - like taking a foot out or something. Sectioned Minis look great, and a Mini sprint would be cool - hurry up and win the Lotto!

Mokesta - never really thought about that until you mentioned it just now. Yeah, it could work I suppose. Would love to do a CF bodied, spaceframed RWD Mini - any other takers?

Cheers,
Tricky

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2014 7:24 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2007 3:50 pm
Posts: 404
Location: MORNINGTON PENINSULA
Looks cool

But I'm glad I didn't have to do it ,looks time consuming

I think that's a great idea Mokesta , If I win tatts i'll have one (i'll buy you one to Ross)

Cheers Hallsey


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 6:50 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Thanks bro, and yes, it is time consuming but I reckon the results are well worth it.

Im might investigate getting a mould done if there is this much interest.

Cheers,
Tricky

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:27 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Hi Guys,

Well I guess we are overdue for an update, so here goes:

In the previous episode we left Leonidas baby-butt smooth, bare and looking oh so very sleek. But the bodywork was far from finished. The PO had removed the front and rear valences due to excessive cancer, so it was time to replace these and get him looking more like a complete shell. A quick phonecall to Minisport said they had them in stock, so we sent off an order and a few days later these arrived by courier:
Image

A quick hit with the wire wheel and we were ready for for the front valence. Initial fitup showed that the reproduction pressing was not perfect, but workable. The crucial areas around the headlight curve was ok, and the rest of the sheet metal could be pushed or pulled into shape:
Image

Image

Because Leonidas will be devoid of any seams whatsoever, the front valance will be fully seam welded instead of spot welded on like from the factory. So, once it was all clamped into position, it was out with the welder:
Image

Image

The inner wings were plug welded to the inner guards in lieue of spot welding, and then ground smooth were possible. The PO had hacked at these areas pretty badly to get the front clip off, but luckily this aresa will be getting a generous coating of stone guard to hide most, if not all, this ugliness:
Image

Image

Image

A quick hit with the flap disc on the front seams, and Leonidas was looking great with his new front valence fitted up - smooth, with no seams:
Image

The rear valence is not as straightforward as the front. The seam that the rear valence is spot welded to also holds together the upper body, and the boot floor - so it has three layers to contend with. Initila fitup showed that the drivers side was ok, but the passenger side, where the shunt had taken place, was badly out by about 20mm - too much to tweak and try to get right with just manipulating the valence:
Image

Image

The panel was a pretty good fit for the most part, except for the passenger side corner:
Image

It was decided to cut the offending area out, fitup the valence, and then use the valence as a guide to reshape the offending rear quarter panel:
Image

Because Leonidas will be used as a track car, every aerodynamic aid we can use will be employed to help him attain at least a modicum of downforce. Justin has chosen to run a rear undertray diffuser, to help channel the airflow under the car and create some negative pressure zones, in effect helping to 'suck' the car to the ground.
Image

The area that the diffuser sits in will need to be cut out of the rear valence at a later date when the mounting points for the front of the diffuser are fabricated onto the rear subframe. The two 'endcaps' that cap off the rear valence are to be removed, simply because two new endcaps will have to be fabricated to enclose the rear diffuser - so why have the excess weight. As well, the rear arches may have to be enlarged to house the 15" rims and the endcaps may interfere with these as well - so, it was out with the grinder:
Image

To leave the underbody flat and uncluttered, awaiting more sheetmetal fabrication to enclose the diffuser:
Image

Then is was a matter of fitting up the rear valence, and welding it on. This was to be accomplised by seam welding the valence from the underside to the boot floor, then seam welding the boot floor to the upper body from the inside:
Image

Image

Then, it was a simple case of filling in the rear pasenger side area that had the shunt, as the rear valence allowed us to shape the infill panel nicely to regain the shape of the rear panel. This was all welded from the inside:
Image

Image

Seeing as the valence is now fully seam welded to the body from the inside, the rear seam now becomes redundent, so out with the grinder and flap disc and off it came. The rear is now super smooth, and round, and looking oh so good:
Image

And finally, I straightened out the boot sealing lip, so now its nice and straight - mmmm, looking good:
Image

Hope you like it!!!

Cheers,
Tricky

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:58 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2007 3:50 pm
Posts: 404
Location: MORNINGTON PENINSULA
Looking good there tricksta

Time comsuming isn't it
haha that diffuser looks familiar

Cheers Hallsey


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:59 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 3:10 pm
Posts: 358
Location: Bentleigh, VIC
Incredible! Thanks for the update, I was beginning to get impatient...

_________________
1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:08 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 7:19 pm
Posts: 5370
Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
Are you removing the front bumper? If so where will the number plate go?

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 7:53 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
hallsey wrote:
Looking good there tricksta

Time comsuming isn't it
haha that diffuser looks familiar

Cheers Hallsey

Hi Hallsey, thanks mate. Yes it is, but the end result is well worth it.

BKozan wrote:
Incredible! Thanks for the update, I was beginning to get impatient...

Thanks BKozan, hopefully there wont be such a long lag for the next one!!

Kennomini wrote:
Are you removing the front bumper? If so where will the number plate go?
Yes, its going. The body kit comes with a fibreglass front bumper, so the plate will be attached to that.

Cheers,
Tricky

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:45 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 9:36 am
Posts: 14
Location: Melb.
Any progress Tricky. Been hanging out to see whats next on both your projects (El Gato)
cheers

_________________
77 Clubman
1100, was daily driver
waiting to drop 1380 in!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:07 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
hi Mate,

In reality I am about six weeks ahead of where we are on thr forum.
Just havent gotten around to posting up anything yet.

Been super buys with tax time here etc, b ut wil get around to posting soon.

Thanks for the interest though.

Cheers,
Tricky

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:07 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:25 pm
Posts: 1335
Location: Brissy
Archangel007 wrote:

In reality I am about six weeks ahead of where we are on thr forum.
Just havent gotten around to posting up anything yet.
.


You cant just say something like that and not post up any progress pics..... thats cruel!!
:lol: :lol:

_________________
Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 105 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.