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Radiator for B16A
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Author:  Dutchy1978 [ Mon Oct 19, 2015 8:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Radiator for B16A

Has anyone fitted their mini radiator when converting to a B16A?

I have a pretty new 2 core aluminium that I was using that will be a better fit for the size requirements but want to make sure it would cool enough. I would front mount it and also run a thermo fan controlled by the ECU.
Let me me know if someone has done this with success.

Image

Author:  _666_ [ Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radiator for B16A

when i fitted the daihatsu sirion engine to my moke i used an alloy mini radiator, mostly because it was almost the same capacity as the daihatsu originally had, but also for size restraints and had the fittings on the right side/angles

see how you go for size, but you might want something like a daihatsu or civic radiator as its thinner

Author:  Harley [ Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radiator for B16A

I did a lot of research into cooling systems for both of my conversions, and in the end decided that a mini radiator isn't really suitable for a donor conversion for engines over 1.3 litres (perhaps a low power 1.4).

I haven't seen any success stories of mini radiators used with a B16a, and that includes 3 core (3 inch thick) radiators. It just wasn't designed to cool an engine of that much capacity and heat production - particularly when crammed into a car with a mail slot for fresh air.


This isn't B16 specific as it goes for any conversion, but here's a few things to think about if they havent already been done so:

1. The factory cooling setup for any conversion engine is the best place to start if it can be made to work (thatts a given).
2. With the minis smaller wheels and without changing gearbox internals, different engines will most likely run at higher RPM than they were designed for at that given road speed. That means there's more engine heat being generated and less cool fresh air velocity too. This means even the correct radiator for a given engine may not work as well as designed.
3. Efficiency can be increased / maintained with correct cowling / baffling. Even if you have a big radiator it may be useless if the warm 'high pressure' air from the fan can get to the front of the radiator 'low pressure' side easier than fresh air through the grille.
4. Similar to above, efficiency is far greater with a cowl between the radiator and fan to ensure all the fins get air flow.

Author:  Bennjamin [ Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radiator for B16A

Also consider a lower temp thermostat , fan switch as well - this will open up at a lower temp and keep things circulating.

Author:  Dutchy1978 [ Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radiator for B16A

All good points and have already considered.
- I have an aluminium civic radiator with fan. Cowling is not essential providing it is positioned as close to centre as possible. (Not all behind the head light)
- I will be changing the final drive so it runs at the correct RPM through all gears.
- I am just deciding on whether to use the Honda P28 ECU with a chip or my Autronic SM4 which I can set the fan cut in & out temp. If I use my Auteonic then I will have to get an emissions test which is about $600. I have to work out if the is worth it to do it first time rather than use the Honda one then have to change it once engineered.
Thanks for the feedback.

Author:  Harley [ Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radiator for B16A

I'd run the honda ECU and fit a temperature sensor onto the radiator or a cooling hose. You can buy simple gadgets that will override the thermofan at the temperature you want it to and the ECU won't even know.

Author:  patwilliamson [ Sun Nov 22, 2015 7:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Radiator for B16A

Harley has good points re cooling issues. I installed a b16a into 1275GT back in 1998. I used original morris 1300 radiator up front in crossflow config. However this just didn't do the job (even cooler ambient in NZL)
I used a Mitsubishi item from the wreckers to solve issue. Moving on some time now and i find myself and race car in Aust. I now use an alloy radiator from Mazda RX7. (aftermarket) This is full race however with space to accommodate.
I'm building another vtec road mini for my wife here in QLD. I got Tricky to build frame based on standard round nose. Just finished building some bespoke extractors to fit front of car.
The race car i used a gen 1 Link computer, easy to wire and removes all the Honda loom and simplifies input/output signals.
The project road car uses an aftermarket ecu as well. makes life easy even if it cost $1600.00.
Radiator location will be tricky. Thinking about small motorbike items in series and create cowling pathway to encourage air flow with out too much high pressure zone in front...if life were easy....you would get a car with a bigger engine bay!
Hope it helps...

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