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PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 6:06 pm 
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Hey guys need help ...Whats the best vtec kit for my clubman ....does anyone stock kits in aus or is there a step by step guide to customise my subframe


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
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Location: SE Melbourne
Short answer - nobody in Aus builds or sells frames for Hondas.

There is no 'best' kit for a vtec conversion otherwise everyone would have the same one.
You need to talk to an engineer and discuss with them which way would be the best for you and them to be happy.

I'd suggest starting with looking at an Allspeed kit out of the UK. There are others out there like Minitec and Watsons but the Allspeed maintains the cars original suspension / wheel track which is usually a biggie out here. They can also sell you driveshafts and alternator mounts.
Combine those parts with a clubman and a B16 engine and you'll be rollin in no time.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 5:15 am 
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I just joined today. For past 10-yrs I've had a fly-yellow Mini Traveler w/JDM B-18C, Type R. Loaded with AC,PW,5-spd. it was built by Mini-Tec in Royston,GA,USA. They sell all types of kits and subframes including an AWD setup. I've driven the whey out of this little, all motor sleeper. It's my fav of the 5 cars I own, including a 67 Vette, 18 Alfa Romeo Quadrifoglio 505hp SUV and 2 Studebakers. Minitec also sells through Ebay, Minimania and a few other outlets. Just Google "VTEC Mini". Good luck.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:57 am 
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Location: Sandy Bay, Tasmania
The min-tec stuff looks really good and has been around for years - but it's very expensive. If I was serious about speed that's what I'd be doing just to get their awd kit. But the front subframe and driveshafts alone are ~$3500 even before delivery. The big kicker is that, unless the design has changed, the mini-tec has an increased track-width of 40mm - any more than 25mm and it's illegal for road use in Australia.

The allspeed kits are around half that, so if you're not going for AWD then I reckon that's the go. The also keep the stock track-width.

A couple grand for the subframe and driveshafts is great value, making the subframe is a big ordeal. It will still need to be signed off by an engineer, but provided that the track isn't increased it should be fine.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 8:39 am 
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Location: St. George Area, New South Wales
Harley wrote:
Short answer - nobody in Aus builds or sells frames for Hondas.

There is no 'best' kit for a vtec conversion otherwise everyone would have the same one.
You need to talk to an engineer and discuss with them which way would be the best for you and them to be happy.

I'd suggest starting with looking at an Allspeed kit out of the UK. There are others out there like Minitec and Watsons but the Allspeed maintains the cars original suspension / wheel track which is usually a biggie out here. They can also sell you driveshafts and alternator mounts.
Combine those parts with a clubman and a B16 engine and you'll be rollin in no time.


Note that the MiniTec/Superfast minis one can be made to suit the Aussie track requirements.


Edit: text from an email I received in 2013 when I was last looking at the cost.

""""Hi Nicholas,

I’m not sure of all of the requirements of AU, but I do know that my AU customers always have to keep the track width within 25mm of the original. We can accommodate that.

Thanks,
Benjamin Hudson
Mini Tec, Inc.
www.SUPERFASTMINIS.com
(706)246-0072""""""

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 11:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
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Location: SE Melbourne
True, thats been no issue for them to make those narrower kits and I’ve not heard of anyone with a minitec kit that had any problems relating to that.
If they do have dramas its usually cause they use rose jointed suspension and you have to have coil over suspension. Nothing that can’t be engineered ofcourse but some blokes are very cautious with their certification and the less stuff you change the easier life will be.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 11:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 9:30 pm
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Location: Adelaide
The track issue is all a bit misunderstood, both by wannabe modifiers as well as inspectors and often the people in the respective transport department technical offices. It isn't the rigid dimensional hard-line that people present it as.

The 25mm increase in track width is only really relative to the suspension upright. It is simply a basic rule to control wheel off-set and limit the risk of adverse results with respect to wheel bearing and other component loading, and things like scrub-radius, etc. If you move the front uprights 100mm further apart, then the 'standard track width' becomes 100mm wider. If you use standard offset wheels on standard hubs/uprights, then there are not any potential overloading issues, even though it is 100mm wider than stock.

So, if a Minitec frame which uses standard Mini front uprights and hubs is 50mm wider flange to flange, the only thing you need to do is make sure the rules relating to "the tyre needing to be under the guard when viewed from above with the wheels in the straight ahead position" and that they don't contact the bodywork in all positions of steering and suspension travel are complied with. i.e. You are going to need some wide guards.

Sure, using stock mini suspension and flange position (stock track) might make the engineering a little simpler and certainly make the car more stealthy, but the requirement to maintain the standard track width for the make/model car is a furphy.

Actually, the downside to keeping the original narrow flange to flange width (and therefore factory track) when doing a VTEC swap that not many people mention is that you will need to use rack limiters or similar to reduce the steering lock, and therefore increase the turning circle, as otherwise the front tyres will foul on either the subframe, the front engine pulleys, or the gearbox.

The Honda engines are wiiiiide! The Minitec flange to flange is wider to give steering clearance. They also suggest big negative off-set rims to maintain steering lock... which gives you those loading and scrub-radius issues... but also suggest a lower offset rim be used to make them handle and steer better on-road.

Ah, compromises... meh.

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