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Assembly of Timken style tapered rollers into front hubs
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Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 9:21 am ]
Post subject:  Assembly of Timken style tapered rollers into front hubs
DON'T ASSUME ALL THE AFTERMARKET KITS FIT YOUR HUBS CORRECTLY BY JUST BOLTING THEM IN, SOME `NON-TIMKEN' ONES DO NOT.
I HAVE REPLACED A FEW FRONT BEARINGS FITTED BY A MINI SHOP THAT DIDN'T CHECK PRELOAD. THE BEARINGS FAILED WITHIN A COUPLE OF WEEKS DUE TO EXCESSIVE PRELOAD.
I STRESS THESE WERE NOT GENUINE TIMKEN BEARING KITS, BUT AFTERMARKET ONES.

Assembly of Timken style tapered roller bearings to Mini front hubs (both drum and disc type)
NOTE- special equipment is needed- if you don’t have it, take it to somebody who does.

1. Clean the hubs out, check for undue wear on the centre web from bearing cups spinning. If bad, find another hub. Fit the new cups, ensuring they seat against the web. If slightly loose use Loctite 609 on the outside of the cups.
2. Check the new bearings are a neat sliding fit on the C/V (are on drive flange, with drum type). Remove any burrs with 220 wet/dry paper. If the C/V or drive flange is grooved, find another.
3. Assemble the bearings, spacer, C/V and drive flange without the seals and without grease.
4. Fit the nut and washer, torque up to 60lb/ft for drum C/Vs and 150lb/ft for disc C/Vs.
5. Rotate the drive flange by gripping it with finger and thumb, if it feels slightly tight but spins without any jerkiness that is OK. If it is tight and jerky when turned slowly, the spacer is too short. If it is loose and can be rocked even slightly, the spacer is too long.
6. If there is looseness (the usual problem if any) set up a dial gauge on a magnetic base or bracket, aligned with the end of the C/V. Push and pull the CV to establish end float present. Then machine or surface grind the spacer by (end float +.001”), this will give .001” preload when assembled. eg if it has .005” end float, grind .006” off. The spacer must be accurately machined parallel, do not try and do it by filing or using an angle grinder. Reassemble and check again rotation again.
7. If the bearings are tight and jerky you will need to find or make a spacer that is too wide, then assemble it, and proceed as in [6] above.
8. When you are happy with the rotation torque, disassemble, grease the bearings, fit the seals and reassemble.

Properly done, the tapered rollers last for a long time. My car had them replaced by me about 85,000 miles ago using this method, they are still fine.


<edit> Note that torque required on hub nut is determined by C/V type, NOT the bearing type fitted.
Disc brake Cooper 997 and 998 use drum type C/Vs, so these are torqued up to 60lb/ft, NOT 150.
Author:  ausmini [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Matt The Mini Man had this to add - to grease or not to grease, is up to you

TheMiniMan wrote:
ah,,, well,,, i`d have to say that i "NEVER" like any metal moving part to be moved, (especially if it`s tightened up with any sort of pre-load) to be moved/turned etc, -->without any grease... NEVER,,, i always grease em up before i attempt anything

i hate dry metal on metal moving anything!!!!!!!!!!!! microscopic damage becomes way more than microscopic in no-time-fast.

sorry Doc, but i reckon a tad of grease isn`t going to do diddly squat to the measurement/preload setting

I say grease em all up & fit the rear seal... take the front bearing out to effect any/all adjustment,,, then fit it back in when you`re done

& yes these new-ish bearings come with a spacer that is too wide & it needs skimming

clock it in a lathe & skim a bit at a time till it`s got no play... if you take more than 2thou off at a time then you may come to grief with them ending up too tight & wearing out in no-time-fast.

if you have a "feel" for the amount of play (experienced with w/brg spacer skimming) then cool, rip off 10thou if you think it`s about right,,, but then only take 2 thou skims after that, because doin it that way makes sure you can only be 2thou pre-load at worst

sorry to butt in,,, butt i had to say to do them with grease,,, then y typing fingers went rank & started on this path to describe w/brg adjustment, sorry

:-)
move along, nothing to see here

:-)

happy easter
Author:  drmini in aust [ Fri Aug 21, 2015 11:41 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Assembly of Timken style tapered rollers into front hubs
Grease em first by all means, but I leave both seals out when checking preload, as they add quite a bit of drag when new. No seals gives you a better feel for what's happening. Easy to tap them in when you are happy, but wipe the swivel hub with thinners so the recess isn't greasy. Then, they stay in, not slip back out.

I do all this work on the bench, not on the car.
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