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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:48 pm 
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High heel ninja
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Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:36 pm
Posts: 4979
Location: Radelaide, South Australia
There has been much discussion about removing a mini engine & whats involved, heres a guide of how to do it

The victim, my Mk1 Cooper S
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Try to have a tidy work area, spend 1/2 cleaning up & sweeping the floor
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I like to have my tools clean & organised
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Now onto the process, step 1 disconnect the battery
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Open the bonnet & remove the 4 7/16 headed nuts on the bonnet hinges, tip put some sheet foam or a folded up rag under the corners of the bonnet to prevent scrathes
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Remove the grill, on rounnoses theres 4 screws, on a clubman there 7 also remove the bonnet closing panel on a clubman
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Safely jack up the car & put study axles stands under & lower onto stands
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Drain engine oil, sump plug is located on the front left of the engine, a 15/16 socket or spanner is needed
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This is not uncommon, the sump plugs are magnetised so stray bits of metal stick to it
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Remove the front wheels
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If fitted remove the brake booster & steel brake pipes that plumb it to the brake system
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A magnet on a stick helps to avoid dropping nuts into engine bay
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Tip, a wheel stud screwed into the master cylinder & 3 way junction stops brake fluid loss
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Now for the carby, if fitted with a weber, remove it complete with the manifold, if a single or twin Su's a fitted, remove the necks off the carbs
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Undo top engine steady bolts & swing steady out of the way, Note some minis have another steady on the right side, remove this one
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Disconnet the battery cable & wires from the solenoid, if needed mark the wires to where they go, or take pics before disconnecting, disconnect temp gauge, alternator & coil wires
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If fitted disconnect oil pressure gauge piping & move aside


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If fitted remove oil cooler & piping
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unbolt clutch slave master cylinder & move aside

Undo both heater hoses & move aside

Under the car now

On remote gear boxes undo the 4 9/16 headed bolts & slip of remote housing

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For rod change selector, put the car into reverse & tap the roll pin out of the sleeve, then remove the 1/2 headed bolt from the upper arm & remove

There are many styles of extractors all have the own way of coming apart im sure you can work out how to get them apart, on a standard maniflod, remove the 2 bolts & the clamp & seperate the manifold & exhaust
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Universals, there are 3 types of mini universals, hardy spicers, rubber style & pot joint

In this cars case it has hardy spicer uni's, undo the 4 1/2 headed nylon nuts & move uni aside
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Rubber uni style, undo the 8 1/2 headed nuts, remove the U bolts & uni

Pot joint, you need to undo & break the taper on the bottom ball joint & remove ball joint from control arm & pop driveshaft out of the pot joint

Undo engine mounts
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Underside of the car should be done now

Undo the earth strap
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Attach your engine lifting bracket

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Engine is ready to come out now, attach your lifter, block & tackle etc etc
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Begin lifting the engine, on remote style gearbox you need to tilt the engine as it lifts to clear the firewall

Once up high enough, disconnect speedo cable
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Engine should be clear of car now
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This is roughly what you sholud be left with
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Depending on how many times you've done this, it can take anywhere from 1/2 hour to 10 hours.

This is a rough guide, it's how i remove a mini engine, im aware other have their own ways of doing it but hopefully this helps you a little

A few of these does'nt hurt either
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Good luck
Doogie

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Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.


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