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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:57 am 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Have a look at the image below, I used a piece of square section tube. I laid it across the cross member and marked my holes. I used the suspension tower mounts, but next time would use the heater and brake master cylinder holes instead, it allows more access and avoids the need for looooong bolts.

I had to insert a piece in between the that and the round tube as you can see to adjust the rolling center to clear the lower lip of the speedo hole.

The U-bolt you see needed to be tack welded to the tube, as there's not enough braking force available from just one to lock the shell in place. The same occurs in the back of the car, but I use the holes the shock absorbers/ hydro return springs attach to.

There are holes in the engine stands so that you may rotate and lock an engine block in place, I drilled through the steel pipe once it was in place to allow the same to happen with the shell.

You can knock up a purpose rotisserie from steel just as easily and save about a hundred dollars into the bargain over the one I made. This one was created however in about 45 minutes, and didn't need a drop saw or heavy use of a welder. Its a slightly easier process for a quick stand if you are not prepared (or have the room) for a bit of extra heavy fabrication in the workshop.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:14 pm 
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Location: Inner West, Sydney
Mick wrote:
You can knock up a purpose rotisserie from steel just as easily and save about a hundred dollars into the bargain over the one I made. This one was created however in about 45 minutes, and didn't need a drop saw or heavy use of a welder. Its a slightly easier process for a quick stand if you are not prepared (or have the room) for a bit of extra heavy fabrication in the workshop.


Cheers for the explanation :) I might be able to borrow a couple of engines stands, which would just leave the pole / attaching part of the process. Not having any welding skills whatsoever, this might be the safer way to go... :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:14 pm 
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Location: Port Noarlunga, SA
Thnks for the idead guys, Thinking of getting engine stands and constructing a U shape bracket that goes under the front apron and bolts onto the subframe mounts front and back in order to the the centre of gravity right for easier rotation. Still a work in progress, doin the measurements tonight will see how it goes.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:17 pm 
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sgc and afh001 im verry jellous of your shed/workshops :( :evil: haha


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 6:16 pm 
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Location: Albury NSW
Can you tell me what pipe diameter you are using, and how high the pipe needs to be off the ground to allow the shell of a mini to turn 360 with hitting the ground.

Many Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:37 pm 
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Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
This is the rotisserie I am using for a clubman with no speedo or back seat holes.
Image

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The balance is great and reasonable easy to spin until I add the doors and a few other items.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 8:34 pm 
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Location: Albury NSW
centre pipe diameter??

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 8:06 am 
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Moriarty wrote:
Cheers for the explanation :) I might be able to borrow a couple of engines stands, which would just leave the pole / attaching part of the process. Not having any welding skills whatsoever, this might be the safer way to go... :lol:


The one Michaelb is using (pics above) is mine. You can borrow that once he has finished with it if you like. I'm in no rush to get it back.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 8:12 am 
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Quote:
You can borrow that once he has finished with it


Probably be finished with it by Christmas or early new year?
Hope to get the car to the paint shop in the next few weeks barring any unexpected disruptions.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged) :)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 11:45 am 
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michaelb wrote:
Hope to get the car to the paint shop in the next few weeks barring any unexpected disruptions.


I for one cannot wait to see it..!!!! :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 12:22 pm 
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IwannaMini wrote:
The one Michaelb is using (pics above) is mine. You can borrow that once he has finished with it if you like. I'm in no rush to get it back.

Mine is a roundy - bolts to the same places? I will be replacing front floors and one rear floor pan - will the diagonal struts to the front floor give me grief?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 3:13 pm 
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Moriarty wrote:
IwannaMini wrote:
The one Michaelb is using (pics above) is mine. You can borrow that once he has finished with it if you like. I'm in no rush to get it back.

Mine is a roundy - bolts to the same places? I will be replacing front floors and one rear floor pan - will the diagonal struts to the front floor give me grief?


Dunno.... :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:38 pm 
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Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
Quote:
will the diagonal struts to the front floor give me grief?


They bolt into the subframe mounting holes, so I guess it depends how far forward are you replacing the floor?

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged) :)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 7:49 am 
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michaelb wrote:
Quote:
will the diagonal struts to the front floor give me grief?


They bolt into the subframe mounting holes, so I guess it depends how far forward are you replacing the floor?


Pretty far forward...check the quality of the repairs by previous owner / owners :cry:

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