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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:44 pm 
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:oops:
shucks mister!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:50 pm 
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micowen wrote:
:oops:
shucks mister!


I'm just writing what your not saying :wink: or beating you to it :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:02 pm 
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Mick wrote:
PK and others,
Stone chips and other small chips in 2k finishes, is there a good technique to touching these up and finishing so as they cannot be seen again?


To be honest, the only difference I think between a 2K fix up, and the great post that Phat layed out for us is (for me) the use of blending in thinners if you dont go right to the edge of a panel, clear paint over the repair (if it originally had it),the use of better PPE, and the absolute must is a spray booth!
Blending in thinners, in laymens terms, help the new paint "bite" into the old paint over the blend areas, making the blending that little more seamless, assuming the colour match was a good one to begin with.
Any corrections, or other thoughts welcome! :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:08 pm 
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PK, have you had any experience with the hair dryer and can of compressed air technique for small dents?

I want to try it due to the large number of 5c piece sized dings in my doors but dont want to risk damaging the paint.

Any ideas?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:55 pm 
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adamstuart wrote:
PK, have you had any experience with the hair dryer and can of compressed air technique for small dents?

I want to try it due to the large number of 5c piece sized dings in my doors but dont want to risk damaging the paint.

Any ideas?


G'day amdamstuart,

I have used that technique on plastic bumbers and on light weight panels as in on newwer cars... oh and Bike tanks sometimes, and Litre Car tanks..

On a mini, I do not know how sucessful it would be. It ""Might"" end up burning the paint before the panel gets warm enough to pop.. just because the steel is a heavier gauge...

"They don't make em' like the used too"

But, having said that, I have not tried it on a mini, it might work but I wouldn't hold much hope for it.

I have found that if you are careful, with a wood mallet like this one (Tinsmens Mallet)...

Image

... and you use a soft wood block for a dolly, you can ""sometimes"" tap out dents leaving the paint in tact. Sometime you need to give it a buff afterwards to get scuffs off, but it works..


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:25 pm 
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Just to stick my nose in this....

As for repairing stone chips and the like, especially for someone at home and using 2pac which is a much more tolerant and self sufficient paint (not to mention toxic!), how about the brush touch method?

Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! :) once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.

I cheat and use my airbrush for touch ups :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:11 am 
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Phat Kat wrote:

On a mini, I do not know how sucessful it would be. It ""Might"" end up burning the paint before the panel gets warm enough to pop.. just because the steel is a heavier gauge...

But, having said that, I have not tried it on a mini, it might work but I wouldn't hold much hope for it.



I've done the heat/ rapid cooling method on a dinner plate sized dent on the roof it popped out really well, but I wasn't concerned about the paint and was using a heat gun.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:57 am 
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MiniKit wrote:
Phat Kat wrote:

On a mini, I do not know how sucessful it would be. It ""Might"" end up burning the paint before the panel gets warm enough to pop.. just because the steel is a heavier gauge...

But, having said that, I have not tried it on a mini, it might work but I wouldn't hold much hope for it.



I've done the heat/ rapid cooling method on a dinner plate sized dent on the roof it popped out really well, but I wasn't concerned about the paint and was using a heat gun.


Thanks Minikit :) ,

There you go adamsturat, it can be done on a mini.

The other thing that you do need to remember is that it depends on the type of dent. The shape of it. If there has been any radical tight stretching it won't work, if the dent has a "point" in it it won't work (a point like you just smacked it with a pick)... so it won't work on anything.

It will work on larger dents, but only if there is little stretching and if the panel has retained its "memory". This method relies on the panels memory. If it has been ruined, it won't work.

Trixitrine wrote:
Just to stick my nose in this....

As for repairing stone chips and the like, especially for someone at home and using 2pac which is a much more tolerant and self sufficient paint (not to mention toxic!), how about the brush touch method?

Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.

I cheat and use my airbrush for touch ups :wink:


Nope poke your nose in all you want Trix, :)

This method of touch up work great too. I've done them like this With very good results. And the bonus with using a paint brush is that with 2K you don't need to spray it!! I have gotten away with it on metallics, but it can be a little bit hit and miss,, works great on solids though.

:roll: And yeah, you could do it with an air brush couldn't you Trixitrine smart arse good for nothing has "Actual" artisitc talent :lol:

Thanks Trix, I forgot all about that. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:32 am 
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I use a fine camel hair brush to touch in 2 Pack solid colour paint chips. Take my time and build the paint till its above the surface Once dry I use a small round piece of 2000 to start, glued to the bottom of a champagne cork. Easy to hold and control the spraying area.
When I was spraying for a living you used to be able to buy these things with different grades of paper from your local paint factors. Maybe they are still available

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:17 pm 
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Phat Kat wrote:
Does that help?

PK - a great help, thanks. If I end up with a botched job I'll blame it on you. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:02 pm 
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Trixitrine wrote:

Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! :) once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.


crisonic wrote:
Once dry I use a small round piece of 2000 to start, glued to the bottom of a champagne cork. Easy to hold and control the spraying area.



And do you sand and polish it wet or dry with the 2000/2500 grit paper?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:10 pm 
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winabbey wrote:
Phat Kat wrote:
Does that help?

PK - a great help, thanks. If I end up with a botched job I'll blame it on you. :)


:shock: *Gulp*


Mick wrote:
Trixitrine wrote:


Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.



crisonic wrote:
Once dry I use a small round piece of 2000 to start, glued to the bottom of a champagne cork. Easy to hold and control the spraying area.




And do you sand and polish it wet or dry with the 2000/2500 grit paper?


Hi Mick,

Dry sanding with anything finner than 400 grit gets hard... and especially for polishing you really should do it wet so that the water carries off the removed material before it scratches... Finding 2000grit Fre Cut would be difficult, most places would sell you carbide paper so... I reckon wet sanding would be your safest bet :)

But,, if crisonic or Trix reckon otherwise go nuts guys :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:18 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Hoots ;)

Cheers all!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 3:23 pm 
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Great responces here! :D
Totally forgot about the brush touch as well.
For any high spots after touching up with a brush, why not ask Phat if you can borrow his bit of $800 tungsten to knock the top off. :lol:
I'm sure hes got a couple layin around somewhere. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:56 pm 
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PK is right - always use it wet . That way it flushes the crap away as you do it as well as any dust that could cause scratches . Dont care what you say but I ALWAYS use a slow running hose without the nozzle on the end never a sponge and water.Watch out for the water police!! Finish with 2500 then compound and polish.

This opens up another How To as the finishing process is different to acrylic.
There a a number of sites on the web that explain paint rectification for 2 pak- mind you they are all happy to take your money on some pretty fancy products to help you on your way
Google "ZAS detailing" for a good read

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