Ausmini
It is currently Sat Aug 24, 2019 3:25 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 63 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:44 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:38 pm
Posts: 1650
Location: macquarie fields NSW
:oops:
shucks mister!

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:50 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:28 pm
Posts: 1553
micowen wrote:
:oops:
shucks mister!


I'm just writing what your not saying :wink: or beating you to it :lol:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:02 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:38 pm
Posts: 1650
Location: macquarie fields NSW
Mick wrote:
PK and others,
Stone chips and other small chips in 2k finishes, is there a good technique to touching these up and finishing so as they cannot be seen again?


To be honest, the only difference I think between a 2K fix up, and the great post that Phat layed out for us is (for me) the use of blending in thinners if you dont go right to the edge of a panel, clear paint over the repair (if it originally had it),the use of better PPE, and the absolute must is a spray booth!
Blending in thinners, in laymens terms, help the new paint "bite" into the old paint over the blend areas, making the blending that little more seamless, assuming the colour match was a good one to begin with.
Any corrections, or other thoughts welcome! :D

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:08 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:12 am
Posts: 3398
Location: Quakers Hill Sydney
PK, have you had any experience with the hair dryer and can of compressed air technique for small dents?

I want to try it due to the large number of 5c piece sized dings in my doors but dont want to risk damaging the paint.

Any ideas?

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:55 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:28 pm
Posts: 1553
adamstuart wrote:
PK, have you had any experience with the hair dryer and can of compressed air technique for small dents?

I want to try it due to the large number of 5c piece sized dings in my doors but dont want to risk damaging the paint.

Any ideas?


G'day amdamstuart,

I have used that technique on plastic bumbers and on light weight panels as in on newwer cars... oh and Bike tanks sometimes, and Litre Car tanks..

On a mini, I do not know how sucessful it would be. It ""Might"" end up burning the paint before the panel gets warm enough to pop.. just because the steel is a heavier gauge...

"They don't make em' like the used too"

But, having said that, I have not tried it on a mini, it might work but I wouldn't hold much hope for it.

I have found that if you are careful, with a wood mallet like this one (Tinsmens Mallet)...

Image

... and you use a soft wood block for a dolly, you can ""sometimes"" tap out dents leaving the paint in tact. Sometime you need to give it a buff afterwards to get scuffs off, but it works..


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:25 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 7:52 pm
Posts: 771
Location: Melbourne
Just to stick my nose in this....

As for repairing stone chips and the like, especially for someone at home and using 2pac which is a much more tolerant and self sufficient paint (not to mention toxic!), how about the brush touch method?

Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! :) once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.

I cheat and use my airbrush for touch ups :wink:

_________________
Image

Size DOES Matter!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:11 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:26 pm
Posts: 550
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Phat Kat wrote:

On a mini, I do not know how sucessful it would be. It ""Might"" end up burning the paint before the panel gets warm enough to pop.. just because the steel is a heavier gauge...

But, having said that, I have not tried it on a mini, it might work but I wouldn't hold much hope for it.



I've done the heat/ rapid cooling method on a dinner plate sized dent on the roof it popped out really well, but I wasn't concerned about the paint and was using a heat gun.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:57 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:28 pm
Posts: 1553
MiniKit wrote:
Phat Kat wrote:

On a mini, I do not know how sucessful it would be. It ""Might"" end up burning the paint before the panel gets warm enough to pop.. just because the steel is a heavier gauge...

But, having said that, I have not tried it on a mini, it might work but I wouldn't hold much hope for it.



I've done the heat/ rapid cooling method on a dinner plate sized dent on the roof it popped out really well, but I wasn't concerned about the paint and was using a heat gun.


Thanks Minikit :) ,

There you go adamsturat, it can be done on a mini.

The other thing that you do need to remember is that it depends on the type of dent. The shape of it. If there has been any radical tight stretching it won't work, if the dent has a "point" in it it won't work (a point like you just smacked it with a pick)... so it won't work on anything.

It will work on larger dents, but only if there is little stretching and if the panel has retained its "memory". This method relies on the panels memory. If it has been ruined, it won't work.

Trixitrine wrote:
Just to stick my nose in this....

As for repairing stone chips and the like, especially for someone at home and using 2pac which is a much more tolerant and self sufficient paint (not to mention toxic!), how about the brush touch method?

Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.

I cheat and use my airbrush for touch ups :wink:


Nope poke your nose in all you want Trix, :)

This method of touch up work great too. I've done them like this With very good results. And the bonus with using a paint brush is that with 2K you don't need to spray it!! I have gotten away with it on metallics, but it can be a little bit hit and miss,, works great on solids though.

:roll: And yeah, you could do it with an air brush couldn't you Trixitrine smart arse good for nothing has "Actual" artisitc talent :lol:

Thanks Trix, I forgot all about that. :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:32 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 8:07 am
Posts: 116
Location: Molesworth Victoria
I use a fine camel hair brush to touch in 2 Pack solid colour paint chips. Take my time and build the paint till its above the surface Once dry I use a small round piece of 2000 to start, glued to the bottom of a champagne cork. Easy to hold and control the spraying area.
When I was spraying for a living you used to be able to buy these things with different grades of paper from your local paint factors. Maybe they are still available

_________________
Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:17 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 5344
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Phat Kat wrote:
Does that help?

PK - a great help, thanks. If I end up with a botched job I'll blame it on you. :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:02 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18668
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Trixitrine wrote:

Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! :) once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.


crisonic wrote:
Once dry I use a small round piece of 2000 to start, glued to the bottom of a champagne cork. Easy to hold and control the spraying area.



And do you sand and polish it wet or dry with the 2000/2500 grit paper?

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:10 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:28 pm
Posts: 1553
winabbey wrote:
Phat Kat wrote:
Does that help?

PK - a great help, thanks. If I end up with a botched job I'll blame it on you. :)


:shock: *Gulp*


Mick wrote:
Trixitrine wrote:


Just touch on a bit of paint over the chip then once thoroughly dry, carefully sand it smooth with say 2500, maybe start with 2000 if you made a big glob but try not to! once flat (re-touch if too low) then machine buff back to polish starting with a good cutting paste then polishing compound. Remembering to keep the repair very small, as in dont go flailing about with the sandpaper and making more work for yourself buffing.



crisonic wrote:
Once dry I use a small round piece of 2000 to start, glued to the bottom of a champagne cork. Easy to hold and control the spraying area.




And do you sand and polish it wet or dry with the 2000/2500 grit paper?


Hi Mick,

Dry sanding with anything finner than 400 grit gets hard... and especially for polishing you really should do it wet so that the water carries off the removed material before it scratches... Finding 2000grit Fre Cut would be difficult, most places would sell you carbide paper so... I reckon wet sanding would be your safest bet :)

But,, if crisonic or Trix reckon otherwise go nuts guys :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:18 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18668
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Hoots ;)

Cheers all!

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 3:23 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:38 pm
Posts: 1650
Location: macquarie fields NSW
Great responces here! :D
Totally forgot about the brush touch as well.
For any high spots after touching up with a brush, why not ask Phat if you can borrow his bit of $800 tungsten to knock the top off. :lol:
I'm sure hes got a couple layin around somewhere. :wink:

_________________
Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:56 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 8:07 am
Posts: 116
Location: Molesworth Victoria
PK is right - always use it wet . That way it flushes the crap away as you do it as well as any dust that could cause scratches . Dont care what you say but I ALWAYS use a slow running hose without the nozzle on the end never a sponge and water.Watch out for the water police!! Finish with 2500 then compound and polish.

This opens up another How To as the finishing process is different to acrylic.
There a a number of sites on the web that explain paint rectification for 2 pak- mind you they are all happy to take your money on some pretty fancy products to help you on your way
Google "ZAS detailing" for a good read

_________________
Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 63 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.