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Drum Brake to Disc Brake Conversion How To
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=77858		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:53 pm ]
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sam_1100 wrote:
Did you or anyone have some more detail about fitting and assembling the calipers?
Got a fair bit done today hope to knock it over next weekend!

Well there is this one for doing the seals, in the how-to forum..
It's for a 4 pot caliper, but 2 pot are similar.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=60165
Author:  sam_1100 [ Sun Oct 14, 2012 7:53 pm ]
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This will probably be a really stupid question...but how the hell do the clips for the CV boots work!!!!!!

The ones that came off it are simple...but the new ones that you seem to also have aren't very straight forward.......
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 14, 2012 8:01 pm ]
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If they are proper metal CV clips there is a special tool you can get. However I do them with 2 pr of pliers.
Basically, you wrap the band around the boot and pull it tight through the slot, then whilst holding it tight, bend it back over, and fold the 2 tags over the band. Then, cut the band 15mm past the tags, and bent it back again and push down flat.
When finished, the cut end of the band should face away from the rotation direction.
Author:  sam_1100 [ Sun Oct 14, 2012 8:06 pm ]
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Its not quite a band as the ones that came off...

its like these

http://www.superfastminis.com/CV_BOOT_MINI.htm
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 14, 2012 8:13 pm ]
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Not seen those ones.... :?
Author:  sam_1100 [ Sun Oct 14, 2012 8:24 pm ]
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Can I just use some cable ties and keep an eye on them...or are they prone to fail
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:23 pm ]
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Prone to fail, I use em on pot joints but never on CVs now.
They are hard to get tight enough to keep a CV boot in place, and the lump on the end can rub inside the swivel hub.
Metal ones are much better, you just need to find how to tighten those particular ones.
Email the supplier? :idea:
Author:  1018cc [ Mon Oct 15, 2012 5:59 am ]
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You just link the little raised tabs into the holes while making it as tight as you can, then you sqeeze the raised section with a set of long handle adjustable pliers. There is a proper tool you can get to do it but I found they wouldn't fit properly inside the hub so I reused my old proper CV boot clamps.
Author:  sam_1100 [ Wed Oct 17, 2012 10:46 pm ]
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Cheers mate, I'll be grabbing some old style clips tomorrow to save the hassle!

Apologies for consistently bringing this thread back to life, but the job is turning out to be very tedious. (In the potential problems to encounter I'd definitely mention seized bolts and steering arm dowels!!)

All I want to confirm now is that the brake pads are just meant to loosely sit between the split pins on installation? Just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing anything...
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:21 am ]
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Yes the pads sit in there loose with the 2 pins through them.
1. make sure the pads are round the right way... :P
2. Check the split pins now and then, they are made from soft rubbish now. I lost a pad once in Barney when the pins wore through & fell out- can you say NO %^&&* brakes!!! :shock:
I now use 2 bent bits of 1/8" welding electrode instead of 3mm Chinese cheese split pins... nobody seems to sell good 1/8" split pins here now unless you buy a zillion of them.

Image
Author:  sam_1100 [ Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:50 pm ]
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Image
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On the last pic you can see where its scraping...
It appears that the steering arm (already ground some off but obviously more is needed) is interfering with the rotor, and the bottom of the hub is also scraping. Tightening just with a set of grips will be able to completely lock the hub to the rotor hence won't be going too far!
Bearings are genuine timken too, so hopefully not an issue.
Author:  1018cc [ Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:02 pm ]
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Image
That to me looks like the drive flange isn't fully home.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:46 pm ]
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Yeah the drive flange sits inside the rotor, as he said.
Or should........ :roll:
If it doesn't fit in there and sit flat we can guess where the parts were made.
Author:  sam_1100 [ Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:48 pm ]
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Thanks guys... The drive flange was the problem!
I really underestimated just how much difference was made by being slightly off!

Removing the old brake hoses though..........that's another story :twisted:

Once the brake hoses are on it's all go!
Author:  sam_1100 [ Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:42 pm ]
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Can someone explain exactly how to remove the driver side brake hose???
At the bottom of the engine bay there is obviously many components attached to the point of interest...not sure exactly how far, if at all, I have to dismantle this set up.

Also, does anyone know the exact size of the socket I would need to use on the original brake hose to remove it from the subframe?? It seems like a few fit and they all would like to round it off!
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