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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:12 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong
poeee wrote:
Oh and the Spec-R is in bits. I broke the spool (driver failure, probably hit a board at full noise). Gotta get some spares!


TQ racing seems like the best place for spec-r spares. I just made an order. Or just buy a full kit from rcmart.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:22 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Geelong, Victoria
Yeah I'll probably buy an S2 kit, then I have a whole car spare! I've bought spares directly from spec-r, though the kits are cheaper from rcmart.

I run the 3racing oil gear diffs in the m05.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 11:02 pm 
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848cc
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Lmao my tire compounds are simply called rodeoos and badlands. Mx mudders and stuff like that. Don't really change the springs in my class, just the shock oil.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:39 am 
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LeylandMIniPhil98, I was very surprised when I started racing by how serious it is. Tyre warmers, sticky compound that are put on the tyres, setup stations to set camber, toe etc, spring rates, damper angles, tyre compounds etc etc. So much to get your head around. Fortunately in the mini class it is all pretty basic and controlled. Its a great class for learning.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 4:19 pm 
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Same goes for large scale off-road. While the smaller 1/8 buggies and the 1/5 4WD cars are just as technical, my class, 1/5 26cc 2WD is quite tame. Being RWD, doesn't matter what you put on the front. As long as you don't use sand paddles, you don't notice much of a difference. It's all about the rear considering the fact that these things are born to go sideways and we're on dirt. We can change the air filter, the clutch, brake pads, exhaust and the tires. Other than shock oils and springs, we really don't need to change much else! Bajas are very much a skill of the driver class. It's way more fun when you have the skill to hold it sideways all around the corner though :D . I think the ultimate in tuning are the 1/12 tourers or the F1 cars. The things you can do to them is phenomenal...

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 4:24 pm 
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I once went to a 1/10 on road track with my nitro 1/8 buggy. I have a hobao hyper 7 and it won the World Series several times. I didn't do anything to it, had grass tires on and I was beating the tourers round the track! I had so much more power, it just whipped around the corners and because of the 4WD, I could pull it through anything. Currently I am swapping my 6 year old motor that finally cracked the block and replacing it with a much bigger and more torquey .32 (my old one was a .21).

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:55 pm 
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1275cc
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Broke mine today. Snapped an entire chunk off the chassis. Seems to be a week spot as my dad's chassis has also cracked in that spot.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:57 pm 
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What chassis was that?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 11:38 am 
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1275cc
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The standard M05 chassis. Snapped of the ear that the top RHS suspension arm mounts to. It has learnt a big hole through to the diff.

New one has been ordered. Only $7 for a replacement.
http://banzaihobby.com/radio-control/ho ... ts-chassis

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 4:31 pm 
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pics?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:45 pm 
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Oh yeah. Well that hasn't happened to me yet. I flipped mine on the road and like I said, it disintegrated in mid air. Nothing actually broke, it just fell apart. I just took off the top and bottom halves of the shock, put the spring back on and it was fine again.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:08 pm 
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The kit springs come apart all the time. It was one of my first upgrades.
I flip mine very often and it usually holds up well.

I pulled it apart today in preparation for the new parts.
This is what it should look like:
Image
Image

And now:
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:01 am 
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Wow! I've never broken a chassis, both M05 and M03.

Are you using the option front shock tower to bring the shocks out at the top (more upright)? I'm using the alloy part, and I have to bend it flat every few race meets (I hit things haha).

I have been bending rear plastic uprights. I've always used plastic on the rear, but maybe the M05 ones are softer than the M03M ones. I ran out of spares 2 race meets ago, took it off, bent it back with pliers and left it. It's still ok! Maybe a tiny bit more slop than normal, but the whole car is worn out so meh!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:34 am 
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I'm still using the standard shock towers. It seems odd that both mine and my dads chassis have Broken in exactly the same spot.

What's the best way to take the slop out of the steering. I have the tamiya alloy setup, but it's extremely sloppy. Shims? What size?
Also, do you use wheel spacers to remove slop? If so what size?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:52 am 
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Shims that come with the hardened rear axles is what I use in the steering, but don't take all the slop out.

Definitely get the the alloy front shock damper stay #54236. It will help handling. I ran the carbon ones earlier, but they snap. The alloy ones bend and can be straightened.

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