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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:23 pm 
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simon k wrote:
simon k wrote:
but Hobbyking had the m.rage on special on the weekend, so I'm putting that together now :)


it's a bit bloody fast... standard tyres that come with it aren't quite up to the job. I just transferred all of the electronics from my m05 to it


I wonder what the final drive ratio is. Being 4wd your mini tyres wouldnt be suitable either.

I had a great day racing on Sunday, besides breaking the chassis again. I'm really not that impressed with the new V2 chassis. I managed a close second in the finals. After leading most of the way, I stupidly tried to overtake someone who I had already lapped, he moved in the wrong direction and took me out (not his fault as I was overtaking), I rolled and landed on my lid and lost my 8 second lead. I managed to beat my lap record 3 times on the day, so thats a plus. I also managed to come 2nd in the 21.5 TC finals.

TIme to rebuild the mini....again.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:33 pm 
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I was just looking at the FDR for the m.rage vs the m05.

m05 = 5.79605:1
m.rage = 2.35:1

No wonder the m.rage is so fast with the 13T HW combo.
It would probably be similar in performance if it had a 21.5T motor in it.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:35 pm 
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Any of the 4wd Minis are rockets! The HW system is crazy in them-but awesome fun! :D


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 9:16 am 
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ryan wrote:
Being 4wd your mini tyres wouldnt be suitable either.


I have no idea - what do they do with tyres on 4wd touring cars?

here's what I reckon happens...

The weight bias is towards the back because that's where the motor is, so on hard acceleration it breaks traction from the front first.

This means that you want less grip at the rear, so tight diff and grippy tyres on the front and loose diff and not so grippy tyres at the back, which is the same setup as the m05 isn't it?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 9:56 am 
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In dot points, cos it's too hard to be long winded via phone!

Same tires all round. Something like a 32?
Tight front diff=some understeer, but better pull out of corners. Tight is good!
Rear diff. Needs to work like a diff, but can be a lot looser. Look on YouTube at building a TC diff and build it like that.
They are REALLY touchy on shocks/springs. Because they are going faster than an M05/3 they generate more force in corners. So you'll need to play with that. Probably more weight that transfers forwards too-so harder springs and then maybe droop on the rear to keep the tires in contact with road.

They are always fun though-just a handful until they are sorted!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 6:28 pm 
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NT is on the money.

With my touring car, I run the same tyre front and back. I use either 34's or 36's.
Rear diff I have 1000wt oil in at the moment but would like to rebuild it with 2000wt. Front has a spool so that it is locked.
If you want to get a good idea on setups, download the Alexander Hagberg Setup Station app. Its really got lots of really good info for setups

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 8:43 am 
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Team Powers 36 all round is the go to tyre for 4WD Mini.

So I'm running 13.5 Touring Car next time out... Should be fun!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 10:13 am 
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thanks :)

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 12:43 pm 
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poeee wrote:
Team Powers 36 all round is the go to tyre for 4WD Mini.

So I'm running 13.5 Touring Car next time out... Should be fun!


Have you run 13.5 before. My reflexes aren't good enough.
Are you still using the spec-r. I've just about upgraded my s1 to a r1. It's a good little car.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 12:53 pm 
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Nope, I haven't run 13.5 yet. It will still be easier than the F1 to steer!

Spec R is still going strong. It's currently mostly S1. It has the S2 floating servo mount, S2 rear diff and S2 top deck. Sway bars, alloy shock bodies and alloy clamp wheel hexes are the only hop ups. Excellent car, and annoys the hell out of everyone I beat with $600 chassis.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 3:24 pm 
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poeee wrote:
Excellent car, and annoys the hell out of everyone I beat with $600 chassis.


I love this. It amazes me that there aren't more spec-r's, Sakura and TD-10 cars on the track. They are good cars that can easily compete.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 3:30 pm 
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Let's put it this way. There is more I can get out of this chassis. I've yet to play a great deal with springs, shock oil, diff oil and suspension. So considering how fast it is as is, chucking a $600 chassis on track won't make me faster.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:16 pm 
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Raced again on the weekend, even though numbers have been low at our club. We had 4 minis on the track. I managed my fastes ever lap time by shaving off 0.9 of a second. I also increased my consistency. So I am very happy.

However, the car got louder and louder throughout the day so I will be pulling it apart and seeing what's wrong.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 8:32 pm 
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Took it apart. There was lots of gunk and bits of plastic in the gearbox. The long idler gear and the diff have both worn where they contact each other. I guess the the positive side of things is that once I rebuild it I should have a bit more speed and bring my times down even more.

I also found another crack in the chassis. This is the second time the chassis has cracked. This time it was on the drivers side front half of the chassis behind the battery. Right where it joins the back half. It didn't impact the car at all but I replaced it anyway.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 10:26 am 
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M03's do have a bit of a tendency to snap behind the motor - but you need to hit them pretty hard to make it happen!

I haven't seen an M05 snap yet - but I also haven't done a lot of racing lately to spot them!

When you rebuild the gearbox - spray it with some Silicone lube and it'll keep it going for a good while. Every race day, just spray in some more (I use the un-used motor mount bolt holes) and it'll be kept spinning nicely :)


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