Ausmini
It is currently Wed Apr 25, 2018 10:29 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 11:58 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:16 pm
Posts: 3097
Location: North of the Harbour planning my next mini project
Hi Joe,

Good to see you making better progress with the kit than I did and I will be watching your journey.

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged) :)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2013 MINI Countryman Cooper S


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 4:30 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 863
I'm dying to hear about the "cheap" part of the thread label :roll:

Cheers, Ian


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 5:43 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:28 am
Posts: 83
Location: Adelaide
1071 S wrote:
I'm dying to hear about the "cheap" part of the thread label :roll:

Cheers, Ian



me too to be honest

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----
Image
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:44 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:28 am
Posts: 83
Location: Adelaide
Little bit more progress this week. Following Matt's instruction booklet I did a fit up of the cam plate to make sure I knew what I had to do before drilling and tapping. So much thought has gone into the kit and Matt really couldn't make it much easier for his customers to ensure they can build themselves a good quality product. For example, matt supplies two alloy bungs which fit into the cam shaft ends to ensure when drilling dowel holes that the plate is perfectly centered over the cams. Just little details like that to ensure that every important step almost can't be stuffed up. The simplicity is admirable - especially when dealing with an all up rather complex build.

Anyways lets see some pictures because thats what everyone is here for!

You can see one of the dowel holes in focus here. I haven't installed any dowels just yet. Just a test fit.
Image

Took to the cover with my new Ryobi 18v grinder. Like a hot knife through butter and cutting through the magnesium based material made for a cool light show. *insert dads comment about PPE*
Image

Image

Image

A bit of a polish on the bench grinder and the cam plate looks a little bit more speccy. Might as well make everything look the part while I have the time. I'm glad I'm in no rush and can just enjoy it.
Image

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----
Image
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:30 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
Posts: 1418
Location: queensland
drmini in aust wrote:
Centre strap is only really useful on race motors, the cap can break on overrun if you overrev the engine to a zillion RPM during downshifts.
As for cap flexing, on all except (maybe) S blocks it is grey cast iron. Doesn't flex, it cracks instead.
It would rather break than bend.
I put a strap on this stroker but have not used one since.


Second this. Not necessary. In fact the issue is resolved by removal of the lower half of the thrust washer, brazing up the end of the face on the cap so you only run half of a thrust washer. Alternatively machine down the lower half of the thrust washer 10thou so no side load can be put onto the cap from the crank. The sideways flex of the cap by forces put upon it from the crank are what makes it crack. Adding a strap over the cap has the disadvantage of using longer bolts. Longer bolts, more flex.

_________________
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1967 Cooper S ex-BMC Works Bathurst
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst Lordco


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 3:49 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:28 am
Posts: 83
Location: Adelaide
Back to the subject topic!

In this photo you can see my entire yearly earnings sprawled out on the floor of my garage.

As you can see I am currently making the most of having no dependents and or responsibilities and it is absolutely fantastic!

Image

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----
Image
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:37 am 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 10988
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Neat! Love the Mamba's 8)

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 5:13 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 05, 2013 1:54 am
Posts: 403
Location: Jimboomba
That’s not fair. Why does your garage get to look so clean and tidy...

Always cool to see another twinky project! I’ve got the engine, I’ve just got to get the head and kit, then I’ll be doing mine next year. Same idea basically, less the toilet paper. Just need to get my mini on the road first, then it’s not taking up space on the shelves and I can fill them with new parts...

_________________
Why Drink And Drive When You Can Smoke Dope And Fly!?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:41 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:20 pm
Posts: 442
Location: Goulburn NSW
jpodge wrote:
Little bit more progress this week. Following Matt's instruction booklet I did a fit up of the cam plate to make sure I knew what I had to do before drilling and tapping. So much thought has gone into the kit and Matt really couldn't make it much easier for his customers to ensure they can build themselves a good quality product. For example, matt supplies two alloy bungs which fit into the cam shaft ends to ensure when drilling dowel holes that the plate is perfectly centered over the cams. Just little details like that to ensure that every important step almost can't be stuffed up. The simplicity is admirable - especially when dealing with an all up rather complex build.

Anyways lets see some pictures because thats what everyone is here for!

You can see one of the dowel holes in focus here. I haven't installed any dowels just yet. Just a test fit.
Image

Took to the cover with my new Ryobi 18v grinder. Like a hot knife through butter and cutting through the magnesium based material made for a cool light show. *insert dads comment about PPE*
Image

Image

Image

A bit of a polish on the bench grinder and the cam plate looks a little bit more speccy. Might as well make everything look the part while I have the time. I'm glad I'm in no rush and can just enjoy it.
Image




A couple of little tips:
1. Put "Speedy Sleeves" over the cam wheel bosses (if Matt hasn't done it) so the cam seals don't cut into the alloy boss and cause a leak.
2. Make a gasket for between the head plate and head.
3. Put thread seal on the 17mm bolts that hold the cam wheels on. (oil will leak out)

_________________
Dalmeny


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:08 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8578
Location: Brisbane
yeah thanks for the kind words, cheers
we like to help as much as we can, when & where we can

i use the A+ type rods on these builds & i`d suggest finding a set of those instead of using those big heavy weak lumps of things :-), but they will be ok-ish if you lop the big lumps off them too, so don`t stress

the center main cap strap thing is a bit of a mith really,,, we set the thrusts up so the lower thrusts are really thin,,, grind them down so you have approx 15-20 thou clearance,,, effectively then only using them to hold the upper-thrusts in place, this way the crank wont "push" on the lower thrusts when the crank flexes,,, this saves the bolts fatiguing, which is the big problem with high-revs & Harmonic-nodes & crank flex. it`s going to flex so i say "Let it" , it will straighten out in the higher revs again :-)... just don`t let it "push" on the lower-thrusts, therfore it won`t "wobble" the center main-cap. therfore it won`t fatigue the main-cap-bolts... Got it? (& no more tunnel boreing needed either :-) easy-peasy & we`ve been doing it that way since i was a little kid :-)

the cam will be fine if you "de-lobe" it &&& fit one of Docs "spade-drive adaptors" into the bum of it, then use a metro, spade-drive , steel-backed, hi-vol pump to suit, then all will be good

keep up the good work mate, it`ll fly :-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:16 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8578
Location: Brisbane
oh yes, & Steve is right, we have had to speedy-sleeve some of the old style pulley bosses too, sorry. worth it tho, some are softer than others.
We now have a new-kit in process with lighter pulleys, but "Steel" bosses so no groove with happen
altho the new pulleys when complete with bosses are actually lighter (by lots) than the old ones
However we are still waiting for them all to be finished
nothing wrong with the old ones after speedy-sleave tho

& yes the main-cap issue is also a matter of fitting longer bolts with a main-cap-strap,,, so again it`s something i like to do-away-with, just relieve the lower thrusts of a pile of thinckness & whack em in to simply hold the uppers in place,,, easy to do & don`t even need to be that accurate. & doesn`t cost diddly squat to do :-)

& i thought i had put in the guide to Loctite on the upper-cam-pulley-boss-bolts to stop oil leaks,,, i`ll have to check the guide now :-)
stay tuned :-)

Edit--> & we use Adaptronic ECU & our own loom & sensor package, we`ve discussed this with him but basically any after-market ECU will work so no dramas (if you have decent computer people & quality loom & sensors & someone who knows what he`s doing with the tuning), ((Hey Steve???)) :-) :-) :-)
We also have used Link & Motec ECU`s too, again with no dramas.

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 7:55 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:38 am
Posts: 296
Impressive stuff :)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 10:43 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:20 pm
Posts: 442
Location: Goulburn NSW
100% what Matt said about ECU and tuners. I should have listened. :roll:

_________________
Dalmeny


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 2:15 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:28 am
Posts: 83
Location: Adelaide
Hello again everyone! This is going to be a long post with plenty of pictures so strap in and grab a cuppa.

Apologies for my lack of responses to this thread and also thanks to everyone who has sent advice my way. I'm noting all of this down for when the time comes to crack back into it. I spent the break in Brisbane seeing the folks and I was able to drop in to see Matt Read. It was awesome to meet you Matt and check out the shop. My god it was awesome. We could've chatted all day but I didn't want to keep him from the hordes of customers wanting to tap into his expertise.

In terms of building the twin cam motor, there hasn't been any progress of the physical sense since I've last posted but I have been doing plenty of work on the car itself. You all saw the huge array of bits I had to add to the car, brakes, suspension and seats. I didn't think it'd take me too long to get all that installed - maybe a weekend or two. Cheese and rice was I wrong about that.

I decided to start with the back end and getting the suspension and brakes in. I had hilos, new shocks, bearings and new drum assemblies to install. Easy peasey. I started at about 11pm on friday night and got the shock off from the drivers side no worries. Of course the passenger side requires the fuel tank to be wiggled out of the way to access the top mount for the shock. I wiggled the tank (25L full) out of the way and couldn't quite get the shock off so I called it quits and went to bed. I woke up the next morning and could smell a very strong scent of petrol. My bedroom is on the 3rd floor and of course the garage is on the bottom floor. Something has gone horribly wrong. I've gone downstairs to the living room and I nearly fell over the scent was so strong. When I got to the crime scene in the garage I knew exactly what had happened. When I wiggled the fuel tank out of the way I had pinched and busted the fuel line. I didn't notice the leak the night prior because I had the cap off the tank and spilled a bit out the top when wiggling it out of the way. The worst part was that I put carpet down in the garage to protect the brand new painted concrete floor of the rental. I sat there with my brain cells melting as I thought about what you do when you spill 25L of leaded petrol on carpet. Time was ticking as my house was ready to go High Order and explode at any time. I cut the carpet out where it was petrol sodden and threw it away. Man! What a downer as I had only just begun this huge job. Anyway. Lets get some pictures.

The back finally all put together. Note where I had to cut the carpet out from.

Image

On to the front. Everything is made difficult when working with minis because everything is absolutely stuffed from being so old and not being cared for before. Taking the brake line off, the line had rusted to the hose. Sure enough it ended up snapping the hard line. Damn it. Time to learn a new skill of making hard lines up.

Image

Many failed attempts later and I finally got it sorted after getting some advice from guys at ABS. Brand new 7.5" 4 pot cross drilled brakes on. I bought these from Minisport Uk and they came assembled. Sure enough I had to change all the boots in the process.

Image

Here she is looking fat and squished. I know many won't be a fan of this look but I really like it.

Image

Time to get the flares fitted and painted. Gloss black to match the roof.

Image

Off for a wheel alignment at Beaurepairs at Port Adelaide. A young guy that worked there at the time helped me out, Matt was his name. Absolute champion. Knew his stuff about minis.

Image

I thought I would paint the back seats black to match the new velos. They used to be brown and I used vinyl paint by Duplicolor. I really like this stuff and it's very hard wearing, doesn't flake and is very flexible. I painted my headliner with it years ago and it looks sharp.

Image

Time to fit the Velos. The passenger one is fixed and is bolted to the floor. There are big flat plates underneath to spread the load. It's very similar to a seatbelt mount. The drivers seat uses Cobra rails and can slide forward and backward. I'm not as happy as I'd like to be as there is a bit of flex in the cobra rails but it's more than solid enough for a run about street car.

Image

New carpet fitted. Not too happy with the fitment or quality of the carpet but for $150 what can you expect. Looks better than before so I'm happy enough. Also fitted a steering wheel lowering bracket from JB Fabrication. Sweet!

Image

Image

I took it for a spin the other night and I've really happy with how it feels. Although, there is a noise coming from the drive line somewhere. I thought it was a cable tie end from the CV boot knocking the hub or the brake pads rattling in the caliper. It seems to happen with every rotation of the wheel and I'm not sure if it's from one side or both sides. I greased the CV's before installing them and I've no idea what else it could be. has anyone got any ideas? It just sounds like a very small knock with each rotation of the wheel/driveshaft. When I jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand it doesn't seem to make the noise. Maybe it's a wheel weight knocking perhaps and only occurs when there's weight on wheels? What else could it be?

I also may have gotten side tracked recently and added to the collection. I love the morris minis and have always been on the lookout for one. Recently I saw one pop up in Adelaide for $6000.

Image

It's a complete car minus the rear bumper and the electronics has been completely redone by someone in the past and it looks like they must've been an automotive electrician. It is VERY tidy. I went to check out the car and found rust in the usual spots - small holes in the boot under the tyre, a little bit in both floor pans, some in the lower parts of the doors and some in the passenger A pillar (I think that's what it's called). It needs a fair bit of work to get it up to a really nice standard and it didn't run for very long and to start it it needed some petrol squirted down the intake.I told Mr. Seller when I went to check it out that I'd only be in the market for $4500 maximum and even then would have to think about it. Besides, I really want to get this twin cam engine done soon. Without any hesitation whatsoever Mr. Seller said he'd accept $4500. Gee whiz I thought. Now I'm going to have to really think about it.
A couple of days later I called Mr Seller and offered $4000 and said I'd have it off his hands by the end of the week. "Deal" he said - "Oh man.. what have I done" I said. Sweet though! What a bargain.

I had a chance to have a fiddle with it the other day. I pulled the carb off and it was all gunked up (1.5" SU on an 850 that's supposedly bored out). Combined with a new battery now it starts and runs like an absolute champion and I'm really happy with it. What's the overall plan with this one? Not too sure right now. I gave it a wash today and here she is now.

Image

Image

Image

Next time I'll stay on topic and show you guys some engine stuff!!

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----
Image
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 3:35 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:56 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Melbourne
jpodge wrote:
It just sounds like a very small knock with each rotation of the wheel/driveshaft. When I jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand it doesn't seem to make the noise.


I had a similar issue a while ago, when you jack the car up the suspension/driveshaft drops, try lifting the wheel up while it is jacked up and you might find it is the zip tie on the boots but it only hits when the wheel is at the normal driving height.

_________________
2015 Ducati 899 Panigale


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AJH and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.