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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:38 pm 
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Paddy wrote:
jpodge wrote:
It just sounds like a very small knock with each rotation of the wheel/driveshaft. When I jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand it doesn't seem to make the noise.


I had a similar issue a while ago, when you jack the car up the suspension/driveshaft drops, try lifting the wheel up while it is jacked up and you might find it is the zip tie on the boots but it only hits when the wheel is at the normal driving height.


Check the 4 screws holding the rotor to the drive flange are tight. If loose you can get creaking noises.
I knock them up with an impact screwdriver.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 11:56 am 
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Paddy wrote:
jpodge wrote:
It just sounds like a very small knock with each rotation of the wheel/driveshaft. When I jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand it doesn't seem to make the noise.


I had a similar issue a while ago, when you jack the car up the suspension/driveshaft drops, try lifting the wheel up while it is jacked up and you might find it is the zip tie on the boots but it only hits when the wheel is at the normal driving height.


One of the cable tie ends on the hub was definitely knocking so I swapped it with a smaller cable tie which seems to have gotten rid of that noise.

drmini in aust wrote:
Paddy wrote:
jpodge wrote:
It just sounds like a very small knock with each rotation of the wheel/driveshaft. When I jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand it doesn't seem to make the noise.


I had a similar issue a while ago, when you jack the car up the suspension/driveshaft drops, try lifting the wheel up while it is jacked up and you might find it is the zip tie on the boots but it only hits when the wheel is at the normal driving height.


Check the 4 screws holding the rotor to the drive flange are tight. If loose you can get creaking noises.
I knock them up with an impact screwdriver.


Doc I think you've hit the nail on the head. I pulled the drivers side wheel off first to give those screws a knock with the impact driver. They seemed tight enough and couldn't tell if I got them any tighter. The passenger side however was completely loose and I was able to wind them out all the way with my fingers!! So I lock tightened them and gave them a good nip with the impact driver. Just about to head up to Cudlee Creek so hopefully the noises are gone.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 12:31 pm 
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Buying a house halfway through an engine build was a horrible idea - nevertheless, my wallet has slightly recovered so that means progress and time for an update!

I'm doing away with the rods that I initially got hold of for the build and have since bought some MaXpeeding forged rods from the US. A new wedged crank and minisport ultralight flywheel is also on the way.

I finally found time to drop the cylinder head and the block off to Chris Milton Engine Engine Developments just north of Adelaide. I walked in holding the bimmer head and Sam, the GM, says "that doesn't happen to be for a mini, does it?". I knew right there and then that I'd come to the right place. While he hadn't helped out with one of these builds before, he'd definitely heard of them and was keen to give me a hand. I'm getting sam to do a general service of the head, weld up the old oil returns and also weld in the lower seal for the front plate.

The bimmer head that I've got is slightly different to the ones I've seen on this forum previously and doesn't seem to have the same oil feed on the underside of the head? I think what I've pointed to in the below picture is the old oil feed.

Image

As that's most likely going to over hang the block I'm getting that little square hole welded up and just going to run an external oil feed from the mini oil pump straight to this oil feed.

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That begs the next question - which of the bungs in the block is the oil feed that I'll tap into? I see a brass bolt and a steel one? I'd assume its the brass one but would like a sanity check please!

Image


More pictures to come when shiny bits arrive and I hear from the engine shop!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:07 pm 
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I may be wrong but that brass plug is water.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 10:14 pm 
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One of those is in an oil gallery, but it's on the suction side of the pump so no good for a feed.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 4:50 pm 
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Go fast bits recently turned up in the mail. Crank and flywheel courtesy of oz.minisport

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I dropped these off to the engine shop and they're more than keen to crack into it which makes me happy too.

I'm still not too sure about the where the oil feed will come from on the block side?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 7:33 am 
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Use the oil pressure gauge connection or drill and tap the front of the main oilway for a brass fitting. Below water pump.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 8:52 am 
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It's about time I provide an update on the progress of this build!

First off there were some niggling issues that had to be sorted at the engine shop. Firstly, the maxspeeding rods didn't fit the crank - I accidentally bought Cooper S rods for a standard 1275 crankshaft!. They were simply too wide at the big end!! I don't know why i didn't check before I sent it to the shop. An expensive mistake on my behalf buut we live and learn. Anyway, we had to resort to the standard cast rods. (Thanks to simon k for the info of Cooper S crank vs standard crank! :) )
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No big deal, just some wasted time and money. Not sure what I'll do with them now as the seller isn't keen to refund/accept a return. The other rods scrubbed up nicely and were fitted with ARP hardware and were crack tested with no dramas.

Image

The head has had magic worked on it by the guys at the shop and, while I'm yet to have it sent to me, it looks like they've done a good job. I'll let the pictures do the talking.

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SO! In the midst of all of this going on, I've moved to NSW and most importantly I've got a much bigger place with a workshop apptly sized for the mini! Happy days!

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Keep not holding your breath for the next update. Most likely when the engine and bits get shipped from the SA based engine shop to me here on the east coast.

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-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


Last edited by jpodge on Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 12:06 pm 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
I love how a Mini makes a small workshop look huge. Mine is very cramped with the Mini and the Soarer in it now.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 7:03 pm 
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The bits got sent from the engine shop today on it's way to me in Newcastle. Fingers crossed it gets here soon!! Updates to follow

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 5:21 pm 
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An update - finally!
First thing up after getting the goodies back from the shop is to figure out my compression ratio. I measured the head combustion chamber in at 18cc.... This seems a little low compared to the standard 28cc for the head and 22cc i've seen others get here on the forum. I used a small square of glass, sealing the edge with vaseline and measured 1cc at a time.
Image
To me it looks like a pretty standard sized chamber even though it's had some meat taken off of it. Next up is measuring the fly cuts for the pistons when time allows.

Sealing plate all welded up
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Aeroflow bungs fitted
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Proudly perched on my new workbench. Those rods started to rust pretty quick. Still getting used to the daily struggle of living next to the beach when it comes to rust!
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Like with any project motivation ebbs and flows. To boost it, today I gave the block a fresh lick of paint and did a dummy up.
Image
Image

More updates to come shortly! (I hope)

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-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 8:37 pm 
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Wow, that head absolutely dwarfs the block, but that’s where all the power is produced so I guess it stands to reason !

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 8:31 pm 
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Looks great mate, keep it up and I'd love to see this run.

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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 7:59 pm 
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Awesome work!

Thats a big move from SA to Newy

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:25 pm 
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Thanks for the kind words gents and I appreciate the patience of everyone who is helping me out along the way. Anyways - here's the latest.

I revisited measuring the combustion volume and got the following
-13cc for the piston with fly cuts
-17cc for the cylinder head chamber
assuming ~2cc for the head gasket works out for a compression ratio of about 10.8. Cool - or should I go higher?

Piston rings gapped. 0.011" for the top ring and 0.014" for the second.
Image

I've decided to use an external oil feed line that Matt is currently making up for me that feeds up into the back of the head - simple. The oil return isn't particularly difficult but has been consuming my time lately. I've seen on Steve's build that two barbs were tapped into the block just below the the head returns. I like this setup because it's simple but am not interested in drilling into the block and am starting to think about how difficult it may be to try and change a hose/pipe in that location. Anyway, here is what I've played with so far.

Image

A pretty rudimentary setup that I mocked up with some RHS and a fuel pump blanking plate. The first prototype was pretty ugly but you get the idea.

Image

Image

Slightly refining that prototype came this,

Image

The final design is this one

Image

It's not perfect but I'm confident it will do the trick of draining the oil that is fed through the single feed line down into the crank case. The drain into the block will look nicer than a bunch of randomly drilled holes like the prototype was I assure you!

I don't think crank case pressure is going to be an issue as I will have the standard crank case breather on the flywheel housing and will add another one somewhere else as well. This should be able to handle the volume of oil flow noting that there is only a single feed line to the head.

Matt I want to see your go to solution for oil drains! :)

Cheers,
joe

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-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-


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