Check the 4 screws holding the rotor to the drive flange are tight. If loose you can get creaking noises.
I knock them up with an impact screwdriver.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.

One of the cable tie ends on the hub was definitely knocking so I swapped it with a smaller cable tie which seems to have gotten rid of that noise.



Doc I think you've hit the nail on the head. I pulled the drivers side wheel off first to give those screws a knock with the impact driver. They seemed tight enough and couldn't tell if I got them any tighter. The passenger side however was completely loose and I was able to wind them out all the way with my fingers!! So I lock tightened them and gave them a good nip with the impact driver. Just about to head up to Cudlee Creek so hopefully the noises are gone.

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-----Better is the enemy of good-----

-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-

Buying a house halfway through an engine build was a horrible idea - nevertheless, my wallet has slightly recovered so that means progress and time for an update!

I'm doing away with the rods that I initially got hold of for the build and have since bought some MaXpeeding forged rods from the US. A new wedged crank and minisport ultralight flywheel is also on the way.

I finally found time to drop the cylinder head and the block off to Chris Milton Engine Engine Developments just north of Adelaide. I walked in holding the bimmer head and Sam, the GM, says "that doesn't happen to be for a mini, does it?". I knew right there and then that I'd come to the right place. While he hadn't helped out with one of these builds before, he'd definitely heard of them and was keen to give me a hand. I'm getting sam to do a general service of the head, weld up the old oil returns and also weld in the lower seal for the front plate.

The bimmer head that I've got is slightly different to the ones I've seen on this forum previously and doesn't seem to have the same oil feed on the underside of the head? I think what I've pointed to in the below picture is the old oil feed.



As that's most likely going to over hang the block I'm getting that little square hole welded up and just going to run an external oil feed from the mini oil pump straight to this oil feed.



That begs the next question - which of the bungs in the block is the oil feed that I'll tap into? I see a brass bolt and a steel one? I'd assume its the brass one but would like a sanity check please!




More pictures to come when shiny bits arrive and I hear from the engine shop!

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----

-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-

I may be wrong but that brass plug is water.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

One of those is in an oil gallery, but it's on the suction side of the pump so no good for a feed.

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*witty signature*

Go fast bits recently turned up in the mail. Crank and flywheel courtesy of oz.minisport





I dropped these off to the engine shop and they're more than keen to crack into it which makes me happy too.

I'm still not too sure about the where the oil feed will come from on the block side?

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----

-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-

Use the oil pressure gauge connection or drill and tap the front of the main oilway for a brass fitting. Below water pump.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank @7000+, 45 Dellorto, RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. Going harder with Stealth Black Box in.