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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 7:56 pm 
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848cc
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absolutely love this! awesome work :D


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2018 7:37 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 3123
Location: Wollongong, NSW
Thanks Craig.

I'm hoping to get them done by April next year in time for my birthday and only 5 years after picking them up! I wasn't in too much of a hurry to get them done as my current 998 was working well, but now that it is on the way out I'm keen to get the 1100 done soon.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 7:32 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
I painted the outside of the gearbox case
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I started watching the video here on how to reassemble a remote gearbox and decided to get started. I now have the reverse gear and the shift levers installed.
https://youtu.be/BYoM33pWEmA
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I put the shifter housing on and I was able to move through all the gear positions. Next up is to sort out the main gear cluster
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 11:44 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 3123
Location: Wollongong, NSW
The rest of December was a bit of a fail:

The shift rod bushing in the top of the diff housing was pretty worn out so it needs to be replaced. I also found the reverse selector rod was a bit tight in the case, so I need to get another one of them..
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Next up the brand new competition layshaft I'd bought 2 years ago didn't fit. I couldn't get the layshaft through the laygear with the bearings installed, and when I tried the shaft in the bare case it wouldn't turn easily to line up with the retaining clip. Some further investigation revealed the brand new shaft was bent :x

I had a holiday over Christmas and came back in January full of energy to get the gearbox sorted. Luckily Justin who lives local to me was able to sort me out. He is able to press the new bushings into the diff housing and has helped me to source the parts to get everything done!

The laygear was trial fitted using a perfect secondhand shaft and shimmed with the thrust washers. It now spins freely, which is a bonus!
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Lots of fun times ahead!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:28 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
This afternoon was very productive, as Justin had brought back the re-bushed diff cover and a couple of parts that I was missing. A couple of hours later the main assembly was all complete!

The magic wand shift is really nice too, very little slop and very easy to select all the gears!
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The shift throw is 7cm from neutral to get into gear, which is pretty good!
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Left to go is:
Speedo drive cover to be bolted on when I find the studs
Diff to assemble and install
Centre oil pickup to be bolted in
Clean up flywheel housing + drill and tap for breather
Install idler gear bearings + check the end float

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 7:47 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:38 am
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Stir my pudding haha Drive em they are great


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 6:41 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 3:29 pm
Posts: 750
Location: Brisbane QLD
Nice work well done!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 1:37 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
Thanks guys!

The next job on the list was assembling the diff. I've been putting this off for a while as one of the diff bearing inner races was seized onto the crownwheel. I had a similar thing happen a few years ago when I was replacing a rear wheel bearing. There wasn't enough metal overhanging on the rear to pull it off with a bearing puller, so I had to get the angle grinder out.
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When you grind through far enough it'll crack all the way through and release the tension.
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Finally free of the race! I ended up deciding on a 3.44 ratio
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I'd assembled a diff before, and this one went back together very smoothly. When Justin had the diff cage he made some reliefs in the diff cage to accept the later A+ style planetary thrust washers. The benefit of these is they have a tab to stop the thrust washers from spinning with the planetary gears. This means the diff cage won't wear out, which is nice as good ones can be hard to find.
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So now the diff is ready to go back in, next I need to get some new diff bearings and clean up the diff side covers.

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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 5:26 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon May 06, 2019 5:29 pm
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Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
:D great thread Timmy. I'm going to base my build on yours. Unfortunately I don't trust myself with much of it, so it's going to cost me $$$$. Really keen to hear how yours runs when you get it fired up. Keep us posted please.


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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 8:11 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
clip wrote:
:D great thread Timmy. I'm going to base my build on yours. Unfortunately I don't trust myself with much of it, so it's going to cost me $$$$. Really keen to hear how yours runs when you get it fired up. Keep us posted please.

Thanks Clip. Most of it is pretty straightforward but there are a couple of little tricks here and there. This is my first mini engine and gearbox so I’m learning a lot!

I just have to get a couple of things checked on the block and pistons before I can begin assembly, so hopefully I’ll have that sorted soon.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 7:25 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong, NSW
I had a busy day in the garage today! The engine block got a good scrub, threads cleaned out and a coat of paint
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I did a quick mock up for couple of inspiration photos, hopefully it'll be together again soon, but I'm really happy with the look  :D  
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I installed the crank and checked the end float. I bought original size thrust washers a few years ago and they turned out to be too loose. I got some +003 oversize thrust washers and now the end float is in spec. This block came back from the engine shop with no additional external parts fitted and it had been a couple of years since I stripped them so I wasn't quite sure which parts went where. Luckily I had a spare 998 block set aside so I was able to get an oil pressure relief assembly, oil feed banjo bolt, distributor drive and housing and a whole selection of nuts and bolts. 
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So next:
Replace the cam bearings (all the engine bearings that were initially available were cheap King bearings and now I've got ACL bearings to replace them all)
Install cam + oil pump
Install timing gears + modify to suit duplex chain
Build one good rocker assembly from the two I have + find a set of pushrods
Install welch plugs

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 5:52 pm 
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1275cc
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I had a hand on Monday (public holiday) to change the cam bearings. The ones already in the block were OK, but I wanted to change them all to new ACL bearings for peace of mind as they are very cheap in the grand scheme of things. When they were done I gave the block another good clean out to make sure there was no debris anywhere

I put the crank in and put the pistons into the block. The piston to deck clearance is spot on, which is good. I had the pulley on the end of the crank here to make it easier to turn over
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Next up:
Install cam
Clean and paint front timing plate + tappet covers

I am still deciding what to do with the tappet covers. I have 2 flat covers with no breather, which will suit the ultimate engine steady on the LHS of the engine bay. The extra top engine steady will probably be a good idea with the magic wand gearbox. If I find a tappet cover with a breather it won't fit with the extra engine steady, but I will have breathing ports on the clutch housing and rocker cover..

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:31 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:38 am
Posts: 617
Location: Brandy Hill, NSW
What is the best way to remove and replace the cam bearings?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:43 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:07 pm
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Location: Lemmings, everywhere.
You have put the selector "knuckle" on the gearbox selector shaft on upside down. The bolt head faces up, not down.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 9:23 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 3123
Location: Wollongong, NSW
cooperess wrote:
What is the best way to remove and replace the cam bearings?

You need a couple of round punches exactly the right size to press them in the right distance. I’m sure most machine shops would be able to do it for a small amount
850man wrote:
You have put the selector "knuckle" on the gearbox selector shaft on upside down. The bolt head faces up, not down.

Cheers, I’ll fix that up before it goes into the car. Makes sense so it won’t fall out if it gets loose.

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