After fart-arseing about with my clutch for the last few weeks I've decided to ask you lot for some advise (last resort, naturally ). It's a new Cooper S clutch I installed it 6 months ago. It worked fine until a couple of weeks ago when I decided it was time for a little adjustment as reverse was sometimes disagreeing. Adjust it, fine I get pickup half way and reverse is good. About a day later it is *CRAP* and reverse isn't working because there isn't sufficient clutch. Adjust it again, fine, then the same thing happens. I adjusted it 3 times on my trip to Wakefield (only adjusting the pushrod length though so it's only temporary). I'm having trouble getting it adjusted at all now.

So what am I doing wrong? I adjust the stop correctly, I've even let the throw out stop out a bit to be sure I have enough clutch. I took the arm out and it seemed better when I put it back in (although I did nothing). All I can think of is wear in the shuttle (last time I replaced it there was basically a hole worn in it).

Ideas?

Anto.

Unless it's low on fluid, symptoms indicate the ball end on bottom of the clutch arm is cracked, bending and about to break....
Yeah, I've been there. Take it out for a look.... and if it is cracked don't try welding it- get a new one.

<edit> do make sure the stop nuts on the throwout shaft are not done up too tight, and restricting travel. If the arm is not cracked/bent I'd undo the stop nuts a couple of turns for a test, and try again. It won't hurt anything. Lots of racers leave the stop nuts off anyhow, to save weight...!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Re the throw out nut, that is what I have done Hasn't made much difference so far. I have taken the arm out, it shows a little sign of wear but not too bad (of course even a small amount equates to large pedal travel). The arm is new about a year ago. Judging by the condition of the shuttle last time I replaced it, it seems to me that the arm is made out of higher grade metal than the shuttle? Seriously, my last shuttle had a clutch arm ball sized hole worn in it! The thing I don't understand is that people drive Minis round for years on end without replacing a clutch, so I couldn't possibly be up for a shuttle/bearing/arm replacement after only a small amount of time. The bearing is becoming a bit noisy though....

Perhaps I'll try bleeding the clutch fluid - I haven't ever touched the clutch hydrolics since purchasing the car - not even topped it up (because it hasn't got low).

Cheers,
Anto.

It is possible.... but if you have been driving around for months its probably OK (except if the fluid has somehow become contaiminated and exihibiting odd, maybe temperature related bahaviour????)

Its bound to be the throwout, lever, ball end etc I believe they are very tricky to get right sometimes.

I'm off to bed, maybe we won't be seeing you tomorrow for the Araluen run??...bummer

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"Show me the Mini!"

I'd bleed the clutch first- if fluid is old, keep bleeding and topping up until it comes through clean.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

From my experience today on the Araluen run I think my adjustable pushrod may have been at fault. That was a locknut?! Never realised.... Anyway I reckon the problem was that the pushrod was shortening itself - to the point where the slave cylinder piston was pushing against the circlip limited clutch travel - hence not allowing enough clutch. Clutch now works, but the pedal is a bit high. I'll adjust properly soon and hope for the best! I'll probably remove the adjustable pushrod and put a normal fixed one in - shouldn't need to adjust it anyway!

Cheers,
Anto.

where did u get an adjustable push rod from?

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lookin for another clubby

After high mileage and a few engine rebuilds (flywheel lapped further onto crank) it's common for the clutch slave pushrod to run out of stroke as the piston hits the circlip.
3 methods to fix:
1. Weld a bit onto the pushrod. or,
2. Heat clutch arm with oxy and bend in. or,
3. Leave the bloody circlip out of the slave cylinder- it does SFA anyhow.

Sometimes even fitting a new clutch arm doesn't solve it and you have to resort to suggestions above.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The adjustable pushrod, or 'pushrodis adjustaradis' is a mythical creature rumoured to have lived in the mountainous regions of Norway. However with the recent scientific advancements in genetic engineering, mad scientists have been making adjustable pushrods using three toothpicks, some tie wire and some resin flux......

In other words, I have NFI where it came from, it was on the car when I got it

Cheers,
Anto.

Okay guys hopefully if I have time this weekend I am up for clutch bearing replacement (I want to do it *before* it shatters, unlike last time).

My question: should I replace the bearing shuttle anyway? I haven't checked for wear yet (if it's significant it gets replaced regardless). The main problem I see is seperating the old bearing and installing the new one - much easier when you have new parts to work with, but also double the cost!

I figure if I'm going to be dismantling half of the engine anyway I may as well do the job properly so I don't have to do it again! Unfortunately I've lost my custom bent 1/2" spanner designed for clutch housing removal so I'll have to make another

Anto.

I'd fit a new release bearing if clutch is coming apart. All you need is a vice, a BFH, a big drift (old layshafts are good!).
Use the vice and a socket to press the new bearing on- hitting with a BFH doesn't help their lifespan....
And I'd avoid Jap made release bearings like the plague. Last one I used lasted 3 weeks... if it don't say `made in UK' I don't buy it..
RHP bearings, or the ones in Borg & Beck clutch kits are OK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The clutch release bearing is the part I'm pulling the car apart to replace. What I'm wondering is, should I also replace the shuttle/plunger/carrier (22A180) that the bearing attaches to? I'm wondering how much wear is acceptable for the part. Last time I replaced it the old one basically had a crater in it from the ball on the clutch arm

Cheers,
Anto.

I've bought one new one in 40 years...!
Look inside, it there's a ball shaped groove worn in the middle, find another, but they don't wear as bad as the clutch arm does. Grease it up well on assembly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ahem, the reason my last one wore so much was I forgot the grease.... gimme a break I was in a hurry! I greased it good this time, so it should be fine. I did find a few spares last night that seem in good condition, so I might use one of those - that way I can save time by getting the bearing put on the shuttle before I take the spanner to my car.

Cheers,
Anto.

Quick Question: is any DOT4 brake fluid ok for brakes and clutches?

I want to bleed my clutch and brakes this weekend and clean out the whole system...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K