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 Post subject: Japanese Clutches
PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 9:19 pm 
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1360cc
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I was reading an article by Paul Gulson where he pans the Borg and Beck and recommends a Japanese clutch with a "spoked" centre. Ring any bells? Wheredayagetem?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 9:25 pm 
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probly a 4 puck clutch like whatthey run on the ricers
makka

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 9:29 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Over my Head and Will I get one with my 1275 A+ coming from japan :?:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 9:47 pm 
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Only spoked centre ones I've seen/used were all Taiwanese crap, facings like Kellogg's packets, piss-weak diaphragms... :x

I'll stick to B&B thanks... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 10:04 pm 
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B&B :?: :oops:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 10:07 pm 
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Borg & Beck (original equip) made in UK... :wink:

<edit> and they come with a decent RHP release bearing.. not a POS asian made one. Last one of these lasted 3 weeks, a personal record. :cry:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 10:49 pm 
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So what is the best one DR and what sould we look 4. I would normal say a light and Balance with the same backing plate

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 10:58 pm 
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Mick, you arent talking about a verto clutch are you? they were fitted to jap minis.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 8:01 am 
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gafmo wrote:
So what is the best one DR and what sould we look 4. I would normal say a light and Balance with the same backing plate


If you want to lighten and balance the flywheel & backplate, best time to balance it is with the new diaphragm. You don't really need your crank- Russell Eng and most others have a balanced crank sitting there they use to balance yours bits.

Whatever you do, don't lighten a flywheel and not balance it. They are cast iron, which has variable density- it WILL be out of balance after lightening.

With backplates, the best one to lighten is the original S one- marked 22G270. These are SG iron- all the others are grey cast iron and can go BANG at high revs if you overdo the lightening bit. I really don't like weakening these. See Vizard's HTMYM book...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Who me???
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 9:34 pm 
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Christoph wrote:
Mick, you arent talking about a verto clutch are you? they were fitted to jap minis.


Hey Chris, I ain't sayin nuttin!!

Its a quote from Paul Gulson - he may mean verto but ity could mean sumthin else????

OK Doc, what colour/spot do recommend as the all time best Mini Clutch??

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 10:21 pm 
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Excelent Question..Over 2 u Dr

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2004 10:43 pm 
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Blue spot. Cooper S stock. Unless your engine's got real serious mumbo, and can slip a blue- then you go get the orange spot rally one..
My 1310 still gets by with a blue spot one, as do a few 1380s I know of..
:wink:

Prefer Bork & Beck brand, or Unipart. I think Delphi (made in EEC) is OK too, so I've been told. Not asian made junk...!
I buy mine from Karcraft.

<edit> This is for ROAD use....
Racers might want a sintered paddle clutch plate or a bonded/rivetted rally plate. Overkill for the street, IMO.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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