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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 10:59 am 
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Sorry guys, this has probably been asked before and its basic stuff I am sure, but i need info on the following:

I have my motor still bolted into my front subframe, which is out of the car. I need to separate the motor from the subframe, so I can clean up the subframe. I have detached the motor from the subframe, but cant lift it out till the shafts are removed. Do the shafts just pull out of the box? or is there something to undo first? Also, in order to remove the shafts I need to undo the ball joint(s). Do I need to use a ball joint splitter? or can i get them out without one? I know with tie rods you can hit the surround with a hammer and they pop out, but this aint working with these ball joints.

I am keen to get this done this week, as the painting is finished and the rear subframe will be coated in the next few days. Hopefully I can have JAM rolling again in a few weeks!

Cheers,

Anton.


Last edited by J_A_M on Wed Aug 11, 2004 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 12:35 pm 
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Oh FUN!!! this is what I was doing for 4 weeks on end without success until makka enlightenned me with the use of a ball joint splitter and a BFH...

BFH method: HIGHLY not recommended... it doesn't work most of the time and you really stuff up the screw threads. Read carefully: I HIGHLY recommend NOT doing this method! It cost me new steering tie rod ends cause the threads were FUBAR. (Could have been alot worse...)

Scissor type splitters: If using properly leverage on the top arm this method could work. Buy a good scissor type splitter (Expensive) and be careful... if you start screwing the scissors and it doesn't pop after a few heavy turns then it aint going to pop! you'll end up breaking the splitter tool (I did this twice! believe me!)

Fork type ball joint splitter and BFH: this method works a treat and the forks are cheap! $25 at any autobarn or autopro place (if they have them in stock, call first). Lever it correctly like above and bang away. The only thing and BIG thing you got to be careful about is to not dammage the balls themselves with the splitter. Do it with the dust protector on the ball joint or wrap the fork up in several layers of rags etc. But this method works best (couple of bangs and it's out)

It might be easier to split the bottom ball joint first before the top one... not sure but that's how we did it.

Is it a pot joint (clubby) shaft? if so you can either cut the pot joint boots off and pull out the shaft and catch the balls as they drop (6 in all) or drain the engine oil and use a pot joint remover tool (expensive) or some say you can use a tyre lever... either way it's too hard and detroying the boot is much easier... If any other type of joint like universal joint etc, then can't help you... :oops:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 2:33 pm 
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Cheers Chong. Good info. I didn't know what to do with the shafts....shame you have to butcher the boots to get em out.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 2:49 pm 
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the boots were already stuffed
i'm able to do it later this arvo after the fella picks up the shell anton
makka

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 2:54 pm 
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huh? how do you know the boots were stuffed? you havent seen it :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:27 pm 
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the ones on chongs car were
makka

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:41 pm 
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how many cans for some help makka?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:44 pm 
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2 i should think

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:47 pm 
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They come in 4 packs don't they? One of those coming your way for some help mate! I'll pm you my numba.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:51 pm 
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no worries
makka

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:55 pm 
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'kn champ 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 4:48 pm 
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Seriously even if the boots weren't stuffed it'd replace them anyway... they could be over 20+ yrs old and if they do eventually give way in a few years it aint exactly a walk in the park to replace them once the car is assembled. Now that everything is apart, you may as well replace cheap rubber and plastic bits.

And new boots + CV grease is dirt cheap. I got metal clips from a CV place in grandville, $0.50c per clip. CV grease was $1 a tube (1 tube for 2 joints). I think it's worth doing.

Besides new boots and shiny clips look good :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 4:50 pm 
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PS. I don't mind helping you out either, let me know if you need help.

Ask makka, I got this kick butt CV boot tie tool that makes life worth living when putting on the metal ties! :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 5:02 pm 
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chong i found one :)
at repco
makka

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 7:27 pm 
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Sweet isn't it?!? I used it another 4-5 times and twice while on my back under the car and it's f&^*kn worth it's weight in gold!

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